The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz Volume I Part 5

I am, _&c._

[Ill.u.s.tration]

LETTER V.

_SIR_, _Dresden, August 30, 1729._

From _Blanckenbourg_ we have till'd Lands, and fruitful Fields; with Woods of Oak interspers'd all the way, till we come to MAGDEBOURG, the Capital of a Dutchy of that Name, formerly an Archbishop.r.i.c.k, but secularised at the Treaty of _Westphalia_, in favour of the House of _Brandenbourg_, to whom that Dutchy was yielded in exchange for their resigning Hither _Pomerania_ to _Sweden_. This City has for these two Centuries past, suffer'd very much. It was besieg'd by the Emperor _Charles_ V. who squeez'd considerable Sums from it. But it fared worse in that unhappy War which divided _Germany_ during the s.p.a.ce of 30 Years; for the Counts _de Tilly_ and _Papenheim_ commanding the Imperial Army in 1631, took it by Storm, put the Inhabitants to the Sword, and reduc'd the whole City almost to Ashes. Nevertheless, 'tis since pretty well recover'd, and has some fine Houses. The great Square before the King's Palace has few equal to it for its Extent, and for the fine Houses that encompa.s.s it, which are all uniform, three Stories high, and were all raised in this Reign. In this same Square there's an a.r.s.enal, which really is not so magnificent as that of _Berlin_, but may be rank'd among the chief a.r.s.enals in _Europe_. This is a populous Town, and has a more flouris.h.i.+ng Trade than any other City in the King of _Prussia_'s Dominions.

The great Church, which was formerly the Metropolitan, is ancient, and one of the largest and most magnificent Buildings in _Germany_. It has still some Reliques to shew, particularly the Basin in which _Pilate_ washed his Hands, after having pa.s.s'd Sentence of Death upon our Saviour; the Lanthorn[49] which _Judas_ made use of when he went to apprehend him; a Thorn of the Crown that was planted on his Head: and things of the like kind.

The Chapter of _Magdebourg_ is still, bating the change of Religion, on the same footing as before the Reformation. The Canons must all make Proof of their n.o.bility; tho' 'tis a _Punctilio_ with which the King, who confers all the Prebends and Dignities of the Chapter, sometimes dispenses. The present Provost is the Duke of _Saxe-Barbi_, who succeeded his Father in that Dignity, which brings him in 12000 Crowns a-year. He lives in a fine House on the great Square, fronting the Palace, built by the Order of King _Frederic_ I. who also caus'd a Citadel to be erected here, on the other side of the _Elbe_, over which there is a Bridge. That King began likewise to fortify the Town; and King _Frederic-William_, who carried on, and finish'd the Fortifications, has now made _Magdebourg_ one of the most important Places in _Europe_. M. _de Walrave_, Chief Engineer, had the Direction of those Works, which are a Proof of his great Ability.

The Margrave _Albert_ of _Brandenbourg_[50], Brother to the late King _Frederic_ I. is Governour of the Dutchy of _Magdebourg_; as is the Prince of _Anhalt-Dessau_ of the Town, where he has a numerous Garrison under his command. The a.r.s.enal, which is a fine Structure, and full of Cannon, and small Arms, is worth seeing.

The King of _Prussia_ having it much at heart to render _Magdebourg_ a flouris.h.i.+ng Town, has transferr'd the Regency of the Dutchy hither, which was heretofore at _Halle_; and for this reason there are several good Houses in the Town. The Dutchy of _Magdebourg_ is one of the best Provinces in the _Prussian_ Dominions. It has a great Income from the _Elbe_, and the Salt-Works. The Catholicks are allowed a Toleration of their Religion in the Dutchy, and have Churches in the Town.

