The Copeland Method Part 7

Trousers after being brushed thoroughly, should be turned inside out, and placed on hangers, by doing this you are reversing the folds and wrinkles that have formed while wearing, thereby allowing the cloth to fall back into place. It is impossible to prevent trousers bagging at the knees, but may be prevented in this way. Fasten a piece of silk to the forepart of trousers on the inside to both leg seams across top and bottom of silk, seven inches above and ten inches below the knee, being careful when sewing not to let the st.i.tches show through on the out side. Another suggestion and a good one, is to buy two pairs trousers with each suit (except a dress suit, then it is not necessary) and wear them alternately, two days at a time, and have them pressed each time you change, and turned inside out each night.

It is a good idea to have a row of hooks at the top of one's wardrobe from which to hang these forms, thereby saving much s.p.a.ce especially in the smaller houses. Care should be taken to draw trousers up well when wearing, so that they will set properly. When trousers are worn without suspenders, they must be cut shorter waisted, shorter in the legs and closer around the waist. If one wears suspenders it is a luxury to have a pair for each pair of trousers. Then when one adjustment is made saves any further bother.

Brus.h.i.+ng clothes is a very simple but necessary operation, a fact which few people thoroughly appreciate. Fine clothes require brus.h.i.+ng lightly with a soft brush, except when mud is to be removed, then a stiff brush should be used, after garment has been lightly beaten to loosen the dirt. Never use a whisk broom to brush clothes as they injure the fibre of the cloth. When brus.h.i.+ng lay the coat on a table, and brush in the direction of the thread or nap of the fabric.

A well made, well fitting garment should not be thrown away when slightly worn, but should be repaired, cleaned and pressed. Many times lasting as long after being repaired as at first. Unless absolutely necessary never patch, when darning will answer the purpose better. If the garment is not too badly worn baste a piece of cloth, the same as the material in the garment (or as near as possible) under the weakened part and darn to this piece. One may back st.i.tch with silk to match the cloth, or make a small running st.i.tch. When the entire part has been thoroughly darned, turn the garment inside out and herringbone all around the piece of cloth (or patch to the inside) being careful not to allow st.i.tches to show through on the outside. Press and they are ready for wear. This is especially good when repairing the seat of trousers.

Tape is invaluable in repairing, as it may be used to strengthen weak places and where b.u.t.tons are to be sewed, acting as a stay, also saving time of turning the edges of the cloth in, and is less clumsy.

Ruskin says, "Clothes carefully cared for, and rightly worn, show a balance of mind and respect."

The freshness of a garment depends upon the care taken of it, and only requires a few minutes each time they are taken off; they should be carefully brushed, to remove all dust and dirt, removing all spots, b.u.t.tons sewed on and replaced when worn, new braid on the bottoms of skirts, cleaning and pressing, making little necessary alterations. All these little duties given proper attention, will keep a wardrobe fresh and in good order.

It is not always the wear on the clothes, that tell so sadly upon them.

It is the care that they receive. A few garments, well made and properly fitted, and good care taken of them, is far more preferable than a number of inferior quality and make.

When clothing is laid away for another season, they should first be thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and pressed, to be ready for wear when needed. If placed in bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be sprinkled over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the outside as to the contents.

Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful when folding sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat; collars turned up, and the coat folded in the center back seam, sleeves lying together and on top of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and place in the box.

If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the sleeves with tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.

To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material and fit well.

The length of waist, and full length should be in proportion to the wearer, or as near fas.h.i.+on as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right length, and hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and even, the opening in front should close without bulging when b.u.t.toned, and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. The whole appearance of the garment must be easy, the chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position while sitting as when standing. The b.u.t.tonholes must be neat, and the b.u.t.tons sewed on good and strong with neck.

The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of fas.h.i.+onable length, sleeves to cover the under coat, and to fit close around the neck (sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary overcoat), and must be the same length at front and back at bottom.

A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down, whether sitting or stooping, more especially the former.

A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug.

One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make one's clothes.

Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is not universal.) The waist should be the proper height and size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout men do not want their trousers very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror; do not look down upon them as many do, and often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping and looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing natural, hang smooth and straight.

LESSON VIII.

FOLDING CLOTHES.

