The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 4

No Lady can have a better Temper or Behaviour than the Baroness _de Bulau_, Daughter-in-law to the Marshal, and Daughter to the late Countess of _Platen_: her Husband is a worthy Gentleman, and keeps a very good House.

The Count _de Platen_, hereditary Post-Master-General, is one of the richest Subjects in the Electorate, and one that spends the most Money. A Foreigner will always have cause to speak well of M. _de Rheden_, Captain of the Castle, and M. _de Wagenheim_, the great Cup-Bearer. Messieurs _d'Ilten_ live splendidly; and both the Brothers, the eldest of whom is a Colonel of the Guards, are amiable and infinitely polite. If ever you come hither, you will certainly have reason to be fond of their Company.

The Situation of _Hanover_ is very agreeable; and in its Neighbourhood are several pretty Seats. Among these _Herenhausen_ (the House of the _Lord_, or the _Master_) is a Castle which was built by Order of the Elector _Ernest-Augustus_, the King's Grandfather. This House, to which a strait Walk leads, bears no proportion to the Magnificence of its Gardens, which are undeniably some of the finest in all _Europe_; being particularly adorn'd with Water-Works that throw the Water up much higher than the famous Fountain at _St. Cloud_, which was always look'd upon as the most considerable of the kind[35].

Between _Hanover_ and _Herenhausen_, there are two fine Seats; of which, one is call'd _Fantasie_, i. e. _the Whim_; and the other, _Monbrillant_, or, _Mount-Pleasant_. They were built by two Sisters-in-law, _viz._ Madame _de Kilmanseck_, (who after her Husband's Death, was by King _George_ I.

created Countess of _Arlington_) and the Countess of _Platen_. These two Houses are a Proof of the good Taste of those Ladies, who were really an Honour to _Germany_, for their Beauty, good Sense, Manners, and Genius.

They both died in their Prime, a little time after one another; my Lady _Arlington_ in _England_, and the Countess of _Platen_ at _Hanover_, to which she was not only an Ornament, but a l.u.s.tre.

The Dominions of _Hanover_ are so considerable, that I have been a.s.sured the Revenues are no less than six Millions of Crowns _per An._ Whether this be true, I do not know; but I tell you what I was told myself.

_Hamelen_ upon the _Weser_ is the only Town that can be reckoned a Place of Defence. _Hanover_, _Zell_, and _Lunenbourg_, have Ramparts; _Harbourg_, a Castle, or Citadel; but all so inconsiderable, that they are not worth mentioning.

There are few Sovereigns whose Finances are in so good a Condition as this Elector's; which has been the happy Produce of three succeeding Reigns; and the good conomy wherewith they were managed by the three last Princes of the Electoral Family, has contributed infinitely to the Figure it makes at this time. Mean-while, notwithstanding these Regulations, the People were never oppress'd, and the Princes always lived with a Splendor suitable to their Grandeur. _Ernest-Augustus_ obtained the Electoral Dignity, not without making great Presents to the Court of _Vienna_, at a time too when his Power was limited to the Dutchy of _Hanover_, and the Bishop.r.i.c.k of _Osnabrug_. Tho' this Prince had a numerous Family to provide for, he lived with Splendor, was fond of Magnificence and Pleasures, gallant, generous, and liberal; and when he died, he left no Debts to pay, and his Finances were in a good State.

GEORGE I. his Son and Successor kept up a considerable Body of Troops, and had a very splendid Court. As his Acquisitions were great, he distributed his Favours where-ever he was inform'd there was a Necessity; and when he came to the Throne, he made no Reform in this Court; so that their not seeing him was the only Token of his Absence. At his Death, he left immense Sums in his Treasury, and so glorious a Character, that his Subjects still bless the Memory of his Reign.

