Mark Bittman's Kitchen Express Part 9

Pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to one-quarter-inch thickness; dredge them first in a beaten egg and then in panko breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil; cook the chicken on both sides until golden and just done, about four minutes total. Wipe the pan clean and soften some minced garlic for a minute in some more oil or b.u.t.ter; add half a cup of grapefruit juice and a tablespoon or so of honey. Season with salt and pepper and reduce until syrupy. Serve the chicken generously drizzled with the sauce and garnished with fresh grapefruit slices.

Pan-Fried Herbed Chicken Fresh herbs are the key here.

In a food processor, combine a small onion, two cloves of garlic, a tablespoon each of tarragon and sage, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoon of tahini or peanut b.u.t.ter, and a quarter cup of olive oil; puree until smooth. Rub the pureed mixture over boneless, skinless chicken pounded to half-inch thickness; dredge in flour. Fry the chicken in hot olive oil for about four minutes on each side, until well browned and cooked through. Serve over a mixed green salad with fresh lemon wedges on the side.

Chicken with Green Olives Good-quality European olives (think Greek or Spanish) are what you want here.

Pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to one-quarter-inch thickness. Heat a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter or olive oil in a skillet and sear the chicken on both sides, about a minute per side; remove and set aside. Add to the pan half a diced onion, a teaspoon of minced or grated ginger, some minced garlic, and a half teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, c.u.min, and paprika. Cook until the onion softens, about three minutes. Add a half cup of chicken stock to the pan and bring to a boil; reduce to a simmer and return the chicken to the pan along with a handful of green olives, pitted and chopped. Continue cooking until the chicken is done, about two more minutes. Serve the chicken topped with the olives and drizzled with the sauce.

Chicken with Almonds and Spinach A microwave comes in handy here to steam the spinach and save dirtying an extra pan.

Wash and chop a bunch of spinach and steam it; set aside. Pound chicken cutlets to about one-quarter-inch thickness; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter over medium-high heat and sear the chicken on each side until golden brown, about a minute per side. Add a couple of large minced cloves of garlic and arrange the steamed spinach and a handful of chopped almonds around the chicken, drizzling with more olive oil if you like; cover and cook for another minute or so until the chicken is done and everything is warmed through.

Lemon Parmesan Chicken Utterly simple yet sublime.

In a bowl, combine the grated rind from a large lemon, a cup of breadcrumbs (homemade are ideal), about a quarter cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, chopped fresh parsley, and some salt and pepper. Pound chicken cutlets to about a quarter-inch thickness; dredge in a beaten egg and the breadcrumb mixture. Cook the crusted cutlets in a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter or olive oil over medium-high heat until golden on both sides and cooked through. Serve with lemon slices.

Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce Homemade peanut sauce takes less than five minutes to make.

Pound chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s to half-inch thickness and slice them into four-inch pieces. In a bowl, combine the juice from one lime with a smashed clove of garlic; add the chicken and let it marinate for five minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together a half cup of peanut b.u.t.ter, a couple of tablespoons of freshly squeezed lime juice, a splash of soy sauce, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, a teaspoon of brown sugar, and enough chicken broth or water to make a smooth sauce; adjust the seasoning. Set aside most of the sauce for dipping and smear the rest on the chicken pieces with a little salt and pepper, thread onto skewers, and grill for two minutes on each side or until cooked through. Serve with the reserved peanut sauce and lime wedges.

Chicken with Coconut and Lime You might thread the chicken onto skewers, then serve the coconut-lime mixture as a dipping sauce.

Heat the broiler. Cut boneless, skinless chicken into four-inch pieces and toss with the juice of a lime. Heat a can of coconut milk along with a pinch of cayenne, the zest of two limes, and the juice of the other lime. Broil the chicken for about six minutes, turning once, until browned and cooked through. Add about a teaspoon of fish sauce to the coconut milk and season with salt and pepper. Serve the sauce over the chicken and top with chopped scallions and sprinkled with freshly chopped cilantro.

Moroccan Spiced Chicken with Yogurt Sauce A bed of couscous completes this Moroccan-inspired meal.

