Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 9

Crostini con Burro e Tartufi Serves 6 to 8 Serves 6 to 8 You don't need complicated dishes to enjoy the wonderful flavor and aroma of black truffle-bread and b.u.t.ter will do, as this easy recipe proves. Fresh black truffle, if available, always makes great truffle b.u.t.ter. And fresh Norcino truffle, the Umbrian variety plentiful in season around the city of Norcia, considered the finest black truffle in Italy, makes the very best b.u.t.ter. Fresh is always better, but you can use a good-quality jarred Umbrian black truffle. Black truffle from other countries like France is good as well. It's sold by many specialty-food stores and Internet vendors, at a range of prices.

- 6 to 8 thick slices (about 5 by 3 inches) day-old semolina bread semolina bread - ounce fresh black truffle black truffle, or -ounce jar whole black truffles - 2 anchovy anchovy fillets fillets RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A minifood processor Preheat oven to 350. Lay the bread slices flat on a baking sheet, and toast them in the oven for 4 minutes, turn the slices over, and toast for another 4 minutes or so, until they're light gold. Cool the toasts on a wire rack.

If using a fresh truffle, brush it clean with a kitchen towel or vegetable brush. With a sharp vegetable peeler, shave off any tough bits from the exterior of the truffle (save these for sauces or other cooked dishes). Jarred truffles will be ready to use, without cleaning or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g.

Grate the truffle on the fine holes of a grater, reserving a small solid piece. Put the b.u.t.ter and anchovies in the minifood processor, and pulse until smooth. Fold in the grated truffle.

Spread the b.u.t.ter on the cooled crostini. Grate the reserved piece of truffle over the crostini, giving each one a dusting of truffle. Serve immediately.

FILLED F FOCACCIA.

Torta al Testo Makes 2 Makes 2 torte torte Here's my version of our family's favorite Umbrian road food: the torta al testo torta al testo (or (or crescia crescia) baked and served at Il Panaro, the outdoor eatery and truck stop near Gubbio (see this chapter's introduction). The unique wood-oven-baked character of the Il Panaro torta torta is hard to replicate in the home kitchen, yet I've found that baking the breads in a cast-iron skillet gives very nice results. The dough is easy to mix and shape, so even if you're a bread-baking novice you'll have success with this one. is hard to replicate in the home kitchen, yet I've found that baking the breads in a cast-iron skillet gives very nice results. The dough is easy to mix and shape, so even if you're a bread-baking novice you'll have success with this one.

- FOR THE FOCACCIA - 1 package active dry yeast active dry yeast - 3 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for working the dough - FILLINGS FOR THE TORTE TORTE - Thinly sliced prosciutto prosciutto (about 6 slices for each (about 6 slices for each torta torta) - Grated Taleggio or or stracchino stracchino (about 5 ounces for each (about 5 ounces for each torta torta) - Prosciutto-and-grated-cheese combination (about 4 slices prosciutto prosciutto and 3 ounces and 3 ounces cheese cheese for each for each torta torta) - Broccoli di rape or other greens, sauteed with garlic or other greens, sauteed with garlic RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade; a wooden rolling pin; two 10-inch cast-iron skillets (or just one, if that's what you have) Dissolve the yeast in cup warm water in a small bowl; let it sit for several minutes, until it starts to bubble. Put the flour and salt in the bowl of the food processor, and pulse for a few seconds to blend.

Combine the dissolved yeast with a cup of warm water. With the processor running, pour all the liquid into the flour. Process until the dough clumps on the blade and cleans the sides of the bowl, about 20 seconds. Process another 20 seconds, for a total of about 40 seconds. (If the dough does not gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or dry. Feel the dough, then work in more flour or warm water, in small amounts.) Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead for a minute into a smooth round. Put it in a large, oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Put a rack in the bottom third of the oven, and heat it to 450. Deflate the risen dough, and cut it in half. Flatten each piece into a round, about 9 inches in diameter, and lay each in a cast-iron skillet. Press and stretch the dough to fill the entire bottom of the pan, then dimple the top all over with your fingertips. (If you only have one suitable skillet, put one piece of dough back in the oiled bowl and let it rise again, covered, while you shape and bake the first torta. torta. When the skillet is empty, deflate the second piece of dough, shape it, and bake it.) When the skillet is empty, deflate the second piece of dough, shape it, and bake it.) Bake the breads about 15 minutes, until light brown on top. Turn them out to cool on a wire rack. Another option is to cook it on top of the stove in the skillet over medium heat, flipping it several times until done, about 10 to 15 minutes.

