Paris as It Was and as It Is Part 19

"Mr. B---- had made it a rule to gratify his five senses to the highest degree of enjoyment of which they were susceptible. An exquisite table, perfumed apartments, the charms of music and painting; in a word, every thing most enchanting that nature, a.s.sisted by art, could produce, successively flattered his sight, his taste, his smell, his hearing, and his feeling.

"In a superb saloon, whither he conducted me," says this gentleman, "were six young beauties, dressed in an extraordinary manner, whose persons, at first sight, did not appear unknown to me: it struck me that I had seen their faces more than once, and I was accordingly going to address them, when Mr. B----, smiling at my mistake, explained to me the cause of it." "I have, in my amours," said he, "a particular fancy. The choicest beauty of Circa.s.sia would have ho merit in my eyes, did she not resemble the portrait of some woman, celebrated in past ages: and while lovers set great value on a miniature which faithfully exhibits the features of their mistress, I esteem mine only in proportion to their resemblance to ancient portraits.

"Conformably to this idea," continued Mr. B----, "I have caused the intendant of my pleasures to travel all over Europe, with select portraits, or engravings, copied from the originals. He has succeeded in his researches, as you see, since you have conceived that you recognized these ladies on whom you have never before set your eyes; but whose likenesses you may, undoubtedly, have met with. Their dress must have contributed to your mistake: they all wear the attire of the personage they represent; for I wish their whole person to be picturesque. By these means, I have travelled back several centuries, and am in possession of beauties whom time had placed at a great distance."

"Supper was served up. Mr. B---- seated himself between Mary, queen of Scots, and Anne Bullein. I placed myself opposite to him,"

concludes the gentleman, "having beside me Ninon de l'Enclos, and Gabrielle d'Estrees. We also had the company of the fair Rosamond and Nell Gwynn; but at the head of the table was a vacant elbow-chair, surmounted by a canopy, and destined for Cleopatra, who was coming from Egypt, and of whose arrival Mr. B---- was in hourly expectation."

LETTER XXI.

_Paris, November 21, 1801._

Often as we have heard of the extraordinary number of places of public entertainment in Paris, few, if any, persons in England have an idea of its being so considerable as it is, even at the present moment. But, in 1799, at the very time when we were told over and over again in Parliament, that France was unable to raise the necessary supplies for carrying on the war, and would, as a matter of course, be compelled not only to relinquish her further projects of aggrandis.e.m.e.nt, but to return to her ancient territorial limits; at that critical period, there existed in Paris, and its environs, no less than seventy

PUBLIC PLACES OF VARIOUS DESCRIPTIONS.

Under the old _regime_, nothing like this number was ever known. Such an almost incredible variety of amus.e.m.e.nts is really a phenomenon, in the midst of a war, unexampled in its consumption of blood and treasure, It proves that, whatever may have been the public distress, there was at least a great _show_ of private opulence. Indeed I have been informed that, at the period alluded to, a spirit of indifference, prodigality, and dissipation, seemed to pervade every cla.s.s of society. Whether placed at the bottom or the top of Fortune's wheel, a thirst of gain and want of economy were alike conspicuous among all ranks of people. Those who strained every nerve to obtain riches, squandered them with equal profusion.

No human beings on earth can be more fond of diversion than the Parisians. Like the Romans of old, they are content if they have but _panem et circenses_, which a Frenchman would render by _spectacles et de quoi manger_. However divided its inhabitants may be on political subjects, on the score of amus.e.m.e.nt at least the Republic is one and indivisible. In times of the greatest scarcity, many a person went dinnerless to the theatre, eating whatever sc.r.a.p he could procure, and consoling himself by the idea of being amused for the evening, and at the same time saving at home the expense of fire and candle.

The following list of public places, which I have transcribed for your satisfaction, was communicated to me by a person of veracity; and, as far as it goes, its correctness has been confirmed by my own observation. Although it falls short of the number existing here two years ago, it will enable you to judge of the ardour still prevalent among the Parisians, for "running at the ring of pleasure." Few of these places are shut up, except for the winter; and new ones succeed almost daily to those which are finally closed. However, for the sake of perspicuity, I shall annex the letter S to such as are intended chiefly for summer amus.e.m.e.nt.

1. _Theatre des Arts, Rue de la Loi_.

2. _------- Francais, Rue de la Loi._

3. _------- Feydeau, Rue Feydeau._

4. _------- Louvois, Rue de Louvois._

5. _------- Favart,_ now _Opera Buffa._

6. _------- de la Porte St. Martin._

7. _------- de la Societe Olympique_ (late _Opera Buffa.)_

8. _------- du Vaudeville, Rue de Chartres._

9. _------- Montansier, Palais du Tribunat._

10. _------- de l'Ambigu Comique, Boulevard du Temple._

11. _------- de la Gaiete, Boulevard du Temple._

12. _------- des Jeunes Artistes, Boulevard St. Martin._

13. _------- des Jeunes Eleves, Rue de Thionville._

14. _------- des Dela.s.s.e.m.e.ns Comiques, Boulevard du Temple._

15. _------- sans Pretension, Boulevard du Temple._

16. _------- du Marais, Rue Culture Ste. Catherine._

17. _------- de la Cite, vis-a-vis le Palais de Justice._

18. _------- des Victoires, Rue du Bacq._

19. _------- de Moliere, Rue St. Martin._

20. _------- de l'Estrapade._

21. _------- de Mareux, Rue St. Antoine._

22. _------- des Aveugles, Rue St. Denis._

23. _------- de la Rue St. Jean de Beauvais._

24. _Bal masque de l'Opera, Rue de la Loi._

25. _---------- de l'Opera Buffa, Rue de la Victoire._

26. _Bal du Sallon des etrangers, Rue Grange Bateliere._

27. _--- de l'Hotel de Salm, Rue de Lille, Faubourg St. Germain._

28. _--- de la Rue Michaudiere._

29. _Soirees amusantes de l'Hotel Longueville, Place du Carrousel._

30. _Veillees de la Cite, vis-a-vis le Palais de Justice._

31. _Phantasmagorie de Robertson, Cour des Capucines._

32. _Concert de Feydeau._

33. _Ranelagh au bois de Boulogne._

34. _Tivoli, Rue de Clichy_, S.

35. _Frascati, Rue de la Loi_, S.

36. _Idalie_, S.

37. _Hameau de Chantilly, aux Champs elysees._