Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 10

Salt the scaloppine lightly on both sides, using about teaspoon salt in all. Put the b.u.t.ter and remaining olive oil in the skillet, and set it over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, lay as many scaloppine in the pan as you can in one layer (about half the pieces). Cook the first side for a minute or two, just until the meat becomes opaque but doesn't darken; flip the scaloppine, and lightly fry the second side the same way. Remove the first batch of veal to a plate, and fry the remaining scaloppine.

When all the scaloppine have had the first fry, raise the heat and boil off any acc.u.mulated meat liquid until the skillet is nearly dry. Drop in the pestata pestata, stir it around the pan, and let it cook for a couple of minutes, until it's sizzling and rendering fat from the prosciutto. Scatter in the sage leaves, stir, and heat them until sizzling, then pour in the wine and lemon juice. Bring to a boil, and cook to reduce the wine by half. Pour in the stock, heat to a bubbling simmer, and return the scaloppine to the pan, sliding them into the liquid so they're moistened. Toss in the capers, and sprinkle the remaining salt over all.

Adjust the heat to keep the sauce simmering gently and reducing gradually. Cook for about 10 minutes, turning the scaloppine over once or twice, until almost all the moisture has evaporated, concentrating the sauce into a thick coating on the meat and pan bottom.

Remove the skillet from the heat, and sprinkle the parsley over the veal. Tumble the scaloppine over, coating them all with sauce and parsley, and serve immediately. Be sure to sc.r.a.pe every bit of concentrated sauce from the skillet, onto each serving of scaloppine.

SAUSAGES IN THE S SKILLET WITH G GRAPES.

Salsicce all'Uva Serves 6 Serves 6 The Umbrian town of Norcia is, among other distinctions, so famous for the skill of its pork butchers and the quality of their products that the term norcineria norcineria throughout Italy designates a shop that purveys pork and pork specialties of the highest quality-and nothing else. throughout Italy designates a shop that purveys pork and pork specialties of the highest quality-and nothing else.

This is one of the memorable pork dishes that I discovered in Umbria recently. And though there are no sausages better than those made by an Umbrian Norcino in his hometown, this will be wonderful with any good-quality sweet sausage available in yours. The name-Sausages in the Skillet with Grapes-describes the ingredients and cooking method perfectly. Just keep in mind that the cooking here is slow and gentle, not high-temperature grilling as one usually does with sausages.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 8 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 2 pounds sweet Italian sausages sweet Italian sausages, preferably without fennel seeds (8 or more sausages, depending on size) - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 pounds seedless green grapes seedless green grapes, picked from the stem and washed (about 3 cups) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover Pour the olive oil into the skillet, toss in the garlic cloves, and set it over low heat. When the garlic is sizzling, lay in all the sausages in one layer, and cover the pan. Cook the sausages slowly, turning and moving them around the skillet occasionally; after 10 minutes or so, sprinkle the peperoncino in between the sausages. Continue low and slow cooking for 25 to 30 minutes in all, until the sausages are cooked through and nicely browned all over. Remove the pan from the burner, tilt it, and carefully spoon out excess fat.

Set the skillet back over low heat, and scatter in the grapes. Stir and tumble them in the pan bottom, moistening them with meat juices. Cover, and cook for 10 minutes or so, until the grapes begin to soften, wrinkle, and release their own juices. Remove the cover, turn the heat to high, and boil the pan juices to concentrate them to a syrupy consistency, stirring and turning the sausages and grapes frequently to glaze them.

To serve family-style: arrange the sausages on a warm platter, topped with the grapes and pan juices. Or serve them right from the pan (cut in half, if large), spooning grapes and thickened juices over each portion.

PORK C CHOPS WITH C CAPERS.

Costate di Maiale con Capperi Serves 6 Serves 6 Here is another gem from the treasure of pork dishes I found in Umbria, especially around Norcia. Like the preceding recipe for sausages and grapes, this calls for a leisurely approach to cooking, slowly caramelizing the pork and building a fantastic glaze for the chops, with the mingled flavors of lemon, peperoncini, capers, and wine. I always prefer chops on the bone, but you can make this recipe with boneless pork-loin cutlets as well. Since they are usually thinner, they'll need less cooking time, though gentle and slow browning is still called for.

I like to accompany these with an intensely flavored vegetable such as braised broccoli di rape broccoli di rape or mashed parsnips (or both!). or mashed parsnips (or both!).

- 6 bone-in pork loin chops pork loin chops, 1 inch thick, 6 to 8 ounces each - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging, plus more as needed for dredging, plus more as needed - 1 large lemon lemon, sliced in thin rounds - 6 whole Tuscan-style pickled peperoncini peperoncini, drained - 3 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - cup white wine white wine - 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 14-inch diameter Trim the fat from the pork chops, if necessary, leaving only a thin layer, and salt them lightly on both sides, using teaspoon salt in all.

Put the b.u.t.ter and olive oil in the skillet, and set it over medium-low heat. When the b.u.t.ter begins to bubble, scatter in the garlic; let it heat and gently sizzle. Meanwhile, spread the flour on a plate or tray, and dredge the chops on all sides. Shake off excess flour, and lay the chops in the skillet in one layer. (It may appear at first that there's not enough room for all, but as the meat shrinks you will be able to nestle the chops in.) Strew the lemon slices on top of the chops, and drop the peperoncini in between them. Cook the chops slowly, keeping them at a gentle sizzle, turning and moving them in the pan about every 5 minutes, as they take on color gradually and evenly.

After 20 minutes or so, when the pork is lightly browned and caramelized on both sides, scatter in the capers, shake the pan to drop them onto the bottom, and turn up the heat to medium-high. When the capers are sizzling, push the chops aside, and pour the wine and lemon juice into the clear hot spot. Bring to a boil, and shake the pan so the wine flows around all the chops. Sprinkle over pan the remaining salt, and adjust the heat to keep the pan juices bubbling, steadily reducing and thickening. Turn the chops occasionally, so both sides are moistened and evenly cooked.

After about 10 minutes of reducing the liquid, when the juices are syrupy and glaze the chops, remove the pan from the heat. Sprinkle the chopped parsley all over, and give the chops a final turn in the pan. Serve right away, drizzling a bit of the remaining pan sauce over each chop.