To fill the torte: torte: Slice off the top half of each with a long serrated knife, and cover the bottom with slices of prosciutto, grated cheese, sauteed greens, or a combination of these. Replace the tops of the Slice off the top half of each with a long serrated knife, and cover the bottom with slices of prosciutto, grated cheese, sauteed greens, or a combination of these. Replace the tops of the torte torte, set them on a baking sheet, and return to the oven. Bake another 10 minutes or so, until the torte torte are golden and the fillings hot. (If you like, lift the top of the are golden and the fillings hot. (If you like, lift the top of the torta torta and scatter salad greens on the hot fillings, then cover.) Slice the and scatter salad greens on the hot fillings, then cover.) Slice the torte torte into pieces or wedges and serve. into pieces or wedges and serve.

MEATb.a.l.l.s IN B BROTH.

Polpette in Umido Serves 8 to 10 Serves 8 to 10 In Umbria, small meatb.a.l.l.s are often served simply, floating in a bowl of hot chicken broth. This is a fine custom, in my opinion: it makes the soup more special and substantial, and the broth enhances the carefully homemade meatb.a.l.l.s. The diminutive pork-and-veal polpette polpette in this recipe incorporate small amounts of plump raisins, pine nuts, and orange zest-delicate flavors that might be overwhelmed by bold pasta sauce but stand out in a spoonful of light, clear broth. You can either fry or poach the meatb.a.l.l.s (the fried have more flavor; the poached are healthier), but either way they are delicious. in this recipe incorporate small amounts of plump raisins, pine nuts, and orange zest-delicate flavors that might be overwhelmed by bold pasta sauce but stand out in a spoonful of light, clear broth. You can either fry or poach the meatb.a.l.l.s (the fried have more flavor; the poached are healthier), but either way they are delicious.

- FOR THE MEATb.a.l.l.s - 1 pounds ground pork pork - pound ground veal veal - 2 large eggs eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - Zest of 1 medium orange orange (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - 1 tablespoon pine nuts pine nuts, toasted and chopped - 2 tablespoons golden raisins golden raisins, softened in hot water, drained, and chopped - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - All-purpose flour for dredging, about 2 cups or as needed for dredging, about 2 cups or as needed - cup vegetable oil vegetable oil, or as needed, for frying meatb.a.l.l.s - FOR SERVING - 3 to 4 quarts Chicken Stock Chicken Stock - Freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 2 trays or baking sheets, and wax paper or parchment; a heavy nonstick skillet, 12-inch diameter or larger, for frying the meatb.a.l.l.s, or a large pot for poaching them; a 6- or 8-quart soup pot Crumble the ground pork and veal into a large bowl, breaking up any clumps with your fingers, and toss to mix them. Pour the beaten eggs over the meat, and scatter on top the bread crumbs, grated cheese, orange zest, chopped pine nuts and raisins, and salt. Fold and toss and squeeze the meat through your fingers to distribute all the ingredients evenly.

Scoop up a small amount of the meat mix-about a heaping teaspoon-and roll it in your palms to form a 1-inch ball (the size of a large grape). Set it on a tray lined with wax paper or parchment, and form the rest of the mixture into meatb.a.l.l.s-you should have sixty or more. Now either fry or poach the meatb.a.l.l.s, before final heating in stock for serving.

To fry the meatb.a.l.l.s: Spread a good layer of flour on a large plate or tray. Pour a thin layer of vegetable oil in the skillet, and heat it slowly.

Dredge a batch of the meatb.a.l.l.s in flour-twenty or thirty, depending on the size of your skillet. Roll each in the flour until coated, and set them all on a tray. Heat up the oil in the skillet over medium-high heat, and drop in the floured meatb.a.l.l.s. Fry them for about 5 minutes, turning and moving them occasionally, until browned on all sides. Remove them to a tray or platter lined with paper towels. Repeat with the remaining meatb.a.l.l.s, and brown them the same way. Between batches, remove browned bits from the skillet and add more oil as needed.

