Rouen, Its History and Monuments Part 6

When we say that the Palais-de-Justice was erected by Lewis XIIth, in 1499, as a court of exchecquer, which that prince had arranged should be held at Rouen, we must not comprehend that part of the building called the _salle des Procureurs_, or attorneys hall, which dates from 1493, and which was erected (as we have mentioned at the article exchange), as a place of meeting for the merchants of the town. Even at the present time, this hall calls forth the admiration of the best architects. Its length is one hundred and fifty feet, by fifty in breadth. Its lofty roof is not supported by a single pillar; the ingenuity of the work is here contrasted with its boldness of conception. The only ornaments which decorate the walls of the hall are elegant empty niches, which are detached in relief, and at equal distances. The princ.i.p.al staircase, which leads up to the salle des Procureurs, was erected a few years since, under the superintendence of M. Gregoire. The _Conciergerie_ and prisons are situated under this hall.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Palais de Justice]

The Palais-de-Justice, properly so called, forms as it were one side of a square, at the northern extremity of the salle des Procureurs. Its facade, which looks towards the south, is two hundred feet in length, and is ornamented with every thing that the architecture of the time possessed of the richest and most delicate. The angular pillars of the piers are covered with canopied statues and small steeples, which extend from the base to the summit; the numerous ornaments, which surround the windows, those which accompany and surmount the windows of the roof; the leaden bal.u.s.trade which surrounds the roof, the arcades which form a gallery, and are carried along the whole of the entablature, lastly, the elegant octangular turret which occupies the middle of the facade and separates it into two equal parts, are of the greatest beauty and purity of taste, in spite of a certain mixture in the style, which characterizes the transition from gothic architecture to that of the _renaissance_, style which already began to be in use. The name of the architect, unknown till recently, is Roger Ango.

At the farther end of the salle des Procureurs is a door, which leads into the ancient _Grand Chambre_ (great Chamber), in which the court of a.s.sizes are now held. This hall may be considered as the finest in the kingdom. The ceiling, which is divided into sculptured compartments, decorated with gilt bronze ornaments, is of oak to which time has given the appearance of ebony. The whole of the flooring was formerly covered with _arabesques_, according to the custom of the reign of Lewis the XIIth. From this floor, an ancient fire place which existed in the _Chambre de Conseil_, or Counsel Hall, a curious painting which the antiquarian Millin mentions in his _national antiquities_ and on which witnesses were sworn have all disappeared.

On the exterior, only two parts of this elegant edifice, that which is exposed to the setting sun, and the middle one to the south, have retained their primitive beauty. The latter is now under repair and renovation. At the commencement of the last century, the modern portion of the building which faces the west, was erected. The front of this building fell to the ground on the 10th of april 1812, and brought down with it the whole ceiling, which was painted by the celebrated Jouvenet, who, having his right hand paralysed, painted with his left, and in a manner worthy of such a painter, the _Triumph of Justice_.

Considerable embellishments have taken place in the court of the Palais.

The ma.s.sive flight of stone steps, which led to the _salle des Procureurs_, and which especially hid from view the beautiful angular turret, has been removed. A new staircase has been erected at the middle of the facade, before the door of the prisons, the entrance to which, is at the side. This staircase is composed of a single straight flight, of five metres (fifteen feet) in breadth, and is crowned by a porch in the style of the building. The ancient wall, which closed the court on the side of the rue aux Juifs, has been replaced by a cast iron railing, in the gothic style. The front of the Palais being thus exposed to view, the aspect of the edifice becomes as imposing as picturesque. Behind the Palais-de-Justice, in the rue Saint-Lo, is a large building, which answers the purpose of a court of appeals, for the _cour royale_. The offices of the town-hall were established here during the revolution. It was formerly the residence of the first presidents of the parliament of Normandy.

TOWER DE LA GROSSE-HORLOGE.

The following inscription, which is engraved on a bra.s.s plate, and is perfectly well preserved, is placed above the door at the foot of the staircase.

En lan de lincarnarian nee segour. mil ccc.xx.iiii. et neuf. fu comence rest berfrop: et Es ans ensuiuas iusques en lan mil.

ccc.xx.iiii. et xviii. fu fait et parfait. ou quel temps n.o.ble home mess. Guille de Bellengues rheunllier chambellen di Roy nostre Sire estoit cappitaine de reste ville. honorable home pourneu et sage Johan de la tuille bailly. et sire Guillaumealorge. Johan mustel. Guille de gaugy. Richart de sommery. Nicolae le roux.

Gaultier campion, ronseillers de la Dicteville. et pierres hermes reseueur d'icelle.

Proceeding on, we ascend the tower of the belfry, by a flight of two hundred steps, at the top of which is the bell, with the following inscription:

JE SUI: NOMME: ROUVEL: ROEJEN: LE SENON: ME SJSE: SERE: REGAN: DAMJENS: ME FJST

We perceive by this inscription, that this bell was named _Rouvel_, and not _Rembol_, as tradition would have it; but it is better known under the name of the Cloche d'argent (silver bell), although not a grain of silver entered into the composition of it. It rings every night at nine o'clock. It also rings peals on occasion of any national rejoicings or public calamities. This bell was made in the year 1447; it was then called the _horloge du Beffroi_. The stone vault, which crosses the street, at the place still called _porte Ma.s.sacre_ (the murder gate) was erected in 1527. On each side of this arcade, we perceive the dial plates and medallions.