HONEY-ORANGE C CRUMB C COOKIES.

Panmelati Makes about 75 pieces Makes about 75 pieces Panmelati are a delightful and surprising confection. Sweet, chewy, orange-infused, and crusted in nuts, they could be mistaken for fancy candy b.a.l.l.s, but they are actually a kind of no-bake cookie, fas.h.i.+oned from a simple dough of bread crumbs cooked in honey. A great way to recycle old bread, these are quickly made, fun to roll, and a delicious treat with tea, coffee, or a dessert wine. are a delightful and surprising confection. Sweet, chewy, orange-infused, and crusted in nuts, they could be mistaken for fancy candy b.a.l.l.s, but they are actually a kind of no-bake cookie, fas.h.i.+oned from a simple dough of bread crumbs cooked in honey. A great way to recycle old bread, these are quickly made, fun to roll, and a delicious treat with tea, coffee, or a dessert wine.

- 4 medium oranges oranges, washed and dried - 2 cups honey honey - 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 2 cups finely chopped toasted walnuts walnuts - Vegetable oil for rolling the cookies for rolling the cookies RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed saucepan, 3-quart capacity; a clean, smooth, hard countertop or other work surface, about 2 feet square, such as a large metal baking sheet; a long metal spatula; parchment-lined tray or baking sheet With a sharp paring knife or vegetable peeler, shave off the peel of the oranges in long strips. Sc.r.a.pe away the bitter white pith from the inside of the peel, then dice the strips of zest into small pieces, about inch square. You should have about a cup of diced peel. (Enjoy the rest of the orange as a fruit.) Pour the honey into the saucepan, set the pan over medium heat, and stir in the cut orange peel. Slowly bring the honey to a simmer, and cook, stirring frequently, until the squares of peel are slightly translucent, about 3 minutes.

Stir the bread crumbs and 1 cup of the chopped walnuts into the honey, and return to a simmer. Stirring frequently, simmer the mixture gently for 6 minutes or so, until the bread crumbs have absorbed most of the honey, forming a dough that pulls away from the sides of the pan. Take the pan off the heat.

With a brush or your fingers, spread a thin film of vegetable oil on your clean countertop or other hard work surface. Sc.r.a.pe the dough out of the pan onto the oiled surface and, with the lightly oiled blade of the metal spatula, spread it into a rough round or oblong layer, about inch thick.

Pour the remaining cup of chopped walnuts onto a plate or tray. Rub a bit of vegetable oil on your fingers and hands (so the dough won't stick), break off a bunch of teaspoon-sized pieces of warm dough-a dozen or so-and rapidly roll them into bite-sized b.a.l.l.s, the size of grapes.

While still warm, roll the b.a.l.l.s in the nuts, so the whole surface gets a light nut coating, and place them on the parchment-lined tray. Working quickly, shape another batch of b.a.l.l.s, and coat them with nuts.

When cool, store panmelati panmelati in a cookie tin or other airtight container, lined with wax paper. They will keep for about a week. in a cookie tin or other airtight container, lined with wax paper. They will keep for about a week.

DRY F FRUIT S STRUDEL AS M AS MADE IN A IN a.s.sISI.

Rocciata di a.s.sisi Makes about 2 dozen cookies Makes about 2 dozen cookies You roll up this rocciata rocciata, a thin pastry with a fruit-and-nut filling, just as you do a strudel-but you don't bake it like a strudel. Instead, you slice the roll into thin rounds, lay them flat, and bake them into two dozen rich and beautiful spiral cookies. In this version, I macerate dried fruit overnight in vin santo vin santo, one of my favorite sweet wines. There's always a bit of fruity wine left over, and I cook it into a delicious syrup to drizzle over the cookies.

Delicious when dunked in a good espresso, and even better when dunked in grappa, these cookies are nice to have around, as well as to give as gifts at the holidays. And I make them after after the holidays, too, since they're such a brilliant way to use up all the dried fruit and nuts I have left over from the festivities. the holidays, too, since they're such a brilliant way to use up all the dried fruit and nuts I have left over from the festivities.

- 8 ounces a.s.sorted dried fruit dried fruit (such as raisins, apricots, cherries, and prunes), chopped in -inch pieces (such as raisins, apricots, cherries, and prunes), chopped in -inch pieces - 1 apple apple, peeled, cored, and chopped in -inch pieces - cup sugar sugar - cup vin santo vin santo - cup roughly chopped mixed nuts mixed nuts (such as almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts), toasted (such as almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts), toasted - 1 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - Pinch of kosher salt kosher salt - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 large egg RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 2 half-sheet pans (12 by 18 inches) or other large baking sheets; parchment paper; a long, sharp serrated knife A day before baking the cookies, prepare the fruit: Mix the chopped dried fruit and chopped apple in a bowl, toss with cup of the sugar, pour in the vin santo vin santo, and stir. Cover with plastic wrap, and macerate overnight in the refrigerator.

The next day, strain the fruit, catching and reserving the juices in a small saucepan. Return the fruit to the bowl, and toss with the chopped nuts.

To make the dough: Stir together the flour, the remaining cup sugar, and a pinch of salt in a large bowl. Drizzle in the olive oil, tossing the dry mix with a fork to form coa.r.s.e crumbs. Beat the egg with 1 tablespoon water, and pour over the crumbs, tossing and mixing them into a slightly sticky dough. Wrap the dough in plastic, press it into a small flat block, and let it rest briefly.

Arrange two racks in the oven, and heat it to 375. Line the baking sheets with parchment paper.

Unwrap the dough, place it between two other pieces of parchment paper, and roll it into a thin rectangular sheet, 12 by 15 inches. Remove the top parchment, and spread the fruit-nut filling on the dough, leaving a 1-inch margin uncovered on all sides. Gently pat the filling so it adheres to the dough.

Roll up the dough like a jelly roll, starting at one of the longer sides, into a cylinder or log about 15 inches long. You can lift the bottom parchment to support the dough sheet as you fold it over into a spiral, enclosing the filling. When the log is finished, wrap it fully in the parchment paper (so it doesn't stick to the table), and roll it back and forth a few times to make it more compact (and easier to cut).