Alternatively, to poach the meatb.a.l.l.s: Fill a big pot with 3 quarts of lightly salted water, bring it to a boil, and drop in half the meatb.a.l.l.s. Cover the pot, and return the water to a boil quickly. Adjust the heat to keep the water simmering gently, and poach the meatb.a.l.l.s, uncovered, about 5 minutes, until cooked through.

Lift them out with a spider or strainer, let drain briefly, and set them in a bowl in a warm spot. Poach the rest of the meatb.a.l.l.s the same way, then discard the poaching water.

To serve: Heat the broth in the soup pot until simmering. Gently drop in the fried or poached meatb.a.l.l.s, and slowly bring the soup back to the simmer, so the meatb.a.l.l.s heat all the way through.

Fill warm soup bowls with broth and meatb.a.l.l.s-six or more in each bowl-and serve while very hot, with plenty of freshly grated cheese at the table for sprinkling over the top.

The view from the funicular with the city of Gubbio below PASTA WITH T TENDER G GREENS.

Pasta alle Erbe Serves 6 Serves 6 Here's a typically simple, rustic pasta from Umbria, which would be made with seasonal local leafy greens, both cultivated and foraged wild varieties. Although we don't have many of the same choices as in Italy, there are plenty of suitable leafy greens available in our American markets now. Certainly chard, spinach, and common chicory are delicious in this dish, and young beet, collard, dandelion, mustard, or turnip greens would be good, too.

Many dried pastas are delicious with this dressing of greens, and I particularly like dried egg fettuccine (with its extra richness and color); gemelli and orecchiette are also good choices. And I love love homemade fresh gnocchi with this sauce, too. homemade fresh gnocchi with this sauce, too.

- 1 pound tender leafy greens leafy greens (such as chard, spinach, or young beet greens) (such as chard, spinach, or young beet greens) - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finis.h.i.+ng the pasta - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced cloves, peeled and thinly sliced - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for cooking pasta - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 pound dry fettuccine fettuccine (preferably made with egg) (preferably made with egg) - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover; a large pot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover, for cooking the pasta Wash the greens well, and pat them dry on towels. Cut off any tough stems, and coa.r.s.ely chop the leaves into strips. You should have about 10 cups chopped greens.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set over medium-high heat. Scatter in the garlic slices, and cook for a minute or two, until they're sizzling and starting to color. Dump in all the greens, season with the salt and peperoncino, and toss and turn to coat them in oil. Cover the skillet, and cook until all the greens are wilted, turning and stirring them once or twice, 3 minutes or longer (depending on which greens you're cooking).

Stir the tomato paste into 1 cup hot water until blended, and pour it into the skillet. Bring it to a boil, then cover the pan and adjust the heat to maintain a steady bubbling simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the greens are tender and the sauce has a good consistency for dressing pasta.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt). Drop in the fettuccine, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, return the water to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and cook the pasta until barely al dente. al dente.

Lift the fettuccine from the water with tongs and a spider, let it drain for a moment, and drop it into the simmering sauce of greens. Toss pasta and sauce together for a minute or two, until the greens are distributed evenly in the fettuccine and the pasta strands are coated with moisture and fully cooked. If the greens are too dry, thin the sauce with as much as a cup of hot pasta water; if too soupy, thicken the sauce quickly over higher heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup of grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Drizzle over it a tablespoon or two of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

POOR M MAN'S S SUPPER Cena dei Poveri Serves 6 Serves 6 This colorful salad combines grilled fresh peppers with the savory condiments from the Umbrian pantry-anchovies, capers, olives, and, of course, olive oil. I like to serve it on a platter of affettati affettati (sliced prosciutto and other cured meats), or as a topping for grilled bread. And with the addition of fresh mozzarella, hard-cooked eggs, or boiled potatoes, it becomes a light yet satisfying summer lunch. The basic salad in the recipe can be a.s.sembled ahead of time and refrigerated-let it come to room temperature before adding embellishments and serving. (sliced prosciutto and other cured meats), or as a topping for grilled bread. And with the addition of fresh mozzarella, hard-cooked eggs, or boiled potatoes, it becomes a light yet satisfying summer lunch. The basic salad in the recipe can be a.s.sembled ahead of time and refrigerated-let it come to room temperature before adding embellishments and serving.