Under the Vault, in the centre, we see sculptures representing a shepherd tending sheep. On each of the sides, are other sheep grazing.

To the left, and facing the old market place, we may read the following inscription: _Animam suam ponit pro ovibus suis_, which indicates sufficiently the allegory of this composition, if we did not also see on the opposite side these other words: _Pastor bonus_.

Beside the arcade, but nearer to the rue des Vergetiers, the tower of the Belfry rises. We perceive a platform at the top of the tower, surrounded by an iron railing, from whence is a view of the whole town.

Above is a dome, surmounted by a small steeple.

THE COVERED MARKETS.

About the middle of the Xth century, Richard Ist, surnamed _Sans-Peur_, and third duke of Normandy, caused a palace to be erected on the Seine, which consisted of a large tower and served at the same time as a defence to the town. It was also the state prison. Henry Ist added several buildings. Several fortifications had been previously erected, the former being then called the Vielle-Tour (old Tower). This tower was destroyed by Philip-Augustus; it was there, according to the greater number of historians, that in 1204 the cruel John-Sans-Terre caused his nephew, Arthur of Britanny, to be confined, and murdered him with his own hand. The present _halles_ (covered markets) occupy the greater portion of the site formerly occupied by the palace and the _Vieille-Tour_, which has left its name to the two markets we are presently going to speak of.

Those vast warehouses for different manufactures, called _halles_ (or marts), were erected in the second half of the XIIIth century, about the time when Lewis IXth fixed the fifth enclosure of the town of Rouen. These marts are considered the most important in France. The most considerable portion, and also the most ancient of the whole building, is set apart for the sale of linen cloths. Its length is two hundred and seventy two feet, by fifty in breadth. The roof is supported by two rows of stone pillars. The two other marts, one for coton stuffs and the other for worsted stuffs and cloth, are each two hundred feet in length. These marts were open till about the year 1493, at which time they were enclosed, to prevent vagabonds taking shelter in them. The linen mart separates the market which is held on this place in to two unequal portions. The larger occupies the north side, and is called the _place de la Haute-Vieille-Tour_; it is reserved for the sale of old linen, old utensils and particularly for the sale of crockery and gla.s.s ware. The second occupies the south side, and is called the Ba.s.se-Vieille-Tour, because it is considerably lower than the other portion. Several kinds of eatables are sold here, especially fish.

There formerly existed a very beautiful fountain in the middle of the higher place, which was composed of a triangular pyramid, surmounted by a statue of Alexander; but not the least vestige of it remains. The present fountain is supplied with water from the Gaalor spring.

Near the linen-mart, we observe a remarkable edifice, which projects from the rest of the building, called the monument of Saint-Romain. This structure however does not form part of the marts, to which it has not the least resemblance. Neither did it form apart, of the palace of the ancient dukes of Normandy, as some persons still believe. The style of its architecture sufficiently indicates the time of its erection, namely 1542. The corinthian order of architecture appears in the whole height of the building. It was on the first floor that the celebrated old ceremony, called the _levee de la Fierte_, for the delivrance of a prisoner, took place every year.[18]

In the neighbourhood of the linen and cotton marts, is the corn mart; it is three hundred feet in length, its breadth being in proportion. It is open three days in the week: mondays, wednesdays and fridays: the two others marts are open only on fridays.

[Footnote 18: To have all accounts of this ceremony, see the work of Mr Floquet, ent.i.tled: _Histoire du Privilige de Saint-Romain_, etc,--Rouen, E. Le Grand, 1833, 2 vol. 8vo.]

THE EXCHANGE.

Untill the year 1493, the merchants of Rouen had no place of meeting alloted to transact their commercial affairs. They met however, in the cathedral but, without authorisation. The munic.i.p.al authorities, wis.h.i.+ng to put a stop to this state of things, made an arrangement with the bailiff of Rouen, who issued a decree: That there should be erected at the lower end of the New-Market place, and at the expense of the town, a large stone building, and on the second floor of this edifice, a large hall was to be reserved for the use of the merchants of the town, those of other nations also having the same right, to meet and transact their affairs; which hall is to be named, for the future, the common town hall.

The stone building here spoken of, is that vast wing, which closes the court of the _Palais-de-Justice_ to the west; and the common town hall is that known under the name of _Salle des Procureurs_ or _des Pas-Perdus_.

About the year 1664, the merchants company obtained a portion of ground on the quay, where they met untill 1827. Since then, that portion of ground has been given up to enlarge the quay. The meridian which ornamented this ancient exchange, is now placed in the garden of the town hall. Since the straightening of the quay, the uncovered exchange has been placed before the _Consuls_--(or covered exchange) so that the one might communicate with the other: it occupies the portion of ground, which is situated between the rue Nationale and the rue des Iroquois, and is surrounded by an iron railing.