Unwrap the log, and trim off the ends with the serrated knife. Next, slice the log crosswise every inch or so, into disk-shaped spiral cookies. (If these begin to crumble as you cut, re-form the log into a compact shape, and start cutting again.) Lay the cookies flat and s.p.a.ced apart on the lined baking sheets.

Place the sheets on the two oven racks, and bake for about 15 minutes, then rotate the pans-top to bottom rack, and back to front-and bake another 15 minutes or so, until the dough is golden brown and the filling is bubbling.

Meanwhile, heat the reserved fruit juices to the boil in a small saucepan, and cook until syrupy and reduced to about cup. Remove the baking sheets from the oven onto wire racks, and while the cookies are still hot, drizzle the fruit syrup over them.

Let the cookies cool completely. They will keep for a week or two if well wrapped or in a cookie tin.

CHOCOLATE B BREAD P PARFAIT.

Pane e Cioccolata al Cucchiaio Serves 6 Serves 6 This recalls for me the chocolate-and-bread sandwiches that sometimes were my lunch, and always a special treat. And it is another inventive way surplus is used in Umbrian cuisine, with leftover country bread serving as the foundation of an elegant layered dessert. Though it is soaked with chocolate and espresso sauce and buried in whipped cream, the bread doesn't disintegrate, and provides a pleasing textural contrast in every heavenly spoonful.

- 8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped - 8 ounces country-style white bread country-style white bread, crusts removed - cup freshly brewed espresso espresso - 2 tablespoons dark rum dark rum - 2 tablespoons sugar sugar - 1 cups chilled heavy cream heavy cream - 1 cup sliced almonds almonds, toasted RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large rimmed tray or baking sheet, such as a half-sheet pan (12 by 18 inches); a spouted measuring cup, 1 pint or larger; 6 parfait gla.s.ses or winegla.s.ses, preferably balloon-shaped Put the chopped chocolate in a bowl set in a pan of hot (not boiling) water. When the chocolate begins to melt, stir until completely smooth. Keep it warm, over the water, off the heat.

Slice the bread into -inch-thick slices, and lay them flat in one layer, close together, on the tray or baking sheet.

Pour the warm espresso into a spouted measuring cup, stir in the rum and sugar until sugar dissolves, then stir in half the melted chocolate. Pour the sauce all over the bread slices, then flip them over and turn them on the tray, to make sure all the surfaces are coated. Let the bread absorb the sauce for a few minutes.

Meanwhile, whip the cream until soft peaks form, by hand or with an electric mixer.

To a.s.semble the parfaits: Break the bread into 1-inch pieces. Use half the pieces to make the bottom parfait layer in the six serving gla.s.ses, dropping an equal amount of chocolatey bread into each. Sc.r.a.pe up some of the unabsorbed chocolate sauce that remains on the baking sheet, and drizzle a bit over the bread layers. Next, drop a layer of whipped cream in the gla.s.ses, using up half the cream. Top the cream layer with toasted almonds, using half the nuts.

Repeat the layering sequence: drop more soaked bread into each gla.s.s, drizzle over it the chocolate sauce from the tray and the remaining melted chocolate. Dollop another layer of whipped cream in the gla.s.ses, using it all up, and sprinkle the remaining almonds on top of each parfait. This dessert is best when served immediately, while the melted chocolate is still warm and runny.