Heat the broiler or a grill pan. Rub thin chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with a mixture of ground c.u.min, coriander, cayenne, cinnamon, salt, and pepper. Cook the chicken until nicely browned and done, turning once, six to eight minutes total. Mix a cup or so of plain yogurt with a couple of tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice, some chopped fresh mint, and salt to taste. Serve the spice-rubbed chicken with the yogurt sauce and top with more mint and a slice of lemon.

Vietnamese Caramelized Grilled Pork This caramel sauce does wonders for shrimp as well; just thread the shrimp on skewers, drizzle with the sauce, and grill.

Pound boneless pork chops to quarter-inch thickness and heat the grill or broiler. In a small, heavy saucepan, combine half a cup of sugar with two tablespoons of water and stir with some grated ginger to make a paste; cook, undisturbed, over medium heat until it turns golden. Add a couple of finely diced shallots, a tablespoon each fresh lime juice and fish sauce, and a pinch of salt (at this point the caramel will harden); continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the caramel dissolves and the shallots are soft, about two minutes. Put the pork on the grill and brush with sauce, turning frequently until the chops are just cooked through.

Beef and Corn Tacos Unless corn is already in season, this is a good time to go with frozen.

Cook a chopped onion and a diced jalapeno pepper for a couple of minutes, until the onion starts to soften. Add a teaspoon each of chili powder and c.u.min (or more to taste) and cook for another 30 seconds. Add a pound or so of ground beef to the pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cook through, about four minutes. Meanwhile, chop a tomato and an avocado; grate a cup or so of Jack or cheddar cheese. Add a few handfuls of corn to the meat mixture and continue to cook. Warm corn or flour tortillas and serve by wrapping some of the beef-corn mixture and the other fresh ingredients in each tortilla. Garnish with fresh cilantro and sour cream.

Broiled Steak with Fennel and Shallots Fennel fronds make a lovely garnish.

Heat the broiler. Trim and slice a fennel bulb into about six wedges (save the fronds for later) and a few shallots into halves or wedges; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Put the vegetables on one side of a broiler-safe pan; sprinkle one or two three-quarter-inch-thick boneless rib eye steaks with salt and pepper and put them on the other side of the pan. Broil for six to eight minutes, turning the steaks and vegetables halfway through cooking. Serve the steaks topped with the vegetables.

Carne Cruda A rare treat (OK, pun intended).

Cut a pound of filet mignon into quarter-inch cubes and combine in a bowl with a handful each of arugula and parsley, about one-quarter cup of olive oil, and a few tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and more lemon juice if needed. Serve with crusty bread.

Steak with b.u.t.ter and Ginger Use more ginger here if you like.

Sprinkle one or two three-quarter-inch-thick boneless rib eyes with salt and pepper and sear the steaks in a hot skillet for about two minutes on each side; set aside. Add a couple of tablespoons of b.u.t.ter to the pan to melt; add about a tablespoon of fresh minced or grated ginger, a splash of soy sauce, and a bit of water (to keep the soy from burning); cook for about 30 seconds. Return the steaks to the pan and cook for another few minutes on each side, until done the way you like. Spoon the ginger sauce over the meat, and garnish with fresh cilantro.

Stuffed Burgers Try this with some sauteed mushrooms on top.

Season a pound or so of ground beef with a good pinch of dill (a handful if it's fresh), salt, and pepper; form the meat into patties (two patties per burger, so make them on the thin side). Put a slice of tomato and some cheese (Gruyere, cheddar, blue, whatever) on one patty and then use a second patty to cover the stuffing-making a sandwich of the patties. Pinch the sides of the burgers together to seal them. Cook the burgers on a hot grill, on a grill pan, or under the broiler, turning them once, until done.

Lamb Kibbe Pine nuts and breadcrumbs replace bulgur for a nice twist on this Middle Easternstyle dish.

In a food processor, blend a handful of toasted pine nuts, about a cup of breadcrumbs, a half teaspoon of allspice, a teaspoon of c.u.min, and half a diced onion until everything reaches an even, grainy consistency. Combine this mixture in a bowl with about a pound of ground lamb and a couple of tablespoons of olive oil; form into golf-ball-size b.a.l.l.s and flatten a bit into patties. Fry each patty for about three minutes per side, or until crisp and cooked through. Serve with pita bread, shredded lettuce, plain yogurt, and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Lamb "Gyro"

Great using chicken, too.

