Kathay: A Cruise in the China Seas Part 10

As it was, we got off barely in time, for it commenced to "blow great guns" about the time we got afloat, which created such a sea as would soon have knocked us to pieces, and even before we had way on, the surf was beating so violently upon the beach, as to have precluded all possibility of reaching the sh.o.r.e in an armed body.

Under double-reefed topsails we beat over to Amoy, and the next morning made the entrance to that port, but had to stand off and on the whole day and night, the sea being so high as to make it dangerous to attempt to enter the harbor.

CHAPTER XVII.

Amoy--Its Trade--Cause of Decay--Infanticide--Manner of destroying Female Infants--China Woman's Confession-- Environs--British and American Cemeteries--The Fatal Rock--Koo-lung-Seu--Chinese Gunnery--Chinese Customs-- Marriage--Death--Manner of Mourning--PaG.o.da of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan.

On the morning of the 29th of May, came into the port of Amoy and anch.o.r.ed. Communicated with our Consul, who stated that our commerce was very small at that point, and although it is connected with the tea district, but five American vessels had entered the port for the past two years.

Of all the "five ports," Amoy appears to have the least foreign trade, and notwithstanding its contiguity to the region of China, in which its princ.i.p.al article of export is produced, enjoys but little commerce.

This is in a measure to be attributed to the difficulty of entering its bay at all seasons, but is mainly caused by the apathy and lack of enterprise of its inhabitants. They appear to be less disposed to trade with foreigners than any other Chinese we visited, and in their shops were perfectly indifferent whether we became purchasers or not, using no exertions to effect sales. This was so opposite to what we had always found to be a prominent feature of Chinese character as to excite remark. In Canton, Macao, and Shanghae, they had pressed their wares upon us, but in Amoy you might examine the contents of a shop, without being importuned to purchase a single article.

The princ.i.p.al trade appeared to be in opium. There were two receiving s.h.i.+ps in the bay, and from the general appearance of the people, would be led to suppose that a great deal of it was smoked by them, and this accounted for their apathy and want of energy.

It must end so, that this opium trade will be the ruin of China, for in its use it not only enervates the people, but it is procured by draining the country of the precious metals, and it may be fairly stated, that for every ounce of opium brought into the country, nearly its weight in Sycee silver has been extracted.

The town of Amoy presents the same features as Shanghae, and other Chinese cities: streets narrow and filthy, and dirt abundant, an equal number of offensive smells pervade the atmosphere, and as many disgusting sights offend the eye; beggars, to be sure, are not so common as at Shanghae, but the inhabitants have a squalid look, as if _too lazy to beg_. Infanticide--or if I may be allowed to coin a word for this peculiar kind of child murder on account of its being confined entirely to the female s.e.x--"Puellacide" is said to prevail to a greater extent in this region than even in Canton itself. Whilst sons are considered an honor, and their growth looked upon as a matter of profit, the giving birth to a daughter is proportionably a disgrace, and the rearing of it a disadvantage, consequently the female infant is generally allowed but a few moments existence in "this breathing world," and is usually strangled by the hands of its unnatural mother immediately upon its birth. The manner in which this act is said to be performed, is by filling up the mouth of the babe with rice, and holding its nostrils closed with the hand until suffocation is produced.

It is hard to suppose that a mother can thus act towards her offspring, but it is known to be too true, and it may be a better fate than is reserved for many of the s.e.x whose lives have been spared, for so useless an inc.u.mbrance are females considered in the families of the lower orders, and so little regard have their parents for them, that even before they grow up, they are often sold for the worst purposes.

A Chinese woman, who had been converted to Christianity, confessed, that in her ignorance, she had destroyed _seven_ of her own infants, females of course, not considering the custom of her country, at that time, a crime.

Although there is but little to interest one in the town of Amoy, there are several pleasant places in its vicinity. Yet every where appeared the evidence of "decay's effacing fingers." On the opposite side of the bay was once a flouris.h.i.+ng site, which previous to the attack of the English had been the residence of the wealthier citizens, mandarins, etc. When the British troops invested this place, they occupied these buildings as barracks; and being withdrawn after the treaty, left them in a ruinous condition. They have not been used since, and the large gardens, evidently at one time cultivated with much taste, have now run to waste. In these were romantic grottoes, in which are curiously carved resting-places, cut out of the rock.

The English burial ground is in this neighborhood; it is a small place, and walled in. The mortality amongst the troops was very great during the occupancy of this place, and this area is said to contain over a regiment of soldiers.

The American cemetery is more prepossessing in appearance. It is situated in a picturesque valley, full of beautiful trees, and did not contain many graves. From it there is a fine view of the bay and islands, and the city of Amoy.