Spoleto is a magnificent city filled with Roman artifacts-the Roman theater, the gorgeous house of Vespasian's mother (Vespasia Polla), and the ancient city gates. The elegant facade and portico of the cathedral only hint at the beauty inside: it was Fra Filippo Lippi who worked on the frescoes depicting the Life of the Virgin. In the central scene, Lippi painted a self-portrait (dressed in a white monk's tunic) as well as a portrait of his son. The t.i.tle "Fra" signifies a cleric or monk, but Fra Filippo Lippi fell in love with a nun and had a son, Filippino Lippi. is a magnificent city filled with Roman artifacts-the Roman theater, the gorgeous house of Vespasian's mother (Vespasia Polla), and the ancient city gates. The elegant facade and portico of the cathedral only hint at the beauty inside: it was Fra Filippo Lippi who worked on the frescoes depicting the Life of the Virgin. In the central scene, Lippi painted a self-portrait (dressed in a white monk's tunic) as well as a portrait of his son. The t.i.tle "Fra" signifies a cleric or monk, but Fra Filippo Lippi fell in love with a nun and had a son, Filippino Lippi.I first visited Spoleto with my husband and was impressed by the Ponte delle Torri, a graceful bridge built on the remains of a Roman aqueduct, consisting of long, slender arches that look like a delicate piece of lace hung out to dry between the mountain and the city of Spoleto. The city slowly tumbles down a slope and ends at the Via Flaminia, beyond which are rolling hills. In these hills, I experienced my first wild-boar hunt. It was thrilling to look through night-vision binoculars, making sure that I was downwind (boar have a very sensitive sense of smell), and although we didn't bring any boar home that night, the hunt was exciting.Follow in the footsteps of Saint Francis and visit the a.s.sisi a.s.sisi basilica which houses his tomb and some of the most important frescoes of the Renaissance, by such artists as Giotto, Cimabue, and Simone Martini. It is an imposing structure to honor a man who lived so simply and owned nothing. But the simplicity is felt deep inside the basilica, in the burial chamber, where there is absolute stillness, echoing on the barren rock. basilica which houses his tomb and some of the most important frescoes of the Renaissance, by such artists as Giotto, Cimabue, and Simone Martini. It is an imposing structure to honor a man who lived so simply and owned nothing. But the simplicity is felt deep inside the basilica, in the burial chamber, where there is absolute stillness, echoing on the barren rock.As you walk through the Roman arch, Porta Consolare, up the stone roads of Spello Spello (actually made for horses to walk up), each balcony or set of small steps is bursting with geraniums of all colors. Flowers in Spello are not only a matter of personal pride, but at the end of May, for the Feast of Corpus Domini, there is a town-wide festival, the Infiorata, for which flowers are used to make elaborate pictures and designs along the streets. There are also spectacular frescoes by Pinturicchio to be found in the Baglioni Chapel. (actually made for horses to walk up), each balcony or set of small steps is bursting with geraniums of all colors. Flowers in Spello are not only a matter of personal pride, but at the end of May, for the Feast of Corpus Domini, there is a town-wide festival, the Infiorata, for which flowers are used to make elaborate pictures and designs along the streets. There are also spectacular frescoes by Pinturicchio to be found in the Baglioni Chapel.Foligno holds a special place for me in particular-the Palazzo Trinci, built and decorated by the Trinci family, Renaissance rulers of Foligno. The palazzo itself is a s.h.i.+ning example of the Renaissance residence, and the frescoes inside reflect the interests of the family: the planets, the ages of man, and other Neoplatonic subject matter. holds a special place for me in particular-the Palazzo Trinci, built and decorated by the Trinci family, Renaissance rulers of Foligno. The palazzo itself is a s.h.i.+ning example of the Renaissance residence, and the frescoes inside reflect the interests of the family: the planets, the ages of man, and other Neoplatonic subject matter.Bevagna is charming and welcoming to tired legs that have walked many hill towns; it is located on a low, fertile plain surrounded by waterways. One of the most splendid experiences I have had in Umbria was the medieval festival in Bevagna in June, when the whole town dresses up in medieval garb. Plays are performed in the streets, stalls sell wares, and even blacksmiths display their trades on every corner of the town. The main square, Piazza Silvestri, is one of the most charming in Italy. There the medieval buildings are placed asymmetrically, quite different from the usual "square" square. is charming and welcoming to tired legs that have walked many hill towns; it is located on a low, fertile plain surrounded by waterways. One of the most splendid experiences I have had in Umbria was the medieval festival in Bevagna in June, when the whole town dresses up in medieval garb. Plays are performed in the streets, stalls sell wares, and even blacksmiths display their trades on every corner of the town. The main square, Piazza Silvestri, is one of the most charming in Italy. There the medieval buildings are placed asymmetrically, quite different from the usual "square" square.Montefalco is well known for the wonderful wine Sagrantino and for its ancient walls, still largely intact. Seek out the town hall with its graceful portico. I also enjoy the fourteenth-century Church of St. Francis, which now serves as a is well known for the wonderful wine Sagrantino and for its ancient walls, still largely intact. Seek out the town hall with its graceful portico. I also enjoy the fourteenth-century Church of St. Francis, which now serves as a pinacoteca pinacoteca, or art gallery.They say that all Egubini-the people of Gubbio Gubbio-are a bit crazy. My husband's paternal relatives were all born in Gubbio, and I cannot say that I disagree; they are crazy in a jovial kind of way. It is the best Umbrian city to visit with children. Mine have gone there several times. Each time, we have our ritual: We park down at the bottom, and complain as we walk up the steep hill, but once we're in the Piazza dei Consoli, the long haul is rewarded with a balcony looking onto the Umbrian landscape. The square is enormous and reminds me of an outdoor dance hall, with a long bal.u.s.trade to admire the view. We then venture into the town hall and walk through the secret pa.s.sageways and never miss the lower rooms, which my children like to call the dungeon, and the medieval toilets, where we enjoy bathroom humor. We then venture down to the "crazy fountain," as the kids like to call it. Legend has it that if you walk around the fountain three times, splas.h.i.+ng yourself with its water, you, too, will become as crazy as the Egubini. Needless to say, we do it every time, just to make sure no craziness has worn off from our last visit. Throw all caution to the wind, and get in a tiny round cage on the funicular that takes you to the mount above Gubbio. My children also enjoy staying in the nearby Capuchin monastery, which has been converted to a hotel, Park Hotel ai Cappuccini. Rooms in the older part of the hotel were monk cells.-TANYA Overleaf: Maccheroni Maccheroni with Zucchini with Zucchini-Maccheroni all'Aquilana

I LOVE THE PEOPLE OF ABRUZZO. THEY ARE WELCOMING, GIVING LOVE THE PEOPLE OF ABRUZZO. THEY ARE WELCOMING, GIVING, and jovial-and usually there's a concertina at hand so they can give expression to their feelings. The food of this mountainous region reflects the character of the people-sincere, warm, inviting, gutsy, and full of flavor. From the resilient dry pasta to the handmade maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra, from the tender roasted lamb to the complex richness of the pecorino they make and the golden, aromatic saffron they harvest, all these flavors of Abruzzo are hard to forget.

It was a misty late-autumn day in 2007, and the peaks were white with snow, when Mario and I drove up and up the serpentine road leading to the village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio, nestled between the hills of the Appennini that rise to their highest peak, the Corno Grande of the Gran Sa.s.so d'Italia Ma.s.sif. And then it appeared: from the distance we could see the church steeple and the round stone tower of Santo Stefano di Sessanio on top of a hill, and beneath, the white stone houses of the town, huddled like mushrooms in a protective ma.s.s. (This tower is now rubble, after the April 2009 earthquake.) As we neared Santo Stefano, we saw that the dwellings had been built side by side to form a wall of houses, a defensive and forbidding perimeter typical of the mountain villages.

Inside the town, the feeling changed. We strolled the s.h.i.+ning cobblestoned streets that spiraled up to the tower with magnificent terrazzas overlooking the valleys of Pescara and Tirino below. White smoke billowed from the chimneys of the fourteenth-century houses, and when we peeked through the lace curtains of the small wood-framed windows we saw people moving about their kitchens, and out wafted the delicious aromas of soup perking on the stove.

Santo Stefano di Sessanio is famous for the small, tender lentils grown in the surrounding fields, and I am sure that in some of those huddled stone houses, on the central hearths, the pots were of lentil soup. And I thought there would be scrippelle scrippelle, the traditional local c.r.a.pes, to serve in the soup, or to be stuffed with spinach, mushrooms, or meat, or perhaps sweetened for dessert.

Now hungry, Mario and I found our way to the one open cafe. The town was half empty, many shuttered houses awaiting the return of summer, when families drive up from big cities to recapture their past, living and cooking the ways of the mountain. Fortunately, there is an ever greater demand for this kind of setting; many abandoned houses are now being refurbished by local entrepreneurs and sold as small summer units.