Cut lamb (preferably shoulder; leg is OK) into two-inch chunks. In a large bowl, combine a teaspoon each dried thyme, and ground c.u.min and coriander; a tablespoon of minced garlic; and a pinch of red chile flakes. Add the lamb and toss to coat well. Sear the lamb pieces in olive oil until browned on all sides. In a separate pan, cook a sliced onion and a sliced red pepper in olive oil, until just soft. Serve the lamb with the onions and pepper in a pita (or wrapped in fresh lavash bread) with a dash of hot sauce, topped with plain yogurt.

Spring Lamb Israeli couscous takes longer to cook but makes a nice change if you have the time.

Heat the broiler. Puree together a handful each of fresh mint and basil, a clove of garlic, a teaspoon of c.u.min, a pinch of cinnamon, and a few tablespoons of olive oil to make a paste. Sprinkle salt and pepper on lamb steaks (from leg or shoulder), pound to half-inch thickness, and coat with the herb paste. Broil the steaks, turning once, until done, about eight minutes. In the meantime, mix a cup of plain yogurt with half a diced red onion and chopped cuc.u.mber. Serve the lamb over couscous; top with the yogurt mixture.

Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets Cla.s.sic, and perfect served with greens cooked in lots of garlic.

Season veal cutlets with salt and pepper; dredge the cutlets in flour, beaten egg, and breadcrumbs. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan and fry the cutlets over high heat, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about three minutes. Serve with lemon wedges and chopped parsley.

Orzo "Risotto" with Chives Use this technique for any herb or vegetable.

Heat a mixture of b.u.t.ter and olive oil until foamy; stir in a handful or two of chopped chives and some salt and pepper and cook until the herbs are softened and fragrant. Now stir in a pound of orzo and keep cooking and stirring until it begins to get translucent. Stir in chicken stock (or water), a ladleful at a time, waiting for the pan to get almost dry before adding another. Repeat until the pasta is al dente and most of the liquid is absorbed, about eight minutes. Add b.u.t.ter, grated Parmesan cheese, and enough stock to reach the consistency you like. Serve, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

Pasta with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs Fresh breadcrumbs (as usual) are superior to store-bought, with more flavor and better texture.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a pan and lightly toast a cup or so of breadcrumbs until just golden; set aside. Heat a bit more oil and add a pinch of red chile flakes and a few drained, chopped anchovies (the kind marinated in oil and packed in gla.s.s) and cook for a minute or so, smas.h.i.+ng up the anchovies with a fork as they cook. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the anchovy mix and toss, adding pasta water as needed to moisten the mixture into a sauce. Add the toasted breadcrumbs and-optionally-freshly grated Parmesan.

Pasta with Moroccan Tapenade European tuna, packed in oil, is essential here.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, in a food processor, combine a couple of handfuls of pitted green olives, a few tablespoons of capers, a drained can of tuna, a couple of cloves of garlic, a teaspoon c.u.min, freshly ground black pepper to taste, and olive oil as necessary to get a coa.r.s.e paste. Put the tapenade in a bowl; drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the tapenade, tossing to coat; add pasta water or olive oil as needed to make a sauce.

Pasta Carbonara Pancetta, guanciale, or bacon will do the trick equally well here.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, cut about a quarter pound of pancetta into small pieces and fry in a bit of olive oil until golden. In a bowl large enough to hold the pasta, beat together three eggs, about a half cup of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and the meat. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the pasta quickly with the egg mixture to combine (the heat from the pasta will cook the eggs); add a few tablespoons of pasta water if needed to moisten. Season with salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper; garnish with chopped parsley and more Parmesan to taste.

Pasta with Lemon Sauce You might toss in a few shrimp or scallops, or add a couple handfuls of steamed asparagus tips or peas.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, in a large pan, combine a half stick of b.u.t.ter, a half cup of cream, and a quarter cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice. When the b.u.t.ter melts, remove the pan from the heat and set aside. Drain the pasta and add it to the reserved lemon sauce and toss. Add a few teaspoons of grated lemon zest and freshly grated Parmesan. Garnish with chopped parsley or chives and serve.

