Early English Meals and Manners Part 39

[Footnote 87: Way, manner. Plyte or state (plight, P.). _Status._ P. Parv.]

[Footnote 88: A sort of gristle, the tendon of the neck. Germ.

_flachse_, Brockett. And see Wheatley's Dict. of Reduplicated Words.]

[Footnote 89: The 'canelle boon' between the hind legs must be the pelvis, or pelvic arch, or else the _ilium_ or haunch-bone: and in cutting up the rabbit many good carvers customarily disjoint the haunch-bones before helping any one to the rump. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 90: Rabet, yonge conye, _Cunicellus_. P. Parv. 'The Conie beareth her _Rabettes_ x.x.x dayes, and then kindeleth, and then she must be bucked againe, for els she will eate vp hir _Rabets_. 1575. Geo. Turbervile, The Booke of Venerie, p. 178, ch.

63.' --H. H. Gibbs.]

[Footnote 91: slices, or rather strips.]

[Footnote 92: board-cloth, table-cloth.]

[Footnote 93: Part IV. of _Liber Cure Cocorum_, p. 38-42, is 'of bakun mete.' On Dishes and Courses generally, see _Randle Holme_, Bk. III. Chap. III. p. 77-86.]

[Footnote 94: rere a _cofyn_ of flowre so fre. _L. C. C._, p. 38, l. 8. The crust of a raised pie.]

[Footnote 95: _for_ thin; _see line_ 486.]

[Footnote 96: ? A dish of batter somewhat like our Yorks.h.i.+re Pudding; not the _Crustade_ or pie of chickens, pigeons, and small birds of the _Household Ordinances_, p. 442, and Crustate of flesshe of _Liber Cure_, p. 40.]

[Footnote 97: ? _buche de bois._ A logge, backe stocke, or great billet. Cot. I suppose the _buche_ to refer to the manner of _checkering_ the custard, buche-wise, and not to be a dish.

Venison is 'chekkid,' l. 388-9. This rendering is confirmed by _The Boke of Keruynge's_ "Custarde, cheke them inch square" (in Keruynge of Flesshe). Another possible rendering of _buche_ as a dish of batter or the like, seems probable from the 'Bouce Jane, a dish in Ancient Cookery' (Wright's Prov^l. Dict^y.), but the recipe for it in Household Ordinances, p. 431, shows that it was a stew, which could not be checkered or squared. It consisted of milk boiled with chopped herbs, half-roasted chickens or capons cut into pieces, 'pynes and raysynges of corance,' all boiled together. In _Household Ordinances_, p. 162-4, _Bouche_, or _Bouche of court_, is used for allowance. The 'Knights and others of the King's Councell,' &c., had each 'for their _Bouch_ in the morning one chet loafe, one manchet, one gallon of ale; for afternoone, one manchett, one gallon of ale; for after supper, one manchett, &c.']

[Footnote 98: See the recipe, end of this volume. In Sir John Howard's Household Books is an entry in 1467, 'for viij bosh.e.l.les of flour for _dowsetes_ vj s. viij d.' p. 396, ed. 1841. See note 5 to l. 699, below.]

[Footnote 99: The last recipe in _The Forme of Cury_, p. 89, is one for Payn Puff, but as it refers to the preceding receipt, that is given first here.

THE PETY P{ER}UAU{N}T.[*] XX IX.XV.[= 195]

Take male Marow. hole parade, and kerue it rawe; powd{our} of Gyng{ur}, yolk{is} of Ayren{e}, dat{is} mynced, raisons of corance, salt a lytel, & loke {a}t {o}u make y past with ?olkes of Ayren, & at no wat{er} come {er}to; and fo{ur}me y coffyn, and make up y past.

PAYN PUFF XX IX.XVI[= 196]

Eodem m{odo} fait payn puff, but make it more tendre ^e past, and loke ^e past be rou{n}de of ^e payn puf as a coffyn & a pye.

Randle Holme treats of Puffe, Puffs, and Pains, p. 84, col. 1, 2, but does not mention _Payn Puff_. 'Payn puffe, and pety-pettys, and cuspis and doucettis,' are mentioned among the last dishes of a service on Flessh-Day (_H. Ord._, p. 450), but no recipe for either is given in the book.]

[Footnote 99*: Glossed _Petypanel, a Marchpayne._ Leland, Coll. vi. p. 6. Pegge.]

[Footnote 100: In lines 707, 748, the _pety perueys_ come between the fish and pasties. I cannot identify them as fish. I suppose they were pies, perhaps _The Pety Peruaunt_ of note 2 above; or better still, the fish-pies, _Petipetes_ (or _pety-pettys_ of the last note), which Randle Holme says 'are Pies made of Carps and Eels, first roasted, and then minced, and with Spices made up in Pies.']