We had a very different adventure in another mountain valley, the Valle Scannese, outside of the picturesque town of Scanno. Here we discovered some of the best pecorino cheese I have ever tasted-and there are countless local pecorinos to try-made by Gregorio Rotolo and family. The "madman of cheese," as he is known in the Valle Scannese, Gregorio is pa.s.sionate about his animals. What makes good cheese, he says, is the milk. His cows, goats, and sheep graze in pastures at two thousand meters (more than sixty-five hundred feet), and the diversity of the plants and flowers at that alt.i.tude is what imparts the flavor to the milk, and hence the cheese. It is all organic, and the cheese is made of unpasteurized milk. I had an extraordinary pecorino scorza nera pecorino scorza nera and and ricotta scorza nera ricotta scorza nera, pecorino and ricotta rubbed in black all-vegetable ash. As the cheese aged, it absorbed the subtle flavor of the ash, and there was a creaminess and complexity to the ricotta I have never experienced before.

Gregorio and his sister, with her family, also run the Bio Agriturismo Valle Scannese, an agricultural hostelry for tourists, where, in a simple setting, everything they serve is organic, produced either by them or by neighboring farms. The walls of their dining room are decorated with extraordinary photos of Scanno and its residents, taken by a local photographer, Cesidio Silla. And while we were enjoying the food offerings on a late Sunday afternoon, we were fortunate to see the herds of cows, sheep, and goats slowly descending the hills, heading back home for the night. It was a sight, particularly in that setting, with the good cheese and other food, that I will cherish all my life.

But why would I travel to these mountains in the fog and cold of late fall, you might wonder.

The answer is that I had to travel to satisfy a curiosity that had been growing in me for years-a curiosity about saffron. I had cooked with it and delighted in its flavor, color, and aroma for many years, and wanted to experience its harvest from the crocus plant.

So that is why I was out in the fields of Navelli early one frosty morning, watching the women wrapped in shawls, and the men with their old-fas.h.i.+oned country caps on, all with baskets hanging over their arms, bent over rows of crocus plants. They were selectively picking the still-unopened buds of the crocus flower, which had sprouted overnight. Only the unopened ones were picked, before the morning sun had a chance to cast its warm rays on the delicate stigmas; this way, the maximum aroma is preserved, and it is easier to extract the precious golden saffron thread. If touched by the sun, like Cinderella by the stroke of twelve, the saffron might lose its magic. And then, just as the sun rises, they go home and empty the baskets of crocuses, in a pile on the table.

Not long ago, this precious commodity was becoming extinct; the young were not willing to undertake the hard work of cultivating the crocus. But Silvio Sarra, now in his seventies, a native of Civitaretenga, in the commune of Navelli, believed in the tradition of his ancestors, and thirty years ago formed the Cooperativa Altopiano di Navelli, with a handful of producers, and revived in the area the tradition of cultivating the crocus. He and his sister Gina run a small local agriturismo in Civitaretenga, Casa Verde, where one can enjoy the local flavors-especially in late October, when the crocus blooms.

It was in the Casa Verde that Silvio and Gina showed us how to sfiorare sfiorare the saffron-that is, to pluck the stigma from the crocus flowers. It is mostly the women who do the work, seated around the table chatting as their hands move fast to pull out the yellow threads from the mound of purple crocus flowers in front of them. Eventually, small mounds of golden threads pile up in front of them on the table, as the plucked purple flowers drop to the floor. There is always a fire crackling in the hearth. The man of the house, Silvio, at least during my visit, collects the little mounds from each woman and spreads them on the mesh of a sieve, which he then hangs, at a distance, on top of the coals. By the time the women have acc.u.mulated another pile, in twenty minutes or so, the batch of saffron is dried. And so for a week or more the harvest and drying of saffron happens on the kitchen tables, in the houses of the little towns of the the saffron-that is, to pluck the stigma from the crocus flowers. It is mostly the women who do the work, seated around the table chatting as their hands move fast to pull out the yellow threads from the mound of purple crocus flowers in front of them. Eventually, small mounds of golden threads pile up in front of them on the table, as the plucked purple flowers drop to the floor. There is always a fire crackling in the hearth. The man of the house, Silvio, at least during my visit, collects the little mounds from each woman and spreads them on the mesh of a sieve, which he then hangs, at a distance, on top of the coals. By the time the women have acc.u.mulated another pile, in twenty minutes or so, the batch of saffron is dried. And so for a week or more the harvest and drying of saffron happens on the kitchen tables, in the houses of the little towns of the altopiano di Navelli. altopiano di Navelli. As we descended from the mountains, heading toward the sea, we entered the lower hill country of Abruzzo, quite a different realm, of fields and vineyards. Here, too, we made some wonderful discoveries and friends. Although not considered one of the premier wine regions in Italy, Abruzzo produces four DOC varieties-the Contro Guerra, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane (which was recently elevated to DOCG status). I've enjoyed the wines from some of the more established Abruzzese producers (usually brought to my attention by my son, Joe), but I've really become convinced that world-cla.s.s wines are coming from the region after meeting Leonardo Pizzolo, from Valle Reale in Popoli, on my last visit. As we descended from the mountains, heading toward the sea, we entered the lower hill country of Abruzzo, quite a different realm, of fields and vineyards. Here, too, we made some wonderful discoveries and friends. Although not considered one of the premier wine regions in Italy, Abruzzo produces four DOC varieties-the Contro Guerra, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, and Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Colline Teramane (which was recently elevated to DOCG status). I've enjoyed the wines from some of the more established Abruzzese producers (usually brought to my attention by my son, Joe), but I've really become convinced that world-cla.s.s wines are coming from the region after meeting Leonardo Pizzolo, from Valle Reale in Popoli, on my last visit.

Leonardo comes from the Veneto region, not too far from my own origins, and one evening over dinner he confessed that he fell in love with the unspoiled beauty of Valle Reale, situated between the soaring Apennine peaks of the Gran Sa.s.so range to the north and the Majella range to the south, and decided to plant grapes, build a winery, and live here. Less than a decade old now, his Azienda Villa Reale is already producing award-winning wines like his San Calisto-100 percent Montepulciano, from old vineyards, aged in oak casks. A well-made Montepulciano is always a great pairing for the gutsy maccheroni alla chitarra maccheroni alla chitarra.