GEORGE II. his Son, and the Heir of his Crown, his Dominions, and Virtues, behaves in the very same manner. While he lives and acts like a King, he neither gives, on the one hand, into the Extravagance of vain Pomp and Pageantry, nor on the other, into that sordid Thriftiness which debases Royal Majesty, and extinguishes the Love of Subjects. He acc.u.mulates Treasure without oppressing his People, who love him, and offer up their Prayers for him, as I do for your Preservation; and

_Am_, &c.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER IV.

_SIR_, _Blanckenbourg, July 30, 1729._

I was six Hours travelling from _Hanover_ to BRUNSWIC, the Capital of the Dutchy of that Name, which is a very great City, with Houses for the most part of Timber. It was formerly a Free and Imperial City, and one of the _Hanse_-Towns; but falling under the Sovereignty of the Princes of the House of _Brunswic_, they reduced it to a level with the other Towns of their Dominions. It belongs to the Duke of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg Wolfemb.u.t.tle_. The Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ began to fortify it; and his Son _Augustus-William_, the present Duke[36], perfected what remained unfinished at his Father's Death, and made _Brunswic_ a Place which cannot be besieged without a numerous Army: But then on the other hand, it would require such an Army to garison it as the Duke could not furnish without the help of his Neighbours, and which besides, wou'd not perhaps be extraordinary convenient for him to introduce. The said Duke has caused a new Palace to be built, which is large and magnificent, and the Furniture is rich, new, and excellently well chosen. Among the rest, there are very fine Pictures, and a Cabinet full of Curiosities.

The Duke of _Blanckenbourg_, Brother to the Duke of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, has a particular Palace, where he resides in the Fair-time, but it did not appear to me to be a House of any consequence.

The Fairs of _Brunswic_ contribute very much to make it a rich and famous City, there being two held every Year, and a considerable Trade carried on at both.

There is very good Diversion during these Fairs; for then all the Ducal Family is generally at _Brunswic_; to which foreign Princes come often, and there is always a great Concourse of the n.o.bility. The Duke sends every Morning to invite the Quality of both s.e.xes, who at Noon repair to the Palace. The Grand Marshal, for avoiding all Disputes about Precedency, causes the Ladies to be match'd with the Gentlemen by the drawing of Tickets; and sometimes it happens that a Dutchess is at the lower end of the Table, which is served with very great Magnificence and Elegance. When there are too many Guests to sit at one Table, the two Brothers keep each a separate Table at his own Palace. At Night, the Company repairs to the _German_ Opera, which being ended, they pa.s.s into Rooms joining to the Theatre where they play, and sup, and then dance. The Ball is open'd by the Gentleman who happened to draw the first Number in the Morning, and continues till Day-break.

The Ducal Family of _Brunswic-Wolfemb.u.t.tle_ consists now but of two Brothers; the eldest of whom, the Duke[37] _Augustus-William_, has had three Wives, but no Issue. He is married to a Princess of _Holstein-Norbourg_.

These two Princes are so far advanced in Years, that the Duke _Ferdinand-Albert_ of _Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Bevern_, Son-in-law to the Duke of _Blanckenbourg_[38], is looked upon as their presumptive Heir. _Europe_ produces few Princes of more distinguished Merit, who have equal Knowledge, more Learning, and Integrity, or more Valour and Experience in War. He has acquired a n.o.ble Reputation in _Hungary_; and he is not only a Brother-in-law to the Emperor, but one of his favourite Generals, and has a Regiment in his Service[39].

His Family consists of four Sons and three Daughters[40] by his Wife _Antonietta-Amelia_ of _Brunswic-Blanckenbourg_. These are very hopeful young Princes. The eldest, whose Name is _Charles_[41], is of a lovely Make, and has Sense infinitely beyond his Years. The eldest Princess, _Elizabeth-Christina_[42], at twelve Years of Age may pa.s.s for one that is compleatly grown; her Air is n.o.ble and modest; her Features regular; in a word, she is form'd to make that Prince happy who is one day to be her Husband.