- 6 bell peppers bell peppers, preferably a combination of red and yellow - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 7 anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, coa.r.s.ely chopped (about 1 tablespoon packed) - 1 cup pitted black oil-cured olives black oil-cured olives - 2 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 plump garlic garlic clove, peeled and thinly sliced clove, peeled and thinly sliced Preheat the oven to 350. Rub the peppers all over with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with teaspoon salt, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 30 minutes or so, turning the peppers occasionally, until their skins are wrinkled and slightly charred.

Let the peppers cool completely. Slice them in half through the stem end, discard the stem, peel off the skin, and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Slice the halves into 1-inch strips, and lay them in a sieve to drain and dry.

Put the drained peppers in a large bowl, and scatter on top the chopped anchovies, olives, capers, parsley, peperoncino, and garlic. Season with the remaining teaspoon salt, and drizzle over it the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Tumble and toss to coat everything well. Let the salad sit, so the flavors blend, for 15 minutes (or longer) before serving.

Serve family-style on a platter of sliced meats, or on individual plates as an appetizer salad or luncheon dish (with such additions as hard-cooked eggs, potatoes, or mozzarella). The salad will keep in the refrigerator for several days; let it come to room temperature before serving.

POTATO-MUSHROOM C CAKE WITH B BRAISED L LENTILS.

Torta di Patate e Funghi con Lenticchie Serves 6 to 8 (with leftover lentils) Serves 6 to 8 (with leftover lentils) This dish is a very satisfying vegetarian main course, as well as a good contorno contorno for grilled sausages, chicken, or lamb chops. Leftover lentils can be turned into a delicious soup with the simple addition of some flavorful stock, or you can incorporate the lentils into risotto or another rice dish. for grilled sausages, chicken, or lamb chops. Leftover lentils can be turned into a delicious soup with the simple addition of some flavorful stock, or you can incorporate the lentils into risotto or another rice dish.

- FOR THE LENTILS - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - cup finely chopped onion onion - cup finely chopped carrot carrot - cup finely chopped celery celery - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 1 cup small lentils lentils, preferably lenticchie di Castelluccio lenticchie di Castelluccio - 2 fresh bay leaves bay leaves - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - FOR THE POTATO-MUSHROOM CAKE - 2 pounds russet potatoes russet potatoes - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 pound mixed fresh mushrooms fresh mushrooms (such as porcini, s.h.i.+take, cremini, and common white mushrooms), cleaned and thinly sliced (such as porcini, s.h.i.+take, cremini, and common white mushrooms), cleaned and thinly sliced - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2 medium leeks leeks, washed, drained, and thinly sliced - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and chopped cloves, peeled and chopped - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley leaves, chopped leaves, chopped - 2 teaspoons fresh thyme fresh thyme leaves, chopped leaves, chopped RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, 3-to-4-quart capacity, with a cover; a heavy-bottomed nonstick skillet or saute pan, 10-inch diameter or larger To cook the lentils: Set the saucepan over medium heat, and pour in the olive oil. Stir in the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened. Clear a spot in the bottom of the pan, drop in the tomato paste, and let it toast and caramelize in the hot spot for a minute or two, then stir it in with the vegetables.

Spill in the lentils, drop in the bay leaves, stir them around the pan, and pour in 6 cups cold water. Cover the pan, and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, stirring now and then. Set the cover ajar, adjust the heat to keep the water bubbling gently, and cook for about 25 minutes, or until the lentils are tender to the bite though still quite soupy. Stir in the salt, and turn off the heat.

Meanwhile, wash the potatoes well and put them, whole and unpeeled, in a large pot. With enough cold water to cover them by about 2 inches, bring to a steady boil, and cook the potatoes just until they are easily pierced with a fork or sharp knife-don't let them get mushy or fall apart. Drain, cool, and peel the potatoes, then cut them crosswise into -inch-thick rounds.

Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and stir in the mushrooms. Season them with teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, as liquid from the mushrooms is released and boils off. When the pan is dry and the mushrooms are browned and caramelized on the edges, take the skillet off the heat and sc.r.a.pe the mushrooms into a bowl.