As much as I love the terrain and food of inland Abruzzo, I was delighted to reach the coast on my last visit and find many treats that I'd never discovered before. As we traveled south from Ortona along the seash.o.r.e, I was thrilled by the sight of the trabocchi trabocchi, the traditional fis.h.i.+ng huts built on stilts at the end of long narrow wooden walkways that protrude into the sea. From these huts, fishermen cast their nets and catch fish as they swim by-a mixture of small to medium fishes, which are mostly baked or fried and used in soups or brodetto. brodetto.

The regional maritime gastronomy of Abruzzo is deliciously simple and is known for the brodetto brodetto of a.s.sorted local fish cooked in an earthenware dish, as well as the of a.s.sorted local fish cooked in an earthenware dish, as well as the scapece scapece, a fish specialty cooked and preserved in vinegar with abundant saffron, which gives it its golden-yellow color. And there is not a more elegant combination than the artisa.n.a.l dry pasta from Abruzzo called paccheri paccheri tossed with the sauce of the tossed with the sauce of the brodetto brodetto from coastal Abruzzo. from coastal Abruzzo.

The tragic earthquake in Abruzzo in April 2009 not only shook the ground, but also shook my heart. Many of the places I have come to enjoy are now rubble. Thank goodness, all the people I have enjoyed are fine and, in true Abruzzese fas.h.i.+on, have taken on the task of toiling to rebuild their lives.

Trabocchi-fis.h.i.+ng huts-on the Adriatic coast of Abruzzo ABRUZZESE C CHESTNUT & L & LENTIL S SOUP.

Zuppa di Lenticchie e Castagne Makes 3 quarts, serving 8 or more Makes 3 quarts, serving 8 or more Legumes are a specialty of growers in L'Aquila, the big inland province of Abruzzo, and the pride of the region is the small, tender lentils grown in the mountain village of Santo Stefano di Sessanio. Since my recent visit to this remote, rugged settlement, I have had no doubt that it was in just such a place that this hearty and warming winter soup, thick with lentils and chestnuts, was created. These native foods, so good together, can surely sustain one through long cold winters in the high country.

Unfortunately, the delicious lenticchie lenticchie of Santo Stefano di Sessanio are a limited commodity and not available here. Instead, I recommend using lentils from Castelluccio in Umbria in this soup. Ordinary lentils are fine as well, though some larger types may need soaking or longer cooking time. of Santo Stefano di Sessanio are a limited commodity and not available here. Instead, I recommend using lentils from Castelluccio in Umbria in this soup. Ordinary lentils are fine as well, though some larger types may need soaking or longer cooking time.

Chestnuts, grown along the length of the Apennines, are also essential to Abruzzese cuisine. In season, they're enjoyed in everything from pastas to desserts, and then, like lentils, dried for winter cooking or milled into flour. Though this soup can be made with fresh (or frozen) chestnuts, I use dried chestnuts, as is often the case in Abruzzo. These are available year-round and spare you the work of peeling. I also like the way they cook slowly without disintegrating, giving the soup a particularly nice texture. They do require an overnight soak, however, before you start cooking.

- pound dried chestnuts dried chestnuts - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - 3 sprigs fresh thyme fresh thyme - 3 sprigs fresh marjoram fresh marjoram - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 cup canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 4 quarts water water - 8 large fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - 1 pound lentils lentils - 2 tablespoons kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) - Extra-virgin olive oil, excellent-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed soup pot or saucepan, 6-quart capacity or larger Rinse the dried chestnuts, and put them in a bowl with cold water to cover by at least 4 inches. Let soak in a cool place for 8 hours or overnight, and drain them when you start cooking the soup.

Pour the olive oil into the soup pot, set over medium-high heat, and drop in the crushed garlic cloves. Cook for a couple of minutes, until they're sizzling and lightly colored, then drop in the herb sprigs and bay leaves, and cook for a minute. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, bring the juices to a boil, and cook for a minute or two, to concentrate the flavors.

Pour in the water, stir well, add the basil leaves and drained chestnuts, and cover the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and cook at a gentle boil, reducing gradually, until the chestnuts have softened and have started to crumble, about 1 hours.

Rinse the lentils, and stir them into the soup along with the salt. Return to a full boil, and cook, cover ajar, for 30 minutes or more, until the lentils are tender (timing depends on lentil size and variety) and the broth is flavorful.

Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of freshly grated cheese over each portion, and finish with a swirl of excellent olive oil. Serve right away, with more grated cheese at the table.

CELERY S SOUP.

Minestra di Sedano Makes about 4 quarts, serving 8 or more Makes about 4 quarts, serving 8 or more A minestra paesana minestra paesana of humble ingredients, this is a delightfully satisfying and flavorful soup. The soup base is built on a of humble ingredients, this is a delightfully satisfying and flavorful soup. The soup base is built on a pestata pestata, a bit of tomato, and, if you have one, a piece of hard rind left from grating cheese. (I hope you save these! They are a great addition to almost any soup or stock.) One of my favorite vegetables, celery-and lots of it-gives the soup a delicate yet distinctive taste. And just before serving, a few handfuls of ditalini (or other short pasta) cook in the broth, to provide texture and substance. Don't add the pasta until you are almost ready to serve, because it becomes soft and soggy left in the soup. In Abruzzo, as elsewhere in Italy, only al dente al dente pasta should grace a soup bowl-and that's what this recipe will give you. pasta should grace a soup bowl-and that's what this recipe will give you.