TRIBUNAL OF COMMERCE,

COMMONLY NAMED THE CONSULS.

It is in the gallery on the ground floor, that the merchants meet, when the rainy weather does not permit their meeting in the uncovered exchange: This was formerly the _Juridiction consulaire_; so its destination has not been changed since the tribunal of commerce is established here. In the middle of the gallery on the ground floor, and to the right on entering from the quay, we remark a handsome staircase, which is formed by a double flight of steps, from the first landing.

Before the revolution, the statue of Louis XVth was placed here.

This staircase leads up to the audience hall of the chamber of commerce, which is the most remarkable of the three rooms which compose the first floor of the building. It is ornamented, with a fine picture of Christ by Van Dyck. In one of the neighbouring rooms are two paintings of large dimensions, by Lemonnier, a native of Rouen. One of these paintings represents the audience given by Louis XVIth to the Chamber of commerce of Rouen, on the 28th june 1786, in the great hall of the archbishop's palace, called the _Salle des etats_. All the figures are of natural size, and are striking likenesses. The subject of the other painting is allegorical.

There are three different entrances to this edifice, one from the rue Nationale, another from the rue des Charrettes and a third from the Quay.

THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.

The edifice containing the ancient custom-house being a great deal too small and inconvenient for that purpose, it became indispensable to erect another building. For this object, the munic.i.p.al administration opened a public compet.i.tion on the 14th october 1833, for the erection of another edifice. In the month of may 1834, the preference was given to the plan of Mr Ed. Isabelle, a distinguished architect in Paris, who was charged with putting his plan into execution. The excavations were commenced on the 17th february 1835, in the presence of the mayor, the munic.i.p.al council, etc., and the building was terminated in 1838.

The architectural appearance of this edifice reminds us a little of the severe style of the florentine architecture; the large doorway is ornamented with the attributes of commerce, as likewise the coping of the edifice; two bas-reliefs, of eight and a half feet high, and sculptured on stone by David, representing the _symbols of navigation and commerce_, decorate the middle of the facade on the first floor.

This building is situated on the _Havre quay_, a little farther on than the old one. It has three entrances: the princ.i.p.al, on the quay, leads into a large rectangular court, which is covered with a cupola of cast-iron; opposite to the entrance of this court, is placed against the wall the fine bas-relief, which ornamented the front of the old custom-house, a very handsome piece of workmans.h.i.+p by Coustou, a statuary of the XVIIIth century; it represents Mercury with the different attributes of commerce. Two other entrances from the quay lead to the offices and dwellings of some higher persons attached to the customs. The lateral entrances serve as outlets to merchandise after having been searched or examined in the covered court.

The bonded and examining warehouses are on the ground floor, as likewise the offices of the comptroller, sub-comptroller and searchers; the entresole is destined for other offices; the first floor is occupied with the dwelling and offices of the director; and lastly, the second story contains the dwelling of the princ.i.p.al receiver and the residing comptroller.

_The entrepot reel_, is situated, behind the new custom-house; this warehouse is used for warehousing merchandise after the duties, have been paid. The front of this edifice which is situated in the _rue des Charrettes_, was erected in 1826.

PUBLIC SLAUGHTERHOUSE.

_Rue de Sotteville, suburb of Saint-Sever._

For a long time the munic.i.p.al council had occupied themselves with the idea of endowing the town with an establishment of this description, the want of which was imperiously felt; numerous plans were presented and discussed; at last, after a thorough examination, the town obtained, by royal ordinance of the 18th august 1833, the authorisation to establish a public and common slaughterhouse, with apparatus for melting the tallow, scalding house and tripe house, on the fine property, which is situated in the _rue de Sotteville_, at the corner of the _avenue de Grammont_, bought for that purpose from Mr Burel.

A public compet.i.tion was opened at the end of the year 1838 for the plans of this establishment, and the prize was decreed, on the 20th march 1834, to _Mr Etienne-Theodore Dommey_, an architect from Paris.

The first stone of this establishment was laid by Mr Hy Barbet, the mayor of Rouen, on the 28th july 1835, in the presence of the civil and military authorities and a large number of spectators.

This important establishment, which was built within the period of two years, and which is now completed, is one of the finest of this description. The expences, including the purchase of the ground, amounted to the sum of 970,000 francs, and the annual product is estimated about 80,000 francs.

The princ.i.p.al entrance is from the _rue de Sotteville_, a handsome gateway between two gate houses gives a view of the whole building. The total superficies of the buildings is of seven thousand three hundred and thirty seven metres, or about the same number of yards.

s.p.a.cious streets and avenues planted with trees permit of a free access to all parts of the establishment. It is well supplied with water, and has a ca.n.a.l to carry off the dirty water of the establishment, which allows its being kept very clean.

To visit the slaughterhouse, apply to the secretary general's office at the town hall.