In crossing the bay on our return, there was pointed out a singularly shaped rock in height about thirty feet, with a narrow base, and swelling out as it ascended, in appearance similar to a boy's top. The Chinese have a startling prophecy connected with it, which is, that when it shall fall, the present dynasty of China will also decline; reminding one of the Latin saying, "When falls the Coliseum, Rome shall fall." But Rome has fallen, and the Coliseum still stands! Will the parallel hold good between this rock and China? The island of Koo-lung-Seu, when the British made the attack upon Amoy, appears to have been well fortified, but the Chinese committed a great error in the _training_ of their guns, or rather in placing them so as to have been unable to take any other range than point blank! Here is a fort mounting upwards of fifty guns of large calibre, which would have commanded the bay, but the embrasures are so small as barely to admit the muzzle of the gun, the breech of which was imbedded in the earth. These were soon silenced, as may well be supposed, by the attacking squadron taking a position beyond their range, and training their own batteries to bear upon the Chinese gunners within, who kept blazing away into the unresisting air, whilst the British riddled the fort at leisure. The mandarin in charge, a Tartar, who would not be caught, drowned himself.

From Mr. Bradley, our intelligent Consul at Amoy, who appears to have devoted much time to the study of the Chinese and their customs, obtained a great deal of information respecting them.

In regard to marriages, he stated, that when a Chinaman considers himself rich enough to take a wife, he informs the object of his choice _by letter_, which is usually a sheet of paper some five or six feet in length; this is shown to her parents, and if the match is thought a proper one, she is allowed to make known her compliance in a _billet-doux_ of equal proportions. After this interchange, the father of the selected fair calls upon the proposing party to arrange preliminaries, amongst not the least important of which is the payment of a sum of money agreed upon between them; this fund is _supposed_ to be for the furnis.h.i.+ng of the bride.

The happy day is then appointed, and when it arrives a plentiful supply of edibles flows in from the friends of both families to the house of the bridegroom; from whence are dispatched a number of his friends to carry the bride to her future home; by these she is borne along in a sedan chair, closely veiled, accompanied by music, and is received by her future "lord and _master_" seated in state, and surrounded by the tablets of his ancestors; then for the _first_ time in his life he _beholds the face_ of the woman of his choice!

The marriage being consummated, three days succeeding are devoted to festivities.

When a woman has been so unfortunate as to become a widow, especially without male issue, she testifies her grief in every imaginable manner, filling the air with her lamentations, tearing her loosened hair, and giving all the demonstrations of the deepest sorrow. At each meal food is placed at the accustomed seat, and the absentee is entreated to return and partake in the most endearing terms. This is continued for a season, when, as if tired of entreaty so unavailingly lavished, and in the true spirit of her s.e.x, the widow changes her tune, and commences to abuse the "dear departed." For one year this practice is kept up, after that, twice a month for three years; then only upon the anniversary of his death. Have not been apprised of any success having attended these applications, or whether the applicants were sincere in their expressions; but am rather inclined to doubt the sincerity of the mourner, excepting in cases where male issue is desired, and then their grief has a selfish motive.

There was an instance in a Chinese house opposite the Consulate, where a woman, who had been deprived of her partner by death, a short time previously, was calling him to breakfast, and deprecating his delay in no measured terms.

The PaG.o.da, or tower of Nan-tae-Woo-Shan, is a conspicuous object near Amoy. It is one thousand seven hundred and twenty-eight feet above the level of the sea, and an excellent mark for vessels making the harbor.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Formosa--Description of the Island--Its productions--Coal Mines--Metals--The Dutch Possessions--Their Expulsion--Proper policy of Civilized Powers.

The island of Formosa--from going on which we so narrowly escaped--is destined from its position and importance, to become, at a time not long future, a place of considerable trade for both Europeans and Americans, as it is now indeed with the Chinese of the neighboring provinces of Fo-Kien and Che-Kiang on the main land.

As its name implies, it is a "beautiful" island, especially on its southern extremity, which has been described as a fruitful garden, producing delicious fruits and grain of every description, and exporting vast quant.i.ties of rice, sugar, tobacco, and camphor.

The Chinese call it Te-wan; it extends between the degrees of twenty and twenty-six north lat.i.tude, is about fifty miles wide, and is separated from the province of Foo-Kien, of which it is a dependency, by a channel of from eighty to ninety miles in breadth.

It is equidistant from j.a.pan and the Philippine Islands, being about one hundred and fifty miles from each, and appears to have been placed directly in the highway of commerce.

As yet it has been but little explored, and of its harbors, with the exception of Kelung, not much is known. This harbor is on its northern extremity, in lat.i.tude 25 9' north of Greenwich, by a late observation.

There is a good anchorage here for vessels drawing not over sixteen feet, and water and supplies can be obtained from the town, which contains about two thousand inhabitants, said to be very civil and obliging. They are princ.i.p.ally engaged in fis.h.i.+ng and the cultivation of the land, which is set down as luxuriant in the extreme.

