The Idler in France Part 29

Adieu a Paris! two years and a half ago I entered you with gladness, and the future looked bright; I leave you with altered feelings, for the present is cheerless and the future clouded.

NOTES

[1: Now Baron d'Haussey.]

[2: The hermitage was lent him by Madame d'Epinay, to whom his subsequent ingrat.i.tude forms a dark page in her _Memoires_.]

[3: The present Lord Abinger.]

[4: Now Lord Glenelg.]

[5: Now Lord Francis Egerton.]

[6: Now Madame emile de Girardin.]

[7: "Where thou beholdest Genius, There thou beholdest, too, the martyr's crown."]

[8: The present Earl of Cadogan.]

[9: The Duc de Guiche, being _premier menin_ to the Dauphin, used, according to custom, the arms and liveries of that prince.]

[10: Now Marechal.]

INDEX TO THE CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

NISMES.

Antiquities of this City--The Hotel du Midi--Articles of Merchandise--History of the Maison Carree--Work of Poldo d'Albenas--The Building described--Origin of it--Now used as a Museum--Monument to Marcus Attius--Cardinal Alberoni--Barbarous Project--Removal of Antiquities--The Amphitheatre described--Charles Martel--Excellent Precaution in Roman Theatres--Inscription--Officious Cicerone--Gate of Augustus--La Tour-Magne--Excavations--Fine Fountain--Temple of Diana--Brevity of Human Life, 1.

CHAPTER II.

TOWN OF ARLES.

Beaucaire--Wooden Houses--Castle of King Rene--Church of St.

Martha--Fabulous Monster--The Hotel described--The Hostess--Antique Furniture--Plentiful Dinner--Scrutiny--Visit to the Amphitheatre--The Prefect of Arles--Subterranean Excavations--Ancient Church of St.

Anne--Altar to the G.o.ddess of Good--Venus of Arles--Granite Obelisk--Primitive Manners--A Liberal Landlady, 14.

CHAPTER III.

ST.-ReMY.

Situation of the Town--Antiquities--The Triumphal Arch described--Male and Female Figures--The Mausoleum--Ba.s.si-relievi of Battles, Infantry, etc.--Figure of a Winged Female--Latin Inscription--Variously explained--Interpretation of Monsieur P. Malosse--Respect for the Departed--On The Triumphal Arch and Mausoleum at St.-Remy, 21.

CHAPTER IV.

LYONS.

The _Fete Dieu_--Procession through the Streets--Ecclesiastical and Military Pomp--Decorations in the Streets--Effect produced on the Mind by Sacred Music--Excitements to Religious Fervour--the _Miserere_, 30.

CHAPTER V.

PARIS.

Fatiguing Journey--Landau Accident--The Hotel de la Terra.s.se, in the Rue de Rivoli--Six Years' Absence--The Duc and d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche--Joy of Meeting--Fas.h.i.+on at Paris--Visit to Herhault's Temple of Fas.h.i.+on--Mademoiselle La Touche--Extravagant Charges--Caution to Husbands--A Word, also, to Wives--Visit to Madame Craufurd--Her prepossessing Appearance--House-hunting--Residence of the Marechal Lobau--Review in the Champ-de-Mars--Splendid _Coup d'oeil_--The Marchioness de Loule--Restrictions at Court--Accident to the Comte de Bourmont--Alarm of the Ladies--Charles the Tenth, the Dauphin, and the Dauphine--Melancholy Physiognomy of Charles the First--The d.u.c.h.esse d'Angouleme--Her Trials and Endurance--French Love of Country--The d.u.c.h.esse de Berri--Dinner at the d.u.c.h.esse de Guiche's--William Lock--The Comte de l'Esperance de l'Aigle--His high breeding--The Opera--_Debut_ of Taglioni--Her Poetical Style of Dancing--The Duc de Cazes--French and English Manners contrasted--Attentions to the Fair s.e.x in France--The Comtesses de Bellegarde--Character of the Duc de Gramont--Lady Barbara Craufurd--Count Valeski--Anger of the Marechal Lobau--Defect in French Houses--The _Muette de Portici_--n.o.blet--An old _Danseuse_--Gaiety at Tivoli--Similarity in the Exterior of Parisian Ladies--A Quadrille Party--_Demi-toilette_--Late Tea-Party--Luxurious Chair--Delightful House in the Rue de Bourbon--Its costly Decorations--Its Interior described--The Princesse de la Moskowa--Sad Interview--Marechal Ney, 32.

CHAPTER VI.

Custom of letting out Furniture--The Prince and Princesse Castelcicala--Lady Hawarden--Lady Combermere--Tone of Society at Paris--Attentions paid by Young Men to Old Ladies--Flirtations at Paris--Ceremonious Decorum--Comic Charles de Mornay--Parisian Upholsterers--Rich Furniture--Lord Yarmouth--Elegant Suite of Apartments--Charles Mills--Warm Affections between Relatives in France, 56.

CHAPTER VII.

Domestic Arrangements--Changes in Young People--Pleasant Recollections--Lord Lilford--The Marquis and Marquise Zamperi--Comte Alexander de Laborde--The Marquis de Mornay--Mode of pa.s.sing the Time--Evening Visits in France--Dinner-party--The Duc Dalberg--The Duc de Mouchy--Party to Montmorency--Rousseau's Hermitage--Sensibility, a Characteristic of Genius--Solitude--Letter of Rousseau to Voltaire--Church, of Montmorency--Baths at Enghien--The Comtesse de Gand--Colonel E. Lygon--The Marquis de Dreux-Breze--Contrast between him and the Duc de Talleyrand--The Baron and Baroness de Ruysch--Mr.

Douglas Kinnaird--Sir Francis Burdett--Colonel Leicester Stanhope--The Marquis Palavicini--Charms of Italian Women--Lords Darnley and Charlemont--Mr. Young, the Tragedian--Lord Lansdowne--Estimate of his Character--Sir Robert Peel--Respect for the Memory of Sir William Drummond--Lady Drummond--"Vivian Grey"--Mr. Standish--Intermarriages between the French and the English, 64.

CHAPTER VIII.

Charles Kemble--His Daughter's Tragedy of "Francis the First"--Recollections of John Kemble--The Opera--_Count Ory_--Sir A.

Barnard--Secret of Happiness--Visit to Mademoiselle Mars--Her Residence described--Memorial of her Theatrical Career--The d.u.c.h.esse de la Force--Madame Gra.s.sini--Anecdote of her--Visit to Orsay--Its Situation--The Princesse de Croy--Hamlet of Palaiseau--Drama of _La Pie Voteuse_--Family of the Duc de Guiche--The Vaudeville Theatre--Scribe's _Avant, Pendant, el Apres_--Its Dangerous Tendency--French Ambition--Parisian Shopkeepers--Their Officious Conduct, 78.

CHAPTER IX.

Lord and Lady Stuart de Rothesay--French Politeness--Mr. D---- and Mr.