The Copeland Method Part 8

Ladies' Coats, Jackets and Skirts, steam or dry cleaned $1.00 extra.

Vests and Trousers, 50 cents extra.

Overcoats, all kinds, steam or dry cleaned, $1.00 to $2.00 extra.

Relining Coats, $3.00 and upward; Vests, $1.25 and upward.

New Waist Band Lining for Trousers, 75c. and upward.

New Velvet Collars, $1.50 and upward.

Single Velvet Collars to buy, cost from 50 cents upward.

New Silk Facings, $3.00 and upward per yard.

Body Lining costs from 50 cents upward per yard.

Sateen Sleeve and Vest Lining costs from 25 cents upward per yard.

Silk and Satin Linings cost from $2.00 and upward per yard.

Velvet by the yard costs from $3.00 upward.

Workmen are usually paid from 20 cents to 30 cents per hour. Customers are usually charged 50 cents per hour for time required to do the work.

All work done must be figured by the time required to do the work.

LESSON XI.

HOW TO DRESS AND WHAT TO WEAR.

=How to dress well.= The first thought to consider in supplying our wardrobe, is the material. Let it be of good quality. Cheap stuff is never good unless it is good quality at a low price.

One good suit of clothes, or dress, gives better satisfaction (in lasting qualities, appearance and general makeup) than two suits at the same price.

A well selected piece of goods, tailored by a reliable tailor, always looks well, and may be kept repaired, cleaned and pressed into shape occasionally, a fact that few men properly understand. While the low priced suit never has the look of that of a well fitted tailored suit, and cannot be kept looking as neat.

Made to order garments are always fitted and made better (if by a reliable maker). In this way, one has the privilege of trying on and be fitted; then when a perfect pattern has been made for you, your future garments may be made from that pattern (changing the style of course, but keeping the fitting points the same as the pattern.)

Men and women have their individual peculiarities, such as one shoulder low, or one may be sloping shouldered, another square, erect and stooping, etc. All these different variations must be taken into consideration when making custom made garments (or garments made to one's individual measurements), and all well dressed men and women should have their garments made to order. They are more easily cleaned, pressed and repaired, for their building and make up has been studied and put together by skilled mechanics.

Men of limited capital who do not wish to spend much money on dress, should wear dark materials for suitings. Dark morning suits may be worn on many occasions when a light suit would be bad taste. Fas.h.i.+on should be followed, but avoid extremes. The wrinkles and bags at the knees should be pressed out frequently. Close woven cloth keeps its shape in garments better. The vest should always be b.u.t.toned. Remove b.u.t.tons on all garments as soon as they show sign of wearing, and replace with new.

Skirted coats and vests should be made to fit closely around the waist, and loose over the chest to give the wearer that athletic appearance.

This tends to make the wearer stand straighter.

On the other hand, if a coat or vest is tight over the chest, it tends to make the wearer stoop. The carriage of men who do not wear suspenders, is generally better than those who wear them.

When a single breasted coat or vest is too tight across the chest, in many cases it is beyond remedy, as the tailor cannot add anything to the front after the garment is completed.

Double breasted coats and vests, however, are different, on these; the b.u.t.tons may be moved a trifle toward the front edge, thereby giving more breathing room over the chest, which is very much needed, and adds to the appearance of the garment.

Single breasted sack overcoats, with fly front, are most desirable from every point of view. The man of taste and refinement always selects dark, quiet colors for his overcoats.

Men of taste who carry canes, select those that are strong, plain, light and small. Large canes are in very bad taste for young men.

A white necktie should never be worn except with a full dress suit, save by clergymen, and a few elderly men who never wear any other color.

A high silk hat should not be worn with a sack suit. A low hat should not be worn with a double breasted frock or Prince Albert.

Straw hats should not be worn, only with light summer suits. Dark suits are preferred on Sundays, especially in town, and light suits should never be worn to church anywhere.

Double breasted frock coats should be made of black or grey materials.

At small informal gatherings, most men consider themselves sufficiently dressed when they wear black frock coats and dark trousers. It is not necessary for men to wear dress suits where ladies are required to be in full dress. At public entertainments, restaurants and cafes, for example, where the ladies wear their bonnets, the man who wears a black frock coat, dark trousers, and light kid gloves, is better dressed; because more appropriately, than he, who wears a full dress suit.

'Tis true, the practice of wearing such a suit occasions additional expense, as otherwise a business suit, or walking suit, and a dress suit may be made to serve all occasions.

When at home, every man goes in for comfort, however it will be well to remember that it is not polite to appear at the table, whether they are strangers or not, or will show himself to any one with whom he is not on a familiar footing, in his s.h.i.+rt sleeves.

A gentleman for an evening visit, should always be in evening dress.

Dress coat, vest and trousers, white linen and white cravat (a black cravat is permissible, but not in full dress.)

For a dinner party, ball or opera, a man must wear a white cravat. Watch fob is very fas.h.i.+onable.

On Sunday afternoons and evening at home, gentlemen are permitted to wear frock coats, and to regard the day as an "off" one, unless invited to a grand dinner, then you must wear the dress suit.

Men are always ungloved, except when riding or driving.

Colored s.h.i.+rts and flannel s.h.i.+rts are worn in the morning, often until the dinner hour in the summer, and it is proper to go to an informal breakfast in the informal dress of the tennis ground.

For a formal luncheon, a man must dress himself in black frock coat, a colored necktie, and grey or drab stripe trousers, and white s.h.i.+rt.

For lawn tennis,--flannel s.h.i.+rts, rough coats, knickerbockers, long grey, woolen stockings, and string shoes.

Simplicity, neatness, and fitness mark the gentleman.

Good clothes, manners, breeding, and education, admit one to the better circles of society. It is not sufficient to do as others do, but we must dress as they do when we go out in the world.

He is best dressed, whose dress attracts least attention, and in order to attract attention, one's dress must be seasonable, appropriate, and conform to the prevailing fas.h.i.+on, without going to extreme, and to appear comfortable.

=Evening Dress=:--For all formal events after six o'clock, b.a.l.l.s, formal dinners, opera and theater, receptions and weddings.

Overcoat--Chesterfield, Inverness, or Skirted.

Coat--Evening dress coat.