The Court of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_ is numerous, and when a.s.sembled does not want for Magnificence.

The Ministers of most Power are the Baron _Stein_[43], and the Count _de Debn_[44]. The former is descended of an ill.u.s.trious Family in _Swabia_: He was in the Service of the Landgrave of _Darmstadt_, and his Envoy at the Dyet of _Ratisbon_, and several Courts, where he made himself considerable by his Eloquence, the Justness of his Sentiments, by the Ease with which he expresses them, and by his Politeness.

The Count _de Dehn_ is a Native of _Mecklemburg_, where he was born of a good Family, and enter'd very young a Page to Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ of _Brunswic-Wolfemb.u.t.tle_. He had the Happiness to please that Prince, but much more his Successor, the Duke _Augustus-William_, who of his Page, made him his Favourite and Minister, heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and match'd him to the Daughter of his Chancellor, who was one of the richest Heiresses in all _Germany_.

The young Minister finding himself rich and powerful, quickly thought the Court of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_ too narrow a Stage for Action. He had chose the Count _de Fleming_, Prime Minister of the King of _Poland_, for a Model.

He saw that this Minister, under pretence of important Negotiations, went to the chief Courts of the Empire to make a Parade of his Riches; and young _Dehn_ long'd with Impatience to imitate him. He procur'd himself to be nominated the Duke's Envoy Extraordinary to _Holland_ and _France_, where he vy'd in every respect with the Amba.s.sadors of the chief Crowns.

In fine, after having staid about eighteen Months at _Paris_, he went away very much lamented by the Merchants and Workmen with whom he had dealings.

He came to _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_ to receive the Applauses of his Master, and to rest himself after the Fatigues he had undergone in his important Negotiations.

As Count _Fleming_ was honoured with the Orders of _Denmark_, _Russia_, and _Poland_, his Rival too thought he could not do without one Ribbon at least; and thinking the Order of _Dannebrock_ the most proper for him, because it was white, he demanded and obtained it of _Frederic_ IV. the King of _Denmark_. When he saw himself thus adorn'd, he procured himself to be sent to _Vienna_. What business he had there, I know not; but he was scarce ever from the Emperor, and in order to be nearer to his Person, he lodged just by the Palace of the _Favorita_. He often relieved the Cares of the Ministry by making some Entertainment or Ball. He had an admirable Genius for Dancing, so that every body thought him the Inventor of Country-Dances. The Emperor gave him the t.i.tle of a Count, with which he returned to his own Court.

When Glory has once fir'd a n.o.ble Soul, nothing can keep it within Bounds.

The Count _de Dehn_ had lost his first Wife, who left him the Heir of three great Estates; and he married again to an amiable Lady, who return'd him Love for Love. Tho' he was dear to his Master, yet he could not resolve to continue at _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, because he had a Taste for nothing but Treaties and Negotiations. He returned a second time, as Envoy Extraordinary to the _States-General_, but did not stay long at the _Hague_; for after having had his publick Audience, wherein he a.s.sured their High-Mightinesses of the sincere Affection of his Master for their Republic, and of his own personal Joy to find himself seated in an Arm-Chair in their a.s.sembly, he went over to _England_ to reside at the Court of his _Britannic_ Majesty. He was admired for his Grandeur, as much in _England_ as elsewhere; but the Air of that Country not agreeing with the Delicacy of his Const.i.tution, he return'd to _Germany_; and, after having made a tour to the chief Courts of the Empire, he is come back to _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, where he stays in expectation that some great Event or other will turn up, that he may be employ'd in some remarkable Emba.s.sy, whereby _Europe_, attentive to every thing that relates to him, may have fresh Proofs of his great Talents.