Coal is said to be very abundant in this neighborhood, and many excavations have been made in the surrounding hills, some of them having been tunnelled over forty feet, and a distinct stratum exhibited of about four feet thick, hard and easily detached, lying between blue soft shale and sandstone. The quality of this coal was described by a person who visited the mines, to be very good, heavy, easily detached, igniting readily, and burning with a bituminous ga.s.sy flame, leaving a very small quant.i.ty of ashes of a reddish white color. From specimens which I have seen, do not suppose it equal to the English Cannel or our own Pittsburgh; but have known coal of a not much superior quality to have been produced from the first workings of mines in the valley of the Ohio, and who can say but that much better veins exist, of which these are but the openings?

In this however does not consist entirely the mineral wealth of this prolific island, and in the range of mountains which run through its centre is found gold and silver, iron ore and copper. Whilst in the valleys at their feet, the labors of the husbandman are bountifully rewarded in extensive crops of sugar and rice, so easily produced from the luxuriant soil of a southern lat.i.tude.

The Pang-hoo or Pescadore Islands, which lie between it and the province of Foo-Kien, compose with Formosa, one Foo, or department of that province, and are subject to its Foo-yuen or Governor. These dependencies are divided into six districts, five of which are within the limits of Formosa, the sixth comprising the Pescadore Islands.

But although the Chinese government a.s.serts supremacy over Formosa, and subjects its inhabitants to tribute, yet amongst the aborigines are several tribes, which it has never been able to subdue, and who as yet successfully dispute its authority, overrun the peaceably disposed districts, and prevent this extensive island from being more thoroughly explored, and its vast resources fully developed. It was upon their inhospitable sh.o.r.e that we came near being cast, and from their tender mercies made so narrow an escape.

In the year 1624, the Dutch, being then powerful at sea, made an attack upon the Portuguese settlement at Macao; from which being repulsed, their Admiral sought refuge on Formosa, and taking possession of the Pescadore Islands, attacked Chinese junks, trading in those waters, and plundering them, disposed of their cargoes on the neighboring island of j.a.pan.

By permission from the reigning dynasty of China, then tottering to its fall, they were allowed to establish a factory on the S. W. coast of Formosa, where they erected a fort, which they named Fort Zealand.

This settlement became quite flouris.h.i.+ng, from the fact that the disturbances on the main land drove numbers of the more peaceably disposed Chinese to the security of this new retreat on the beautiful island.

A number of Spaniards from Manilla, noting the advantageous position of the island, attempted a settlement on its northern side, but it was soon broken up by the Dutch, who drove them away, and held undisputed sway over it until 1644, when the Tartars conquered China, who naturally becoming jealous of this band of foreigners so near their sh.o.r.es, made arrangements with the celebrated c.o.xinga--son of him who had been educated by the Portuguese and baptized Nicholas--to repair to Formosa, and root out this growing power.

Having, by professions of peace, induced the Dutch Admiral sent for its protection to withdraw his forces and return to Batavia, he approached the settlement with a large force, and landing, was immediately joined by his countrymen the Chinese who had emigrated thither. With these added to his command, c.o.xinga demanded Formosa from the Dutch, requiring them to depart at once or "hoist the red flag," that is, prepare to fight. This they did, and after sustaining a siege of nine months, surrendered the fort, and were allowed to proceed to Java.

Had they conciliated the Chinese, who had come to live amongst them, they might have had their support, and retained possession of the island, but by barbarous treatment they had alienated them, so that c.o.xinga found in them willing allies.

Since the expulsion of the Dutch, there has been no attempt at settlement on this desirable island by any European power; which, when its fertility and position are considered, is somewhat remarkable. As I have before stated, its productions are distributed by Chinese junks, of which between two and three hundred are engaged in carrying rice to the neighboring provinces, and nearly one hundred are said to be employed in transporting the article of sugar alone to one single port in China, that of Tein-tsin. The trade between it and Canton is also said to be considerable, camphor being the princ.i.p.al export thence.

But if gain will not induce civilized powers to occupy this as yet undeveloped island, the cause of humanity should interest some such maritime nation as England or America, to at least chastise those barbarous savages who overrun its eastern sh.o.r.es; it is from these that many a peaceful mariner, coasting them in trading voyages, having been caught in those dreadful Typhoons which ravage those seas, and thrown helpless into their hands, has met with a cruel and torturing death, and from the fact of numberless s.h.i.+pwrecks along that coast, of which no survivors have remained, it is but fair to judge that the hapless crews have only escaped the angry waters, to meet a more violent end on these inhospitable sh.o.r.es. An instance occurred in the crew of the "Larpent,"

an English merchant vessel, which went ash.o.r.e here, about the time we pa.s.sed the island, of which but four escaped, and these by a miracle.

They saw their unfortunate s.h.i.+pmates lanced, and decapitated, and themselves, being hotly pursued, escaped in their boat, and landing at a point un.o.bserved, were, whilst pus.h.i.+ng their way to the interior, captured and sold as slaves, from which condition they were released by a chief from another part of the island, and put on board the "Antelope," an opium clipper, which brought them to Shanghae.

CHAPTER XIX.