How to fold coats, vests, trousers, ladies' jackets, coats and skirts.

How to place each garment in boxes for storing, delivering, s.h.i.+pping, the marking names and addresses on same.

How to fold all kinds of coats, for delivery, traveling, storing, or s.h.i.+pping. Turn sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds come at the bend of the elbow, now turn the lapels and fronts back over the folded sleeves, then fold the skirts over and up level with the collar, so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment, then double one-half over the other so that the folds come in the center back seam.

=To fold vests=: Place two foreparts together right side out, having the edges and side seams even and on top of each other, then fold back over fronts of vest so that back seam lays perpendicular with the front edge, straighten wrinkles out of shoulder. Then fold neck, or collar down level with the bottom, so that the crease will fold about the center of the garment, or bottom of arm hole.

=To fold trousers=: Place two top suspender b.u.t.tons together and front creases at bottoms even and on top of each other up and down the leg, lay smooth on the table, then fold backs over on fronts to meet front creases and taper to nothing, to about six inches above the knee, then fold legs, bringing the bottoms up level with the top of trousers, so that bend will come about the knee or half the entire length of trousers. Then place in box for delivery. If, however, trousers are to be placed in a paper package for delivery, or to be folded small for packing, the following is an easy method, when backs are folded over to meet the front creases, and legs are lying smooth on the table, divide the entire length of the trousers in three parts making two folds, one three inches below the seat line or fork, the other about fifteen inches from the bottom, place in paper to deliver.

When a suit is to be placed in a box for delivery, lay trousers in first, (folded as first explained), the vest next and the coat last, place cover on box, and wrap with heavy cord to hold top and bottom together, also for convenience when carrying.

Ladies' jackets and coats are folded the same as men's, either short or long.

Ladies' skirts are folded in this manner, if plain, take front of waist band in the right hand, and with the left find center front of skirt at bottom, lay on table and fold front over to meet the center back seam of skirt, then fold double and place in box or package, for delivery. When skirt is plaited see that the plaits lay in the proper creases, and fold as explained above, being careful not to make too small a package so as not to crush.

The firm name should be printed on the cover of the box together with these words, "Please unpack and place on hangers as soon as received."

This prevents clothes from wrinkling badly. The customer's name and address should be written plainly in the s.p.a.ce left for that purpose on the cover of the box.

When sending a package by express or other carrying companies, it is best to mark the value of the contents of the package on the cover.

LESSON IX.

TESTING WOOLEN CLOTH AND SILK.

=Testing woolen cloth and silk=: The great value of wool as a fibre, lies in the fact that it is strong, elastic, soft and very susceptible to dye stuffs, and being woven, furnishes a great number of air s.p.a.ces, thereby rendering clothing made from it very warm and light.

Wool may be dissolved completely by a warm solution of caustic soda.

Cloth may be tested by unravelling a corner of a piece of cloth, lighting it with a match. If the flame runs along, and goes out, leaving a brown ash, and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it contains cotton. If it burns and curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ashes black like charcoal, and is gritty when rubbed between the thumb and finger, it is a pretty sure indication, that it is all wool.

The strength of a piece of cloth, may be tested by a thread removed from the goods, by holding one end with the right hand, and the other with the left. Pull, and if it breaks off short, it is not a strong piece of goods, and would not wear well; but if it pulls out long and stringy, and upon examination one finds the fiber from one to two inches long, this may be considered a good piece of goods, and would wear well.

Silk may be tested by unravelling an end, and burning the threads. If the ash is brown and is smooth when rubbed between the thumb and finger, this would not be considered pure dye silk. If, however, when lighted, it curls up into a ball at the end, and goes out, and the ash black and when rubbed between the thumb and finger, and is gritty like charcoal, one may feel sure that it is pure dye stuff and will give excellent wear and will not crack.

LESSON X.

PRICE LIST FOR CLEANING AND PRESSING. REPAIRING AND RELINING EXTRA.

Price list for cleaning and pressing the following garments. Repairing and relining =extra=:

Business Suits, Tuxedos Suits, Dress Suits, Overcoats, Ladies'

Coats and Jackets, $1.00 and upwards.

Single Vests and Trousers, 25c. each and upward.

Ladies' Skirts, 75 cents and upward.

Coats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 extra.