- 6 ounces pancetta pancetta or or bacon bacon, in 1-inch pieces - 1 cup onion onion cut in 1-inch chunks cut in 1-inch chunks - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 8 or more stalks celery celery with leaves (about 1 pounds) with leaves (about 1 pounds) - 1 piece (2 inches or so) outer rind of pecorino, Grana Padano pecorino, Grana Padano, or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional) (optional) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 4 quarts water water - 2 tablespoons kosher salt kosher salt - FOR FINIs.h.i.+NG AND SERVING THE SOUP - 1 pound ditalini ditalini (for the whole batch of soup) (for the whole batch of soup) - Freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed soup pot or saucepan, 6-quart capacity or larger Using the food processor, mince the pancetta, onion, and garlic to a fine-textured pestata. pestata. Slice the celery stalks (and leaves) crosswise into -inch-thick chunks-you should have 6 cups of sliced celery or a bit more. If you have a piece of cheese rind, sc.r.a.pe off any mold and rinse it. Slice the celery stalks (and leaves) crosswise into -inch-thick chunks-you should have 6 cups of sliced celery or a bit more. If you have a piece of cheese rind, sc.r.a.pe off any mold and rinse it.

Pour the olive oil into the soup pot, and set over medium-high heat. Sc.r.a.pe in the pestata pestata, and cook, stirring, until it has dried and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes and the water, and stir up the pestata. pestata. Drop in the cheese rind and the 2 tablespoons salt, cover the pot, and bring the soup base to a boil. Cook, covered, at a steady boil for 20 minutes or so, to develop flavor. Drop in the cheese rind and the 2 tablespoons salt, cover the pot, and bring the soup base to a boil. Cook, covered, at a steady boil for 20 minutes or so, to develop flavor.

Uncover the pot, and stir in all of the sliced celery. Bring the soup back to a boil, then adjust the heat to keep it at a bubbling simmer. Cook, cover off, for another hour or so, until the celery is very soft and the soup has reduced by about a quarter. Taste, and check that the broth has enough flavor and body-if it is thin, cook longer to concentrate the taste. Adjust the seasoning, making sure there's enough saltiness to season the ditalini pasta. (You can finish and serve all or some of the soup now, or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze.) To complete the soup with pasta: Heat to the boil only the amount of soup you'll be serving, measuring 1 to 2 cups per portion (eight or more servings from the whole batch). When it is bubbling, stir in cup ditalini for every quart of soup.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente al dente, 10 minutes or so. Turn off the heat, and immediately ladle the soup into warm bowls. Sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of freshly grated cheese over each portion, and finish with a swirl of excellent olive oil. Serve right away, with more grated cheese at the table.

MEATLESS P PECORINO M MEATb.a.l.l.s.

Polpettine di Pecorino e Uova Makes about 60 small Makes about 60 small polpettine polpettine, serving 6 as a main course, 10 or more as a first course, and many more as a buffet appetizer These crispy, savory b.a.l.l.s, simmering in tomato sauce, are delicious and surprising: though they have all the texture and flavor that a meatball-lover would ask for, there's not a bit of meat in them-just eggs, grated cheese, and bread crumbs plus garlic and basil. They are certainly a testament to the ingenuity of Abruzzese cooks, who have fas.h.i.+oned the simplest staples of a rustic kitchen into a treat for all occasions. Serve the polpettine polpettine as a special snack or party hors d'oeuvre-when they're freshly fried and crispy, you won't even need any sauce. And with the sauce, they make a delightful as a special snack or party hors d'oeuvre-when they're freshly fried and crispy, you won't even need any sauce. And with the sauce, they make a delightful primo primo or vegetarian main course. or vegetarian main course.

A good-quality pecorino for grating is essential here and will give you the most authentic flavor. If you've found one you like, use it exclusively in the polpettine polpettine and for serving. If your pecorino is sharp and/or salty, subst.i.tute Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano for half the cheese in the recipe. and for serving. If your pecorino is sharp and/or salty, subst.i.tute Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano for half the cheese in the recipe.

- 8 large eggs eggs - 3 cups fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 3 cups freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor) - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil fresh basil (about 20 large leaves) (about 20 large leaves) - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped cloves, peeled and finely chopped - 1 cup vegetable oil vegetable oil, or more as needed - 2 batches (6 to 7 cups) Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce - Fresh basil leaves for garnis.h.i.+ng leaves for garnis.h.i.+ng RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed high-sided skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, for frying; a heavy saucepan, 6-quart capacity or larger, for finis.h.i.+ng the polpettine polpettine in sauce in sauce Beat the eggs well in a large mixing bowl. Heap the bread crumbs, grated cheese, salt, chopped basil, and garlic on top of the eggs, and mix everything together well, first with a big spoon or spatula and then with your hands. The dough should come together in a soft ma.s.s, leaving the sides of the bowl. If it is very sticky, work in more bread crumbs a bit at a time.

Break off tablespoonful pieces of dough, and one by one roll them in your palms into a smooth ball. Place the polpettine polpettine on a board or tray covered with wax paper or parchment-you should get about sixty b.a.l.l.s total. on a board or tray covered with wax paper or parchment-you should get about sixty b.a.l.l.s total.

Pour inch oil into the skillet, and set over a medium flame. When the oil is hot enough that a test ball starts sizzling on contact, lay in as many polpettine polpettine as will fill the pan with clear s.p.a.ce around them-you should be able to fit in twenty or thirty. Adjust the heat so the oil stays hot and the rounds are sizzling and browning nicely but not burning. Turn them frequently, so they fry on all sides. When the b.a.l.l.s are evenly browned and crispy, lift them from the pan, let the oil drip back in for a moment, then lay them on paper towels to drain. as will fill the pan with clear s.p.a.ce around them-you should be able to fit in twenty or thirty. Adjust the heat so the oil stays hot and the rounds are sizzling and browning nicely but not burning. Turn them frequently, so they fry on all sides. When the b.a.l.l.s are evenly browned and crispy, lift them from the pan, let the oil drip back in for a moment, then lay them on paper towels to drain.

Fry all the polpettine polpettine in batches this way, adding more oil as needed. As a snack or hors d'oeuvre, serve each freshly fried batch while hot and crispy. in batches this way, adding more oil as needed. As a snack or hors d'oeuvre, serve each freshly fried batch while hot and crispy.