Pour the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil in the skillet, set it over medium heat, and stir in the leeks and garlic. Cook and stir until the leeks begin to soften, about 4 minutes, then lay all the potato slices in the pan; season with 1 teaspoon salt. With a wide spatula, turn the potato rounds over to coat them in oil. Let them cook and gradually take on color, turning them occasionally, until all the rounds are nicely golden, 8 minutes or so.

Scatter the mushrooms and grated cheese on the potatoes, and tumble to mix them in. Sprinkle on the chopped parsley and thyme and the remaining teaspoon salt, and stir in gently. Spread the seasoned potatoes and mushrooms evenly in the skillet, and press down firmly, with the back of the spatula or some other firm utensil, fusing the slices into a one large pancake.

Cook the cake until brown and crispy on the underside, about 5 minutes-lift the edge of the cake to check it. Cover the skillet with a big plate, and, holding them together with hot pads or towels, invert the skillet, dropping the potato cake onto the plate. Slide it back into the skillet and brown the second side, another 5 minutes. Slide the finished cake onto a cutting board.

To serve: Reheat the lentils and ladle them onto a warmed serving platter; center the whole potato cake on top. For individual portions, spoon the lentils into warmed shallow bowls, cut a wedge of the potato cake, and place it on top.

STRANGOZZIPa.s.sionate as I am about pasta, especially fresh homemade pasta, in all its forms, it is always a thrill for me to discover a new recipe for dough, a new shape, or a new technique (not to mention dressings, which are truly infinite in their variety). And though I've been making fresh pasta since I was a child and studying the subject throughout my culinary career, my recent travels through Italy's regions have added a few treasures to my list of favorite fresh pastas.

One of these is the distinctive strangozzi strangozzi (some say (some say stringozzi stringozzi) of Umbria. These long pasta strands are as different as can be from the rich and refined tagliatelle of Emilia-Romagna or the tajarin tajarin of Piemonte. of Piemonte. Strangozzi Strangozzi are made from a plain dough of wheat flour, water, and salt (no egg, no olive oil) and rolled a bit thicker than usual. But they have a satisfying wheaty taste, and such substance and texture that eating are made from a plain dough of wheat flour, water, and salt (no egg, no olive oil) and rolled a bit thicker than usual. But they have a satisfying wheaty taste, and such substance and texture that eating strangozzi strangozzi is a joy for any true pasta-lover. is a joy for any true pasta-lover.

In this group of recipes, I share with you an easy formula for dough and a clever method for forming and unrolling long strands of strangozzi strangozzi that I learned in Umbria. It is slightly complicated but very efficient-and lots of fun. Then you'll find recipes for three typically tasty Umbrian sauces, delicious with that I learned in Umbria. It is slightly complicated but very efficient-and lots of fun. Then you'll find recipes for three typically tasty Umbrian sauces, delicious with strangozzi strangozzi and with other pastas, too. and with other pastas, too.

HOMEMADE S STRANGOZZI.

Makes 1 pounds fresh strangozzi strangozzi, serving 6 - pound all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, plus more for working the dough (1 cups) - 1 cup fine semolina flour fine semolina flour, plus more for working the dough - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cups ice water ice water, plus more as needed RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor fitted with a steel blade; a pasta-rolling machine; a pizza cutter or pizza wheel; a long serrated knife; 3 baking sheets Put the flours and the salt in the bowl of the food processor, and process for a few seconds, to aerate. With the food processor running, pour in the water through the feed tube. Process for about 30 seconds, until a dough forms and gathers on the blade. If the dough does not gather on the blade or process easily, it is too wet or dry. Feel the dough, and add either more flour or more ice water, in small amounts.

Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand briefly, until it's smooth, soft, and stretchy. Press it into a disk, wrap well in plastic wrap, and let it rest at room temperature for at least hour. (Refrigerate the dough for up to a day, or freeze for a month or more. Defrost in the refrigerator, and return to room temperature before rolling.) Cut the dough in six equal pieces. Keeping it lightly floured, roll each piece through the machine at progressively thinner settings (but not to the thinnest setting), extending it into a strip about inch thick, 20 inches long, and 5 inches wide (or as wide as your machine allows). Trim the edges so the rolled strips are even rectangles, and lay them flat on lightly floured trays or baking sheets. Dust the tops with flour, and cover loosely with a kitchen towel. Let the sheets dry for 15 to 30 minutes to make the next steps easier.

