Rouen, Its History and Monuments Part 5

Formerly this little church was very curious in some of its portions. It is the only one in Rouen, which offers the three semi-circular _absides_, which we find in most of the monuments of the XIth century.

The middle is the highest and projects farther out than the other two.

There is a row of curious figures on the outside of the edifice in its whole circ.u.mference: some of which are represented with great moustaches. According to Mr Cotman, who has remarked figures of a similar description in different parts of Normandy, these great moustaches must at first have been a satire upon the Saxons who wore them, when at the same time the Normans had their heads completely shaved. Robert Wace tells us that at the battle of Hastings the English took the Normans for an army of priests.

In the interior of the edifice, the triple choir was separated from the nave by a semi-circular arcade, the capital of which was covered with sculptures, which have been unfortunately destroyed. This nave was modern, and dated only from the commencement of the XVIIth century, the most ancient portion is from the commencement of the XIth century.

The modern portion was destroyed some years since. A new church in the form of an ancient basilica has been erected close to it, from the designs of Mr Du Boullay. Antiquaries will learn with pleasure that the administration of the town has taken measures to preserve the three _absides_ of the ancient little edifice, with the intention of using it as a sacristy to the new church.

The walk, at the extremity of which the church of Saint-Paul is situated, was formed in 1692 and 1693; but was only the planted in 1729.

The whole s.p.a.ce from watering place to the foot of mount Saint-Catherine was formerly a vast meadow with a few gardens. The road when finished was called the _Chemin neuf_; it is now called the _cours Dauphin_, so named in memory of the birth of the dauphin, son of Lewis XVth.

At the extremity of this avenue there are several springs of mineral waters. They are called the waters of Saint-Paul, from the name of the parish. There are also several of similar description in the quarter Martainville, called la Marequerie.

PROTESTANT WORs.h.i.+P.

SAINT-eLOI.

Before the Seine was enclosed in its present bed, the church of Saint-Eloi was situated on an Island. Afterwards, without changing place, it found itself situated on the _terres neuves_, like the other churches, Saint-Etienne-des-Tonneliers, Saint-Clement, and Saint-Martin-du-Pont. In 1030, under the duke Robert, those new lands were considered as suburbs of Rouen: _In suburbia Rotomagensi ecclesiam sancti Eligii_, etc.

The church of Saint-Eloi was formerly considered as one of the best lighted in the town of Rouen. There were, a short time since, but are now walled up, three windows, of which the painted gla.s.s was executed in the XVIth century; they have been transferred to Saint-Mary's, to ornament the museum of antiquities. Formerly there was a well in the choir, but which is now filled up, from which the water was drawn up by a chain, from whence the proverb, still used in Rouen, is derived: It is cold as the chain of the well of Saint-Eloi.

This church has been granted for protestant wors.h.i.+p, since 1803. The number of persons who profess this wors.h.i.+p in Rouen, is about 2,000. The service commences at eleven o'clock in the morning. English service is also performed in this church at three o'clock in the afternoon.

The _place Saint-Eloi_ does not offer any thing worthy of notice; it was the ancient burying ground of the parish of that name: and has since become the poultry and game market.

CHURCHES CLOSED IN 1791,

WHICH DESERVE THE ATTENTION OF THE ANTIQUARY.

SAINT-PIERRE-DU-CHATEL,

At the top of the rue Nationale.

This religious edifice, which is of the XVth century, did not offer any thing remarkable but its tower, which is entire.

SAINT-ANDRe-DANS-LA-VILLE,

Rue aux Ours, near the rue de la Vicomte, was erected between the years 1526 and 1557.

SAINT-eTIENNE-DES-TONNELIERS,

At the corner of the street of that name, and the rue des Iroquois.

The construction of this edifice, dates from the commencement of the XVIth century.

SAINT-PIERRE-L'HONORe,

Rue des Bons-Enfans, at the corner of the rue Ecuyere.

SAINTE-CROIX,

Rue Sainte-Croix-des-Pelletiers, at the top of the street.

SAINT-SePULCHRE,

At the corner of the streets Saint-George and de la Vicomte.

SAINT-LAURENT,

In the street of that name. Its tower merits princ.i.p.ally the attention of the traveller; it was commenced in 1490 and finished in 1501. The screen of Saint-Laurent was considered a chef-d'uvre of architecture.

CIVIL MONUMENTS.

HoTEL-DE-VILLE (TOWN-HALL).

The modern building which stands near the northern transept of the church of Saint-Ouen was the dormitory of the monks. It is now the town hall. The offices occupy the ground and first floor, the library and gallery of paintings the second. The great stair-case is remarkable for its elegance and lightness; it has been compared to that at Somerset house. On the first landing we find in a niche, the statue of Lewis XVth in his youth, from the chisel of Lemoine. The great stair-case, next the church, constructed from the designs of Lebrument, the architect of the Madeleine, is distinguished by the boldness of its architecture; it leads to the library and gallery of paintings. The new facade of the town hall is composed of two wings which are parallel at their extremities, and a peristyle between the two former, but which does not so far project. Two columns of the corinthian order support the pediment, on which the armorial bearings of the town are sculptured; they are supported on one side by Mercury and the attributes of Commerce, and on the other by Industry in the likeness of Minerva. On the first floor of the southern wing, there is a very fine room, which is used for the meetings of the munic.i.p.al body; one of the rooms on the second floor has been devoted to the meetings of the royal academy, their former room having been joined to the public library.

The ancient town-hall, which was built in the year 1608, was situated at the corner of the rue Thouret and the rue de la Grosse-Horloge, and near the tower of the belfry; the only portion of this building which remains, is that which faces the rue Thouret. This edifice having fallen into ruin, it was decided that a new town-hall should be erected. In 1757, a plan was adopted, and the monument was to be raised at the western extremity of the old market place; but after having laid out one million of francs, on the foundations alone, they became terrified at the enormous sum, which it would require. The munic.i.p.al administration still possesses the model in relief of the said monument: it was of very curious architecture and may still be seen at the Museum.

ARCHIEPISCOPAL PALACE.

This edifice adjoins the Cathedral church. The princ.i.p.al body of the building, which faces the street, was begun and partly finished in 1461, by the cardinal d'Estouteville; but death overtook this prelate before he had completed the whole. It does not appear that his successor, Robert de Croixmare, continued the works. It was, according to Farin, the cardinal George d'Amboise Ist, who terminated the edifice. The only remarkable portion of the interior of this edifice is that named the _gallery of the states_. It is decorated with four large paintings by Robert. They represent views of Havre, Dieppe, Rouen and Gaillon, the once celebrated chateau of the archbishops of Rouen, and built by the cardinal d'Amboise Ist, with the savings which he made from his salary, from the profits of his legation, and from the large fines which he levied, with the knowledge of the king, on the rebel towns of Italy.

In 1508, when Lewis XIIth with his queen came to Rouen, he alighted at the archiepiscopal palace. The dauphin Francis of Valois, son of Francis Ist, inhabited it also in 1531.

The modern building which looks on the garden, and which is to the right on entering, was erected at the commencement of the last century. The library, which is appropriated to the chapter of the cathedral, is situated on the first floor.

PALACE OF JUSTICE.