The Roads from _Magdebourg_ to _Leipsic_, are so bad at this time, by reason of the Rains that have fallen for some Days past, that I have been three Days in getting from the one Town to the other. Indeed I went some Leagues out of my way, on purpose to see BARBI and COHTEN. The first of these Towns belongs to a Prince of the House of _Saxony_, of the Branch of _Weissenfeld_; and has nothing considerable but the Prince's Palace, which makes a good appearance, and has commodious Apartments, elegantly furnished. There is a Salon, and a Closet, the Cielings of which are painted by _Peine_, and not the worst things he has done. The Palace has Gardens delightfully situate by the side of the _Elbe_. The Duke _de Barbi_ is the only Prince of the House of _Saxony_ who professes the _Calvinist_ Religion, in which he was educated by his Father, who was at first a _Lutheran_. This Prince is a comely handsome young Man. He married _N---- de Wirtemberg-Oels_[51], but has no Children. He has been in the Service of _Prussia_, and is Grand Provost of the Chapter of _Magdebourg_, and Knight of the Order of the White Eagle of _Poland_.

COHTEN, which is bigger than _Barbi_ by one half, belongs to a Prince of _Anhalt_[52]; the only one of his Branch, tho' he has had two Wives. I desired leave to kiss his Hand; but he excused himself by pretending an Indisposition. I have observed that petty Princes are always more difficult of Access than great ones. The Town has no Fortifications; and I walk'd about a good while to see if there was any thing remarkable, but 'twas to no purpose; and I was oblig'd to confine myself to my Inn, which was one of the worst in _Europe_.

LEIPSIC stands in a fruitful Plain. This City, so famous for its Fairs, and for its University, may justly pa.s.s for the Jewel of the Electorate of _Saxony_; not only for the Beauty of its Structures, but for the considerable Revenue which it yields to its Sovereign, the King of _Poland_. 'Tis small, and fac'd with Ramparts, and a Ditch; but all these Fortifications are of little consequence. Its Castle, or rather Citadel, which joins to the Town, is a Place of greater Importance. There is always a good Garrison and Governour in it, who is at present General _Baumgarten_. As the Castle pa.s.ses under the Denomination of the King's House, the _Roman_ Catholicks have had a Chapel there ever since _Augustus_ II. embraced their Religion.

The Suburbs of _Leipsic_ are very large. The City has four Gates newly built of Free-Stone, which are magnificent, tho' not according to the Rules of Architecture.

At each Gate they have newly set up a Mile-Post, such as the _Romans_ had formerly. There are the like Posts at the Gates of all the Towns, and even at the Villages in the Electorate of _Saxony_. From hence they count the Leagues, which are divided at the end of every Quarter of a Mile, by other Posts not so big, upon all the great Roads, shewing the Distances of the Places, and of the chief Towns; which is a mighty Convenience to Travellers, who were heretofore often impos'd upon by the Post-Masters, as to the Length of the Roads.

The Houses of _Leipsic_ are large, very high, and substantially built of Free-Stone; and their being adorn'd with great fine Windows helps to set them off to the Eye. The Ground-Floors of most of the Houses are Warehouses, in which the foreign Merchants store the Goods they sell at the Fairs, which are three in number every Year, _viz._ at _New-Year's-day_, _Easter_, and _Michaelma.s.s_. The Concourse of Foreigners here at the Fair-Season, is so great that 'tis often a hard matter to get a Lodging here for Love or Money. I myself saw in 1709, at the _New-year's_ Fair, the late King of _Prussia_, the King and Queen of _Poland_, and 44 Princes or Princesses of Sovereign Families. The two Kings and the Queen lodged at the House of _Appel_, a Merchant; where the King of _Poland_ always resides when he comes to _Leipsic_.

The University, formerly so famous, is very much decay'd: That of _Halle_, its Neighbour, and its Rival, in the King of _Prussia_'s Dominions, takes away a great many Students from it. They say that for some time past there have been more able Professors at _Halle_, where besides 'tis much cheaper living than at _Leipsic_; and where the Students are not such Spendthrifts, nor so much addicted to Expence and Gallantry.