To form strangozzi: strangozzi: Lay out one pasta strip on the floured surface in front of you, and roll it up from Lay out one pasta strip on the floured surface in front of you, and roll it up from both both short ends, making two fairly tight coils that meet in the middle, like an old-fas.h.i.+oned scroll. With a very sharp knife, slice the scroll crosswise, down through both coils of dough, at -inch intervals. From a 5-inch scroll, you should be able to cut about twenty cross sections; each one is a rolled-up strand of short ends, making two fairly tight coils that meet in the middle, like an old-fas.h.i.+oned scroll. With a very sharp knife, slice the scroll crosswise, down through both coils of dough, at -inch intervals. From a 5-inch scroll, you should be able to cut about twenty cross sections; each one is a rolled-up strand of strangozzi. strangozzi.

To unfurl the strangozzi strangozzi, try this clever method that I learned in Umbria: After slicing the scroll, slide the long blade of a serrated knife (or similar thin blade) under the cut pieces, without separating them. Make sure that the knife edge runs exactly under the center line of the scroll, where the two coils meet.

Now lift the knife, and all the cut pieces, off the table. Twist the knife so only the sharp edge, not the flat of the blade, is in contact with the dough. Jiggle the knife gently. If you've centered the blade correctly, the coils of all the cut pieces will begin to unroll, on either side of the knife blade, and soon you'll be holding a score of strangozzi strangozzi strands. If the dough is sticky in spots, unroll reluctant coils with your fingers. Finally, lower the strands to the work surface, slide them off the knife, gather all into a loose nest, and set it on a floured towel or tray. (If you have problems with this procedure, or don't have a suitable long implement, unfurl the strands. If the dough is sticky in spots, unroll reluctant coils with your fingers. Finally, lower the strands to the work surface, slide them off the knife, gather all into a loose nest, and set it on a floured towel or tray. (If you have problems with this procedure, or don't have a suitable long implement, unfurl the strangozzi strangozzi by separating the cut pieces by hand and shaking the coils loose one at a time.) by separating the cut pieces by hand and shaking the coils loose one at a time.) Make strangozzi strangozzi from the rest of the long dough rectangles. Leave the nests of pasta uncovered, to air-dry at room temperature, until you're ready to cook them (or freeze the nests on a tray until solid, and pack in airtight ziplock bags). from the rest of the long dough rectangles. Leave the nests of pasta uncovered, to air-dry at room temperature, until you're ready to cook them (or freeze the nests on a tray until solid, and pack in airtight ziplock bags).

STRANGOZZI WITH T TOMATO-BACON S SAUCE.

Makes 7 to 8 cups, enough for 2 batches strangozzi strangozzi or 2 pounds dried pasta, serving 12 or 2 pounds dried pasta, serving 12 Like pasta itself, tomato sauces for pasta come in endless varieties. This one gets a depth of flavor from vegetable pestata pestata and good bacon. The recipe makes enough sauce to dress two batches of pasta. Use half on fresh and good bacon. The recipe makes enough sauce to dress two batches of pasta. Use half on fresh strangozzi strangozzi, and pack up half for a future meal: it will keep in the freezer for 4 to 6 weeks and will be wonderful on any pasta you choose.

- FOR THE SAUCE (A DOUBLE BATCH) - 1 medium onion onion, cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 medium carrot carrot, cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 medium stalk celery celery, cut in 1-inch chunks - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 4 ounces thick-sliced bacon thick-sliced bacon (about 4 slices) (about 4 slices) - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 6 cups (two 28-ounce cans) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 3 tablespoons loosely packed fresh marjoram fresh marjoram leaves, chopped leaves, chopped - 4 stalks or big sprigs fresh basil fresh basil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING THE PASTA (A SINGLE BATCH) - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Homemade Strangozzi Strangozzi - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for finis.h.i.+ng the pasta RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed deep skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta Drop the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into the food processor, and mince finely to an even-textured pestata. pestata. Slice the bacon strips crosswise into -inch pieces. Slice the bacon strips crosswise into -inch pieces.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter in the bacon pieces, and cook them, stirring occasionally, until they've rendered much of their fat, about 4 minutes. Push aside the bacon, and spread the pestata pestata in a clear s.p.a.ce in the skillet; let it cook in the hot spot, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or so. As the vegetables wilt and dry, sprinkle the peperoncino in the hot spot and let it toast. in a clear s.p.a.ce in the skillet; let it cook in the hot spot, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes or so. As the vegetables wilt and dry, sprinkle the peperoncino in the hot spot and let it toast.