To finish and serve polpettine polpettine with tomato sauce, heat 6 cups of the sauce to a simmer in the big saucepan. Drop in all the b.a.l.l.s, and return the sauce to a simmer, gently turning the with tomato sauce, heat 6 cups of the sauce to a simmer in the big saucepan. Drop in all the b.a.l.l.s, and return the sauce to a simmer, gently turning the polpettine polpettine so all are submerged and coated. Cook for about 5 minutes, or just until the so all are submerged and coated. Cook for about 5 minutes, or just until the polpettine polpettine are heated all the way through. are heated all the way through.

Immediately spoon out the b.a.l.l.s in portions: Heap ten or so in warm pasta bowls, with sauce on top, for main-course servings; garnish with a sprinkle of grated cheese and a basil leaf. As a first course, serve four to six polpettine polpettine on plates, in a pool of sauce. Or pile all the b.a.l.l.s up high in a deep platter to share them family-style. Sprinkle cheese over the top, and serve right away. on plates, in a pool of sauce. Or pile all the b.a.l.l.s up high in a deep platter to share them family-style. Sprinkle cheese over the top, and serve right away.

A note of advice: Keep in mind that the longer the polpettine polpettine stay in the sauce the more they will absorb it and become soft-quite delicious, but delicate to handle. Plan to serve them as soon as they are heated through. If they've soaked up most of the sauce in this time-or if your guests are late-heat up about 1 cup more, spoon it over the stay in the sauce the more they will absorb it and become soft-quite delicious, but delicate to handle. Plan to serve them as soon as they are heated through. If they've soaked up most of the sauce in this time-or if your guests are late-heat up about 1 cup more, spoon it over the polpettine polpettine, or pa.s.s it at the table.

CRESPELLE WITH S SPINACH.

Scrippelle agli Spinaci Serves 6 or more Serves 6 or more Italians have many local and regional names for crespelle crespelle (what the French, and most Americans, call c.r.a.pes) and innumerable ways to enjoy them. In Abruzzo, these traditional thin pancakes are called (what the French, and most Americans, call c.r.a.pes) and innumerable ways to enjoy them. In Abruzzo, these traditional thin pancakes are called scrippelle scrippelle and are the versatile foundation for both savory and sweet dishes. and are the versatile foundation for both savory and sweet dishes.

Here's a typically simple ca.s.serole of spinach-filled scrippelle scrippelle, lightly dressed with tomato sauce and a shower of grated cheese. Serve bubbling hot from the oven as an appetizer or a fine vegetarian main dish (even meat-lovers will be satisfied).

The batter for these scrippelle scrippelle is a bit thicker than the usual is a bit thicker than the usual crespelle crespelle batter, but it is easy to work with and produces a pancake with fine texture. The Abruzzesi use them in all sorts of creative ways: layered with cheeses and sauce like a lasagna or a batter, but it is easy to work with and produces a pancake with fine texture. The Abruzzesi use them in all sorts of creative ways: layered with cheeses and sauce like a lasagna or a pasticiatta pasticiatta, rolled and stuffed and baked like manicotti. A popular technique is to stack and slice the scrippelle scrippelle into thin, tagliatelle-like ribbons. These ribbons are often used as a soup garnish (see box), or in clever desserts, as I show you later in this chapter. into thin, tagliatelle-like ribbons. These ribbons are often used as a soup garnish (see box), or in clever desserts, as I show you later in this chapter.

- FOR THE SCRIPPELLE SCRIPPELLE - 4 large eggs eggs - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water water - 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 4 tablespoons soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, or as needed - FOR FILLING AND BAKING THE SCRIPPELLE SCRIPPELLE - 1 pounds tender spinach spinach leaves, rinsed well, tough stems removed leaves, rinsed well, tough stems removed - 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, plus more for the baking dish - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 cups Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce or or Marinara Sauce Marinara Sauce - 1 cups freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), or more as needed (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), or more as needed RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: An electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, or a st.u.r.dy wire whisk; a 9-inch c.r.a.pe pan or a 10-inch nonstick skillet (with a 9-inch bottom); a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large baking dish or shallow ca.s.serole, 10 by 15 inches, or similar size To make the scrippelle scrippelle batter with an electric mixer: Put the eggs and salt in the mixer bowl, and whisk on medium speed until foamy. Lower the speed, mix in the water, then stop and sift the flour on top. Whisk on low just until smooth. Follow the same mixing procedure if using a hand whisk. You should have about 3 cups of batter. batter with an electric mixer: Put the eggs and salt in the mixer bowl, and whisk on medium speed until foamy. Lower the speed, mix in the water, then stop and sift the flour on top. Whisk on low just until smooth. Follow the same mixing procedure if using a hand whisk. You should have about 3 cups of batter.

Brush the c.r.a.pe pan with a thin coating of b.u.t.ter. Set over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Ladle about cup of batter into the pan, then quickly tilt and swirl the pan so the batter coats the bottom. Let cook about 30 seconds to 1 minute, until the bottom is lightly browned all over. Flip with a spatula, and cook another 30 seconds or so, until that side is lightly browned. Flip the crespella crespella onto a dinner plate. Cook all the onto a dinner plate. Cook all the crespelle crespelle in the same way-a dozen or so total-stacking them on the plate when finished. Brush the pan with b.u.t.ter if it becomes dry or the in the same way-a dozen or so total-stacking them on the plate when finished. Brush the pan with b.u.t.ter if it becomes dry or the scrippelle scrippelle are sticking. If you won't be using the are sticking. If you won't be using the scrippelle scrippelle right away, wrap them in plastic wrap when cool, so they don't dry out. Refrigerate, well wrapped, to use the next day (or freeze). right away, wrap them in plastic wrap when cool, so they don't dry out. Refrigerate, well wrapped, to use the next day (or freeze).

To make the spinach filling: Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add all the spinach at once, stir, and cover the pot. Blanch until tender, about 4 or 5 minutes, then drain in a colander. Let the spinach cool, firmly squeeze all the moisture from the leaves, and chop them coa.r.s.ely. (This step can be done ahead of time: cool and refrigerate chopped spinach for use the next day.) When you are ready to fill and bake the scrippelle scrippelle, heat the oven to 425 and arrange a rack in the center.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in the large skillet over medium heat. Scatter the spinach in the pan, and season with 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, for a minute or so, just enough to heat the spinach through.