The Gardens of Messieurs _Appel_ and _Pose_, Merchants, in the Suburbs, are worth seeing. The first is large and magnificent: In the second are very uncommon Plants, cultivated with very great Care. The Gardeners of _Leipsic_, who are reckon'd the best in all _Germany_, value themselves upon forcing Nature; so that I have seen here, at _Easter_ Fair, the Fruits, Flowers, and Pulse, of all the Seasons. The Asparagus here is delicious, and extraordinary large. Another Nicety at _Leipsic_, is its Larks, which are sent over all _Germany_; nay, to _Poland_, _Holland_ and _Denmark_. I was a.s.sured, but I will not vouch for the Truth of it, that the very Custom-Duty paid for Larks at _Leipsic_, amounted to 12000 Crowns a-year; which Sum I thought the more considerable, because I think I have heard it said, that 60 Larks pay but a Grosh[53] the Duty; judge then how many there must be to make up the Sum of 12000 Crowns. But be it true or false, 'tis certain that there is not a Country in the World where these Birds are taken in such quant.i.ties; for, from _Michaelma.s.s_ to _Martinma.s.s_, the Fields are cover'd with 'em.

Another Singularity is the mult.i.tude of Nightingales, in the Woods near _Leipsic_; whereof they take great numbers, and keep them in Cages: The Innkeeper's Daughter, where I lodged, had seven of them; and I have seen a great many at other Houses.

'Tis surprizing that so plentiful a Country as _Saxony_ shou'd have no better Ordinarys. I don't mean _Leipsic_ and _Dresden_, where, considering one is in _Germany_, we come off pretty well; tho' were it so in _Holland_, the _Netherlands_, or in _France_, we shou'd not think ourselves well us'd. I mean the little Towns and Villages in a Road so frequented as that from _Leipsic_ to _Dresden_. There's Provision to be had at these Ordinarys, but then 'tis so ill dress'd, and the Houses so nasty, that 'tis enough to turn one's Stomach.

Setting out from _Leipsic_, at the opening of the Gates, I came betimes to WERMSTORF, or HUBERTSBOURG, (St. _Hubert_'s Palace,) a magnificent Hunting-Seat, which the Electoral Prince of _Saxony_ is building at the Entrance of a Forest, where there are several Roads cut. This House is five Miles from _Leipsic_, and eight from _Dresden_; and when 'tis finish'd, will be large and magnificent: Men are hard at work upon it, and the main Body of it is already compleated. Their Royal Highnesses, the Prince and Princess, generally hunt here at Spring and Autumn. The Equipage for the Stag-hunting is very fine, the Liveries being Yellow, with Facings of blue Velvet, and Silver Lace at all the Seams.

After I had walk'd an Hour or two at _Hubertsbourg_, I proceeded on my Journey, and came to Dinner at MEISSEN, the Capital of _Misnia_. This City has nothing particular, besides its Manufacture of Porcellane, which is so finely painted and enamell'd with Gold, that it is more beautiful than the Porcellane of _j.a.pan_, and much dearer. The Invention of it is owing to an Alchymist, or one that pretended to be such; who had persuaded a great many People he cou'd make Gold. The King of _Poland_ believ'd it as well as others, and to make sure of his Person, caus'd him to be committed to the Castle of _Konigstein_, three Miles from _Dresden_. There, instead of making Gold, that solid precious Metal, which puts Mankind on committing so many Follies, he invented Brittle Porcellane; by which, in one Sense, he made Gold, because the great Vent of that Ware brings a deal of Money into the Country.

After having pa.s.s'd the _Elbe_, over a wooden Bridge, going out of _Meissen_, I came in less than three Hours to DRESDEN, the Capital of the Electorate of _Saxony_. The City is pretty large, fortify'd with Art and Regularity; and very lightsome. Its Houses are high and substantial, the Streets broad, strait, well pav'd, neat, and in the Night-time well lighted. There are great Squares in it; and the whole City is so well laid out, that _Dresden_ may be rank'd among the finest in the World.

The _Elbe_ divides it into two Parts; which are distinguished by Old and New _Dresden_, and join'd together by a Bridge of Stone.