When the pestata pestata just begins to stick to the pan bottom, pour in the tomatoes and 2 cups of slosh water (used to rinse the tomato cans and bowl). Stir in the marjoram, basil sprigs, and salt, and bring the tomatoes to a boil over high heat; adjust the flame to maintain a steady bubbling simmer. Cook the sauce, uncovered, for about hour, until it has good flavor and is reduced to a consistency you like for dressing pasta. just begins to stick to the pan bottom, pour in the tomatoes and 2 cups of slosh water (used to rinse the tomato cans and bowl). Stir in the marjoram, basil sprigs, and salt, and bring the tomatoes to a boil over high heat; adjust the flame to maintain a steady bubbling simmer. Cook the sauce, uncovered, for about hour, until it has good flavor and is reduced to a consistency you like for dressing pasta.

You can use some of the sauce right away-you'll need half of it to dress strangozzi strangozzi-or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze for later use.

For cooking and dressing strangozzi: Bring a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt) to a rolling boil. Heat half the tomato-bacon sauce, about 3 cups, to a bare simmer in a wide skillet or saute pan (if you've just made the sauce, use the same pan). If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water.

Shake any excess flour from the nests of strangozzi strangozzi, and drop all the pasta into the pot, stirring and separating the strands. Rapidly return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the strangozzi strangozzi for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely al dente. al dente.

Lift out the pasta quickly, let it drain for a moment, and drop it into the simmering sauce. Over low heat, toss strangozzi strangozzi and sauce together for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly and sauce together for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the strangozzi strangozzi, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

Strangozzi being cut in Marco Caprai's kitchen in Montefalco STRANGOZZI WITH C CHARD & A & ALMOND S SAUCE.

Strangozzi con Salsa di Bietole e Mandorle Makes sauce for 1 batch Makes sauce for 1 batch strangozzi strangozzi or other pasta, serving 6 or other pasta, serving 6 This is a fresh and extremely flavorful preparation for strangozzi. strangozzi. The dressing has two components, tender cooked Swiss chard and an uncooked pesto of fresh basil and mint leaves and toasted almonds. (Other leafy greens, such as spinach, chicory, and arugula, could be used, and walnuts could replace the almonds, but the recipe here is true to the region.) It is best to prepare the greens and pesto shortly before you cook and serve the pasta, but if you follow the recipe steps, the dish is actually quite quick-cooking and simple. It is only the mult.i.tude of tastes and textures that are complex and tantalizing! The dressing has two components, tender cooked Swiss chard and an uncooked pesto of fresh basil and mint leaves and toasted almonds. (Other leafy greens, such as spinach, chicory, and arugula, could be used, and walnuts could replace the almonds, but the recipe here is true to the region.) It is best to prepare the greens and pesto shortly before you cook and serve the pasta, but if you follow the recipe steps, the dish is actually quite quick-cooking and simple. It is only the mult.i.tude of tastes and textures that are complex and tantalizing!

- FOR THE CHARD AND PESTO - 2 pounds Swiss chard Swiss chard - 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - cup loosely packed fresh mint fresh mint leaves leaves - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves-2 crushed and peeled, and 2 peeled and thinly sliced cloves-2 crushed and peeled, and 2 peeled and thinly sliced - 10 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup sliced almonds almonds, toasted - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - FOR COOKING AND FINIs.h.i.+NG THE PASTA - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Homemade Strangozzi Strangozzi - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for finis.h.i.+ng RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed deep skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta For the chard and pesto: Bring a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts with 1 tablespoon salt) to the boil. As it heats, rinse and drain the chard leaves, and cut off the stems; if the central rib of the leaf is thick and tough, cut it out. (Save the tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs for stock.) Pile up the leaves, and slice them crosswise into strips about 1 inch wide.