Arugula and Prosciutto Pasta Other greens can also be used here as long as they're tender enough to wilt quickly when mixed with the pasta.

Boil and salt water for pasta, and cook it. Meanwhile, sear a few pieces of prosciutto, chopped, until crisp, about two minutes. In a large bowl, mix together about one-half cup crumbled goat cheese, two cups of chopped arugula, and a few tablespoons of olive oil. Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water. Add the hot pasta to the bowl, wilting the arugula and coating the noodles with the cheese and oil; add pasta water as needed to moisten. Season with salt and pepper and crumble the prosciutto over the top of the pasta to serve.

Rice Noodles with Cilantro Pesto A little nod to fusion cuisine.

Soak rice vermicelli in boiling water to cover. In a food processor, puree two large handfuls of cilantro, the juice of a lime, a few tablespoons of olive oil, a slice of soft b.u.t.ter, salt, and pepper. Toast a handful of peanuts in a skillet lightly until fragrant and just golden. Drain the noodles and toss with the cilantro pesto; garnish with the toasted nuts.

Shrimp Pad Thai Use leftover chicken instead of shrimp if you like; just toss it in with the noodles at the end.

Boil and salt water for pasta and cook a pound of wide rice noodles (they take only a couple of minutes); drain, rinse, and set aside in a bowl of cold water. Dice a couple of green onions and a clove of garlic. In a small bowl, combine a tablespoon of sugar, a few tablespoons of fish sauce, a pinch or two of red chile flakes, and a couple of tablespoons of sesame oil. In a tablespoon or two of vegetable oil, cook a handful of shrimp until just cooked; set aside. Add a bit more oil to the pan and scramble two eggs. Add the shrimp, drained noodles, garlic, onions, a handful of bean sprouts, and the sugar mixture to the pan and cook until warmed through. Sprinkle with chopped peanuts and serve.

Udon Noodles with Seafood and Soy-Lemon Sauce Udon and soba both work equally well here.

Cook the udon noodles; drain, saving some of the cooking water. Cook about a pound of peeled shrimp or firm white fish in a little sesame oil until just opaque. Stir in about one-quarter cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce, a tablespoon grated ginger, and a minced garlic clove. Add the noodles and enough cooking liquid to make a sauce. Sprinkle the noodles with a pinch of red chile flakes and fresh cilantro.

Cheesy Semolina with Asparagus Like polenta, only faster.

Bring two cups salted water to a boil with one-half cup milk. Meanwhile, thinly slice a bunch of asparagus spears on the diagonal. When the water boils, whisk in one cup semolina and a pat of b.u.t.ter, cooking and stirring for three minutes; then add the asparagus and some grated Parmesan. Cover and set aside for a few minutes, until the vegetables are crisp-tender. Give a good stir and serve, garnished with more cheese, some chopped mint, and lots of freshly ground black pepper.

Herbed Fresh Cheese Patties Lovely over a bed of greens.

Dice half an onion and cook it in a tablespoon or so of olive oil until just soft. Using doubled cheesecloth, squeeze all the moisture out of two cups of ricotta or cottage cheese; combine the cheese, the onion, a beaten egg, half a cup of breadcrumbs, and a handful of chopped mixed herbs (chervil, basil, dill, and mint, or any combination you like), salt, and pepper in a bowl. Form the mixture into small patties-about three inches wide-and fry over medium-high heat in the same skillet you used for the onion until brown, turning once and adding more olive oil if needed, about six minutes total.

Deconstructed Raspberry Souffles Heat the oven to 400F. Whip four egg whites and one teaspoon lemon zest until stiff peaks form. Toss two cups of fresh raspberries with two tablespoons brown sugar. Spoon raspberries into individual ramekins, top with a scoop of the whipped egg white, and sprinkle each with a teaspoon of slivered almonds if you like. Bake until tops are just golden, about eight minutes.

Rose Water Whipped Cream with Honeydew Just a little rose water works wonders.

Whip a cup of heavy cream with a few drops of rose water and a tablespoon of honey until thick. Cut a honeydew melon in half, scoop out the seeds, and slice into individual servings; serve each slice of melon with a dollop of the flavored whipped cream on top.