The Baron _de Hagen_ is Commander in Chief of the Duke's Troops, which actually amount to above 4000 Men, and 'tis said, that his Highness's Revenues exceed two Millions of Crowns. His Subjects are not the worst used of any in _Germany_. 'Tis a good fruitful Country; the Peasants, who are sober and laborious, are as clownish and as stupid as those that herd with the Hogs in _Westphalia_; but they are robust, strong, and good Soldiers.

In _Brunswic_ there is a Catholick Church which is small, but neat. The Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ caus'd it to be built at the time he embraced the Catholick Religion; which he did, after full Conviction, not many Years before his Death.

_Saltzdahl_, a Pleasure-House belonging to the Duke, is a League from _Brunswic_, and from _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_. It was built by Duke _Anthony-Ulric_, one of the most magnificent Princes of his Time, and one who had the most elegant Taste. This House is worthy of nice Observation. It has a great Gallery with a Collection of Pictures in it by the chief Painters, which is not to be met with elsewhere. In one great Cabinet there is very fine Porcellane; and in another, a vast number of Vessels and Urns painted by _Raphael_. In short, the Curious can't want here for Entertainment.

The Road from _Brunswic_ to WOLFEMb.u.t.tLE is as pleasant as most Roads. We cross a little Wood through which there are several Routes cut, and as we come near the Town, several pretty Seats appear in view.

The Town of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_ is not half so big as _Brunswic_, nor is it better built, the Houses being of Timber. The Fortifications seem to me to be in good Repair. The Castle, or Ducal Palace, is ancient, and makes no great Appearance, but 'tis commodious, and has good Lodging-Rooms. That which most deserves the Attention of a Traveller, is the Library, which is one of the best chosen in _Europe_, and contains very scarce Books and Ma.n.u.scripts.

As I had left the Court at _Brunswic_ I did not stay many Hours at _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_, but came to lie here at BLANCKENBOURG, where I have all that Heart can wish for.

The Duke is as affable and as civil a Prince as any in the World. In his Youth he visited the princ.i.p.al Courts of _Europe_, where he contracted a great Politeness, and a solid Taste of Elegancy. He loves the _Belles Lettres_, protects the Arts and Sciences, and looks out for Men of Ability to serve him. He is magnificent, generous, a good Prince, and a kind Master. He was at one and the same time, the Father of an Empress, and the Grandfather of an Emperor. As a Father, he has a considerable Pension from the Emperor of _Germany_; and as a Grandfather, he has been honour'd with the Order of St. _Andrew_ of _Muscovy_, founded by _Peter_ the Great, which is a blue Ribbon, with St. _Andrew_'s Cross appendant to it enamell'd with blue. This Prince is also a Commander of _Suplenbourg_, a Commandery of the Order of St. _John_, annexed to the House of _Brunswic_.

He has had three Daughters by his Wife _Elizabeth-Christina_ of _Oetingen_.

The Dutchess, tho' advanc'd in Years, retains an Air of Grandeur and Majesty which strikes the Beholders, and her Features discover the Marks of that s.h.i.+ning Beauty which she had in her Youth. But what renders this Princess more venerable than even her Birth, is her solid Piety, her just Discernment, her lively Imagination, her n.o.ble and easy manner of expressing herself, and her Principles of Humanity, accompany'd with a Generosity free from all Ostentation.

I had the honour to pay my Duty to her at _Brunswic_, some Years ago, when she receiv'd me with such Tokens of Goodness as rejoic'd my very Heart; and upon all Occasions since, she has been pleas'd to give me fresh Proofs of it. As I can be of no service to this Princess in any Case, nor so happy as to be able to contribute to her Glory, 'tis my Ambition to make every one, and you, Sir, in particular, sensible of the Respect and Attachment with which I am devoted to her, and of the grateful Sense I have of the Benevolence with which she has honour'd me.

The Courtiers of _Blanckenbourg_ are, like their Master, very polite. M.