In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this City, I shall point out to you such things as I took most notice of. I shall begin with Old _Dresden_, which is the first that we come to from _Meissen_. At the Entrance of the Town, on the right hand, there is a great House, called the Palace of the _Indies_, or _Holland_ House, which the King bought some Years ago of his Prime Minister, the Marshal Count _de Fleming_. All the Rooms of this Palace, which consists of three Stories, are so many Closets of _j.a.pan_ and _China_ Wares. I don't believe that all the Warehouses in _Amsterdam_ put together, are capable of furnis.h.i.+ng such a quant.i.ty of uncommon old Porcellane, as is to be found here. The value of it is computed at a Million of Crowns. The very Houshold-Goods are _Indian_. There is one Set of Furniture, the like of which I never saw elsewhere: It consists of Feathers of various Colours, and all natural; inlaid with so much Art, that it might be taken for a fine flower'd Sattin.

This magnificent Palace has a Garden belonging to it, which looks towards the _Elbe_. It is adorn'd with Statues of white Marble, which the King caus'd to be purchas'd at _Rome_, of the Cardinals _Annibal_ and _Alexander Albani_, Nephews to _Clement_ XI. These Statues are much more priz'd here than they were at _Rome_.

Near the Palace of the _Indies_ stands that of the Cadets; a magnificent Structure built by the States of _Saxony_, for maintaining two Companies of Cadets, all Gentlemen of the Country; who are there instructed in all the Sciences fitting for Persons of Quality.

Farther up in the same Street, there is an Amphitheatre, or Area, for the Battles of wild Beasts; of which a great number is kept for that purpose.

Here are Lions, Tigers, Bears; in short, all the fiercest Animals from the four Quarters of the World.

The Bridge over the _Elbe_, which joins Old _Dresden_ to the New, is scarce to be parallel'd, either for its Length or Substance. It has lately been made broader by forming Demy-Arches which support the Riders on each side. The Barriers are of Iron, well wrought. An Equestrian Statue of the King is going to be erected upon it.

The Palace or Castle joins to the Bridge, at the Entrance of New _Dresden_. This is an ancient Structure, which makes but a mean Appearance; and 'tis said, that the King intends it shall be pull'd down, and another built in its room; and that his Majesty has set apart eight Millions of Crowns for the Expence of it.

The inside of the Castle surpa.s.ses the outside. The State-Room is splendidly furnish'd. The Great Gallery contains several Curiosities, such as antique Busts, Vessels, and Pictures.

This Palace has two Chapels, one of which belongs to the _Roman_ Catholicks, and the other to the _Lutherans_. The first was heretofore the Theatre for Operas, but the King turn'd it into a Chapel, upon account of the Marriage of his only Son with the Archdutchess, eldest Daughter to the Emperor _Joseph_; the second was always the Chapel of the Electors of _Saxony_. The King might, if he pleas'd, have order'd Ma.s.s to be celebrated in it, but he wou'd not give his Subjects that Handle for Complaint; besides, the late Queen, his Wife, having always stuck to the _Lutheran_ Religion, in which she was born, he left her that Chapel for her use. The Treasure of it is extremely rich, and contains Vessels, Chasubles, and other things heretofore consecrated and given to this Chapel by the Piety of the Electors.

The Royal Treasury, commonly call'd the _Grune Gewolbe_, (the Green Vault,) is in the Palace. They are three arch'd Rooms, which contain immense Riches, and s.h.i.+ne all over with Gold, Precious Stones, and Diamonds. 'Tis one of the finest Places in the World. There are several Sets of Brilliant Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Pearls, Saphirs, and other Precious Stones. Every Set is compleat, and consists of b.u.t.tons for Clothes, Loops for Hats, Swords, Hangers, Canes, Sleeve-b.u.t.tons, Shoe-Buckles, m.u.f.fs, and Sword-Belts, Snuff-Boxes, Watches, Tweezer-Cases, Pocket-Books; in short, all the Jewels that can possibly be imagin'd, even to the Furniture of a Horse; so that were I to write down every Particular, I should furnish you a Volume. And they all look the better, for being ranged with wonderful Nicety in Cases of Crystal.