Grilled Angel Food Cake with Fruit Salsa Obviously, homemade angel food is best, but store-bought can be good enough here.

Mix a cup of pitted halved cherries, a chopped mango, and two chopped peaches in a bowl with a quarter cup of sugar, a half teaspoon of cinnamon, juice from half a lemon, and the zest of the lemon. Smear slices of angel food cake with a little soft b.u.t.ter and grill each slice for about three minutes per side. Serve the fruit salsa over the angel food cake; garnish with chopped mint.

Banana Ginger Granita This takes only a couple of minutes to make, but you do have to remember to freeze bananas in advance.

Put two fresh ripe frozen bananas, cut into two-inch pieces, in a food processor. Add two tablespoons of ginger ale or ginger beer and one-quarter cup crushed ice; pulse the mixture until smooth and serve, garnished with a grating of fresh ginger on top.

Macerated Strawberries with Mascarpone Any orange-flavored liqueur works here.

In a bowl, mix together a quart of hulled, quartered strawberries, a couple of tablespoons of sugar, one-quarter cup Cointreau, freshly squeezed lemon juice, and lemon zest; let sit for five minutes or so. Serve in small bowls topped with a bit of mascarpone and good biscotti or any other crunchy cookie.

Broiled Bananas Keep an eye on these as they cook; they can go quickly from golden to overdone.

Heat the broiler and lightly b.u.t.ter a baking dish. Peel four bananas, cut them in half lengthwise, and arrange them on the dish. Dot the bananas with b.u.t.ter and sprinkle with brown sugar; broil about six inches from the flame until lightly browned, about five minutes. Serve hot, sprinkled with lemon or lime juice.

Bittersweet Chocolate Crepes with Smashed Fruit Crepes should be set and cooked through, but not crisp; keep in mind that the first crepe almost never works.

In a blender, mix together one cup of flour, one-half cup cocoa powder, two eggs, one and one-half cups milk, one teaspoon vanilla extract, two tablespoons sugar, and two tablespoons melted b.u.t.ter; sc.r.a.pe down the sides until the mixture is smooth. Warm a bit of b.u.t.ter in a nonstick pan and ladle a thin coating of batter into the pan; swirl it around so it forms a thin layer on the bottom of the pan. Cook about 15 seconds or until the top looks dry; flip and cook 15 to 30 seconds more; repeat. Top with fresh smashed strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, or bananas.

Chocolate Mousse For a fruit mousse, subst.i.tute four ounces of pureed raspberries for the melted chocolate.

In a pan or in the microwave on low, melt two tablespoons of b.u.t.ter with four ounces of bittersweet or semisweet chocolate; set aside. Beat a cup of heavy cream with two tablespoons of sugar and a half teaspoon of vanilla until soft peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the chocolate gently and stir until just combined; spoon the mousse into dishes, grate some chocolate on top if you like, and serve.

101.

Chocolate Hot Toddy Serve with biscotti.

For each serving, melt one or two squares of semisweet chocolate in a cup and a half of milk, being sure not to bring the milk to a boil. Once the chocolate is melted, pour the milk into mugs and add a bit of dark rum or whiskey. Whipped cream is optional.

KITCHEN EXPRESS MENUS MENUS.

Here are year-round ideas to help you use this book for every type of occasion. Obviously, you won't be able to pull together whole menus in 20 minutes, but you'll be amazed at how fast these meals come to the table, especially since many dishes can be made ahead and quickly reheated or served chilled or at room temperature.

WEEKNIGHT DINNER PARTY.

SUMMER.

FALL.

WINTER.

SPRING.

Gazpacho In-Sh.e.l.l Clam Chowder White Salad Snap Peas with Walnuts and Roquefort A Very Good Burger

Mini Cannelloni

Grilled Lamb Steak and White Bean Mash Garlic bread Cajun-Style Salmon a.s.sorted buns and tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs bar

Lemon Mascarpone Mousse White rice Blueberry Ricotta Cheesecakes Broiled Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts

Green salad

Dessert French Toast

Grilled Angel Food Cake with Fruit Salsa