[Footnote 101: De cibi elecc{i}one: (Sloane MS. 1986, fol. 59 b, and elsewhere,) "Frixa nocent, elixa fouent, a.s.sata cohercent."]

[Footnote 102: Meat, sage, & poached, fritters?]

[Footnote 103: Recipe in _L. Cure_, p. 39.]

[Footnote 104: There is a recipe 'for a Tansy Cake' in _Lib. C._, p. 50. Cogan says of _Tansie_,-- "it auoideth fleume.... Also it killeth worms, and purgeth the matter whereof they be engendred.

Wherefore it is much vsed among vs in England, about Easter, with fried Egs, not without good cause, to purge away the fleume engendred of fish in Lent season, whereof worms are soone bred in them that be thereto disposed." Tansey, says Bailey (_Dict.

Domestic.u.m_) is recommended for the dissipating of wind in the stomach and belly. He gives the recipe for 'A Tansy' made of spinage, milk, cream, eggs, grated bread and nutmeg, heated till it's as thick as a hasty pudding, and then baked.]

[Footnote 105: Slices or strips of meat, &c., in sauce. See note to l. 516, p. 34.]

[Footnote 106: Recipe 'For Sirup,' _Liber Cure_, p. 43, and 'Syrip for a Capon or Faysant,' _H. Ord._ p. 440.]

[Footnote 107: potages, soups.]

[Footnote 108: Soppes in Fenell, Slitte Soppes, _H. Ord._ p. 445.]

[Footnote 109: Recipe for a Cawdel, _L. C. C._ p. 51.]

[Footnote 110: Recipes for Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes, and Gele of Flesshe, _H. Ord._ p. 437.]

[Footnote 111: A.S. _roppas_, the bowels.]

[Footnote 112: "leeche" is a slice or strip, _H. Ord._ p. 472 (440), p. 456 (399)--'cut hit on _leches_ as. .h.i.t were pescoddes,'

p. 439,--and also a stew or dish in which strips of pork, &c., are cooked. See Leche Lumbarde, _H. Ord._ p. 438-9. Fr. _lesche_, a long slice or s.h.i.+ue of bread, &c. Cot. _Hic lesca Ae_, scywe (s.h.i.+ve or slice), Wright's Vocab. p. 198: _hec lesca_, a schyfe, p. 241. See also Mr Way's long note 1, Prompt. Parv., p. 292, and the recipes for 64 different "Leche vyaundys" in MS. Harl. 279, that he refers to.]

[Footnote 113: For Potages see Part I. of _Liber Cure Cocorum_, p. 7-27.]

[Footnote 114: Recipe for Potage de Frumenty in _H. Ord._ p. 425, and for Furmente in _Liber Cure_, p. 7, _H. Ord._ p. 462.]

[Footnote 115: Recipe 'For gruel of fors,' _Lib. C._ p. 47, and _H. Ord._ p. 425.]

[Footnote 116: ? minced or powdered beef: Fr. _gravelle_, small grauell or sand. Cot. 'Powdred motoun,' l. 533, means sprinkled, salted.]

[Footnote 117: Recipes for 'Mortrewes de Chare,' _Lib. C._ p. 9; 'of fysshe,' p. 19; blanched, p. 13; and _H. Ord._ pp. 438, 454, 470.]

[Footnote 118: b.u.t.ter of Almonde mylke, _Lib. C._ p. 15; _H. Ord._ p. 447.]

[Footnote 119: See the recipe, p. 145.]

[Footnote 120: Recipe for _Tartlotes_ in _Lib. C. C._ p. 41.]

[Footnote 121: Recipe for _Cabaches_ in _H. Ord._ p. 426, and _caboches_, p. 454, both the vegetable. There is a fish _caboche_ in the 15th cent. Nominale in Wright's Vocab. _Hic caput, A^e_, Caboche, p. 189, col. 1, the bullhead, or miller's thumb, called in French _chabot_.]

[Footnote 122: See two recipes for Nombuls in _Liber Cure_, p. 10, and for 'Nombuls of a Dere,' in _H. Ord._ p. 427.]

[Footnote 123: For Sauces (_Salsamenta_) see Part II. of _Liber Cure_, p. 27-34.]

[Footnote 124: Recipe 'for lumbardus Mustard' in _Liber Cure_, p. 30.]

[Footnote 125: Fleshe _poudred_ or salted. _Caro salsa, vel salita_. Withals.]

[Footnote 126: The juice of unripe grapes. See _Maison Rustique_, p. 620.]

[Footnote 127: Chaudwyn, l. 688 below. See a recipe for "Chaudern for Swannes" in _Household Ordinances_, p. 441; and for "andon (MS. chaudon [*]) for wylde digges, swannus and piggus," in _Liber Cure_, p. 9, and "Sawce for swannus," _Ibid._ p. 29. It was made of chopped liver and entrails boiled with blood, bread, wine, vinegar, pepper, cloves, and ginger.]