To the Castle belongs a Garden, call'd the _Zwinger Garten_, which is the _Tuilleries_ of _Dresden_, but not extensive enough to deserve the Name of a Garden. 'Tis encompa.s.s'd with Buildings of Free-Stone, which are Green-Houses for Orange-Trees. The Structure consists but of one Floor, on which are rais'd six large Pavilions, _viz._ three in front at the Entrance, two on the sides, and one over the Portico at the Entrance; which have all a Communication with one another, by a Platform that has Bal.u.s.trades adorn'd with Statues. It wou'd be hard to lay what Order of Architecture prevails most in this Edifice, the Carv'd-Work with which it is decorated, being more of the _Gothic_ than the modern Taste.

Near to this Building there's a Palace which makes a great Shew, but the Apartments are by much too small, and too low for the Ornaments employ'd about them. The King caus'd this House to be built for the Countess _de Cosel_, at the time when that Lady was in high Favour. No Cost was spar'd in it; but 'tis pity that a more skilful Architect had not been pitched upon to conduct it.

There are five or six other Houses, which are here call'd _Hotels_, but in _Italy_ wou'd certainly pa.s.s for Palaces. The Hotel _de Fuhl_ in the Street of _Pirnitz_ is one of this number. It was erected by the Great Marshal _de Fuhl_ who on his Death-bed left it to his Wife, of whom it was purchas'd by the Count _de Fleming_. That Minister sold it soon after to the King, who made considerable Embellishments in it, and furnished it richly. In this Condition his Majesty gave it in 1728, to the Marshal _de Wackerbarth_, to make him amends when he had been burnt out of the House he liv'd in, as Governour of _Dresden_. After this, the Governour's House being rebuilt, the King bought the other House again of the Count _de Wackerbarth_, and has made it a Depositary of his Medals, Antiquities, and Curiosities.

To be sure you have heard that this Fire broke out at the Governour's House in the Night-time, while the King of _Prussia_ was here. His Majesty actually lodg'd at the Governour's House; and was in Bed when the Fire burst out with such fury that he had but just time to make his Escape in his Night-Gown, and to save a little Box in which there were Papers of consequence; for the Floor of his Bed-Chamber fell in, the moment after the King was gone out of it. An Officer, his Wife, and her Maid-Servant perish'd in the Flames. The Count _de Wackerbarth_ only sav'd his Wardrobe and his Plate; for his fine Library, and a n.o.ble Collection which he had of Drawings, one of the compleatest and best chosen Setts in _Europe_, were consum'd.

The Hotel of _Hoyhm_ is the most considerable Building in _Dresden_. In about six Years time it had four different Owners. It was founded by the King's Favourite, the Count _de Fitztuhm_[54], his Great Chamberlain, and Minister of State; who having been kill'd in a Duel at _Warsaw_, by the Count _de St. Gilles_, a _Piedmontese_ that came to _Poland_ to seek his Fortune, his Widow sold it to Marshal _Fleming_, who dying at _Vienna_ not long after he had purchased it, the House fell to his Son, a weakly Child, who did not long survive him. His Mother, who was a _Radzivil_, was his Heiress, and one of the greatest Matches in _Europe_. She was soon after married again to a _Polander_ whom she follow'd into his own Country; and when she left _Dresden_, she sold her House to the Count _de Hoym_, who at present occupies it.

Not far from this House are the King's Stables, which are well worth seeing, there being a great number of wonderful fine Horses, and some of all sorts of the rarest Breeds. Over the Stables, are Rooms full of fine Equipage, consisting of sumptuous Saddles and Housings, Sleds and magnificent Harness. Many of these Equipages are of the _Turkish_ Mode, and plated with ma.s.sy Silver, adorn'd with precious Stones.

The a.r.s.enal, which is much boasted of here, cannot be reckon'd a fine one by any but such as have not seen the a.r.s.enal of _Berlin_, to which it is not to be compar'd. There are several Rooms in it full of Arms, Bra.s.s Cannon, Helmets, and Cuira.s.ses, which are the Tapestry of a.r.s.enals.

Thus, Sir, you have all that I observed in _Dresden_: it remains for me to give you some Account of its Suburbs, and of the Pleasure-Houses which the King has in the Neighbourhood of this City.