_de Munchausen_ is the chief of the Duke's Council, and was formerly in the Service of the Duke of _Wolfemb.u.t.tle_. He is a Gentleman of great Learning, Labour, and Vigilance, and has a distinct and n.o.ble Manner of Delivery. He is heartily attach'd to his Master; and the Courtiers seem'd to me to have an Esteem and Affection for him. Men of solid Judgment, and who have been more conversant with this Minister than I, have a.s.sured me that he is one of the greatest Genius's at this present, in _Germany_[45].

M. _de Sporck_ is the Grand Marshal, which Employment he acquits himself in with very great Politeness and Care. He is come of a good Family, his Father being Minister of State, and Director of the Dutchies of _Zell_ and _Lunenbourg_. M. _de Polentz_[46] does the Honours of the Court under him, in quality of Great Cup-Bearer. As he had his Education at Court, he is vastly polite; and Foreigners cannot but be pleas'd with his good Behaviour.

The Duke and Dutchess delight to see Foreigners at their Court, whom they load with Civilities, and will have them always to dine and sup with their Highnesses. After Dinner, they take the Air, or make Visits; and in the Evening there's an a.s.sembly in the Dutchess's Apartment, where they play, then sup, and afterwards every one retires. We have had a Comedy twice or thrice, which is acted by the young People of the Family, who perform their Parts very well; especially in the Tragedies of _Corneille_ and _Racine_, translated into _High-Dutch_.

The Pleasures of the Carnival are more gay, at which time the Duke makes Entertainments: There's a Ball, a Masquerade, and Comedy at Court, every Day; and for the time there's so great a Concourse of Strangers here from the neighbouring Towns, that sometimes 'tis impossible to get a Lodging.

The Town of BLANCKENBOURG is small, and the Houses ill built, and inconvenient. The Duke has done all in his power to engage the Inhabitants to build; he has offer'd them Materials _gratis_, and has moreover endeavour'd to inspire them with a Taste for the Arts; but all without Success.

I never in my whole Life, saw People more indolent and clownish than those of _Blanckenbourg_, and the neighbouring Towns. They are so bigotted to old Customs, that they say, _My Father liv'd so, and so will I; My Father did not do this, nor will I_. I cannot conceive how People, so dull as they are, and so strongly attach'd to the Inst.i.tutions of their Forefathers, came to give into _Luther_'s Reformation.[47]

_Blanckenbourg_ is a petty County, which Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ yielded in his Life-time to his second Son, to make him some sort of Compensation for the Right of Primogeniture, which he had newly introduc'd into his Family, to that Son's prejudice: For the Princes of _Brunswic_ had for a long time been us'd to a Part.i.tion of Lands in their Families. The _Hanover_ Branch was the first that abolish'd that Custom, pernicious to great Families.

Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ was only restrain'd from it by Pr. _Lewis_ his second Son, whom he lov'd more than his eldest; and not caring to leave him without Dominions, to the Discretion of a Brother, he gave him Possession of this State in his Life-time; because he was of Opinion, that after his Death, his Will wou'd have the Fate of not being executed by his Successor, according to the Custom introduc'd among Sovereigns. With them 'tis a Right of Regale, but for us to do so, is a Crime.

As the County of _Blanckenbourg_ does not give Admittance into the College of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire, so it does not give the Rank of a Sovereign Prince to the Person in possession of it. The Duke, in order to procure himself both these Privileges, made a Treaty with the Elector of _Hanover_, whereby he got that Prince to yield him the Vote and Seat which he enjoy'd in the Dyet for his Dutchy of _Grubenhagen_: And the Duke, on his part, engaged never to vote at the Dyet but in conformity to the Sentiments of the Elector. After his Decease, or if he happens to succeed his Brother, the Vote and Session for _Grubenhagen_ revert to the Elector[48].

This, Sir, is all that I can say to you at present. Their Highnesses being to set out in a few days for _Oetingen_, where they use to go every Summer, I propose to go forthwith to _Leipsic_ and _Dresden_: And at the latter Place I hope to hear from you.