The Suburbs of _Dresden_ are very extensive, but have no Building of consequence, except the Palace in the King's great Garden, built by his Majesty's Mother, and that call'd the _Turkish_ Palace, because it is furnished entirely after the _Turkish_ manner. The King gave an Entertainment at this Palace to the Princess his Daughter-in-law, on account of her Arrival at _Dresden_, which was so particular that I think it deserves a Digression.

Upon the Feast-Day, the whole Court appeared at the _Turkish_ Palace, in the Habits of _Turks_. The King came in the Dress of a _Sultan_, but without any Attendance. His Majesty was soon after follow'd by the Princess his Daughter-in-law, with her Ladies. Her Royal Highness, for whom the Entertainment was made, found a Body of Janizaries drawn up in the Court-Yard of the Palace. The King receiv'd her at the Entrance of his Apartment, and conducted her into a Hall spread with fine Tapestry, and laid with Cus.h.i.+ons richly embroider'd.

The King and Princess being seated, were served by twenty-four Negroes in sumptuous Dresses, with Sherbet, Coffee, and Sweet-Meats, in great Vessels of ma.s.sy Silver; nor were scented Waters, and perfumed Handkerchiefs forgot. After this Collation, they drew near the Windows to see the _Pillau_ (which is the Rice of _Turky_) and the King's Bounty-Money distributed to the Janizaries. This was follow'd by a Comedy, with an Entertainment of _Turkish_ Dances. Then came the Supper, the Guests sitting cross-legg'd upon the Cus.h.i.+ons, and the Courses being served up after the fas.h.i.+on of _Turky_, by the Negroes and young _Turks_. While they were at Table, the Company was diverted by the various Leaps and Postures of certain Tumblers and Rope-Dancers. Supper being over, they went into the Garden, which was illuminated with several Thousands of Crystal Lamps.

There was Tilting, and shooting at the Mark, and whenever the Mark was. .h.i.t, a Sky-Rocket was sent up, which for the time seem'd to sprinkle Thousands of Stars among those in the Firmament. After this, the Company retir'd into the Palace, where the King and the Princess open'd the Ball, and there was dancing till five o'clock in the Morning, when the Ball was concluded with a sumptuous Breakfast that was serv'd at the several Tables, after the manner of our own Country; which, with the leave of the _Mussulmen_, is as good as theirs.

The finest Royal Houses, are _Pilnitz_ and _Moritzbourg_. The King, who is certainly of all Sovereigns the most magnificent, keeps Men continually at work, in embellis.h.i.+ng those Places. The Works are carried on by the Direction of Mons. _Bot_, whom I think to be not inferior to _Bernini_, and I doubt not, such is my high Idea of him, that as he is supported by the Generosity of a Great King, he will accomplish such Works as are worthy of himself, and of his Master too.

I have now done with the Description of the Palaces and Royal Houses, in which, I own I have been defective, and would gladly have been excus'd from giving it; but you would have it, and I cou'd not help gratifying you. I pa.s.s now to something more important; and shall entertain you with the present State of the Royal Family, and the Characters of the most distinguish'd Persons at Court.

FREDERIC-AUGUSTUS II. King of _Poland_, and Elector of _Saxony_, is the Chief of this August Family. This Monarch, whom no Man surpa.s.ses in Strength and Dexterity, and whom few Princes equal in Generosity, is the second Son of _John George_ III. Elector of _Saxony_. He succeeded his Brother _John George_ IV. in the Electorate, and was chose King of _Poland_ after the Death of the Great _Sobieski_, notwithstanding the Intrigues of the Emissaries of _France_ who declared for the Prince of _Conti_.

When _Frederic-Augustus_ ascended the Throne, he brought all the Virtues to it fitting for a Great King. The Agreeableness of his Person, his Majestic Air, his Heroic Strength, his Good-Nature, his Politeness, and his well-known Valour, were the least of his Qualities. Never was any Prince more magnificent, nor did any one either give more, or with a better Grace. As a General and a Statesman, he was never too much lifted up by Prosperity, nor shock'd by Adversity; so that he was observed, when in the depth of his Misfortunes, to act and treat even with his Enemies, with that Air of Complaisance and Satisfaction, which Men inur'd to great Affairs know how to a.s.sume, in the midst of the cruellest Mortifications.