When the water's boiling, heap all the chard into the pot and stir, submerging the strips. Return the water to the boil, and cook the chard until tender to the bite, about 10 minutes. With a spider or other strainer, lift out the chard strips, and drop them into a colander. Turn off the heat, but save the potful of hot water for cooking the strangozzi. strangozzi.

When the chard has drained and cooled a bit, squeeze the strips by handfuls, pressing out the liquid. Loosen the clumps, and pile the strips in the colander.

To make the herb-and-almond pesto: Put into the food-processor bowl the basil and mint leaves, the crushed garlic cloves, 3 tablespoons of olive oil, and 1 teaspoon salt. Process to a chunky paste, about 10 seconds, then drop in the toasted almonds and process again for 10 seconds, or until you have a smooth bright-green paste.

Pour the remaining 7 tablespoons of olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook for a minute or so, until it's sizzling. Drop in the chard strips, season with peperoncino and the remaining teaspoon salt, and stir the chard around the pan. Ladle in cup of hot water from the pot where the chard was blanched, add to the chard, and bring it to a boil. Cook rapidly for a couple of minutes, until the water has reduced by half, then lower the heat so the greens are barely simmering.

For cooking and finis.h.i.+ng the pasta: Meanwhile, bring the chard cooking water back to a rolling boil. Shake the excess flour from the nests of strangozzi strangozzi, and drop all the pasta into the pot, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, and rapidly return the water to a rolling boil; set the cover ajar, and cook the strangozzi strangozzi for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely al dente. al dente.

With a spider and tongs, quickly lift out the strangozzi strangozzi, drain for a moment, and drop them into the skillet with the simmering chard. Toss them together quickly, and spread all of the herb-almond pesto on top. Rinse out the food-processor bowl with cup or so of hot water from the big pot, and pour that in with the pasta. Over low heat, toss the pasta, the chard, and the pesto together for a minute or two, until the strangozzi strangozzi are all coated with the dressings and perfectly are all coated with the dressings and perfectly al dente. al dente. If the dressing is soupy, reduce it quickly over high heat; if it's too dense, thin it with more pasta water. If the dressing is soupy, reduce it quickly over high heat; if it's too dense, thin it with more pasta water.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the strangozzi strangozzi, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

STRANGOZZI WITH V VEAL & C & CHICKEN L LIVER S SAUCE.

Strangozzi con Ragu di Vitello e Fegatini di Pollo Makes 6 cups, enough for 2 batches Makes 6 cups, enough for 2 batches strangozzi strangozzi or 2 pounds of dried pasta, serving 12 or 2 pounds of dried pasta, serving 12 Dress your fresh strangozzi strangozzi with this meaty, mult.i.textured sauce-ground veal and chopped chicken livers cooked in a tomato base-for a hearty dish that will delight carnivores and pasta-lovers simultaneously. This is also a great sauce to incorporate into risotto. If you are not enthusiastic about the flavor of chicken liver, use only pound, for a subtle flavor boost. But if you love the organic richness of livers, as I do, use a whole pound. This recipe makes a big batch of sauce, so you can use half and freeze half (it will keep well for 4 to 6 weeks). with this meaty, mult.i.textured sauce-ground veal and chopped chicken livers cooked in a tomato base-for a hearty dish that will delight carnivores and pasta-lovers simultaneously. This is also a great sauce to incorporate into risotto. If you are not enthusiastic about the flavor of chicken liver, use only pound, for a subtle flavor boost. But if you love the organic richness of livers, as I do, use a whole pound. This recipe makes a big batch of sauce, so you can use half and freeze half (it will keep well for 4 to 6 weeks).

- FOR THE SAUCE (A DOUBLE BATCH) - 1 medium onion onion, cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 medium carrot carrot, cut in 1-inch chunks - 1 medium stalk celery celery, cut in 1-inch chunks - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 1 pounds coa.r.s.ely ground veal shoulder veal shoulder (preferably freshly ground;) (preferably freshly ground;) - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - to 1 pound chicken livers chicken livers, cleaned and finely chopped - 1 cup dry white wine dry white wine - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING THE PASTA (A SINGLE BATCH) - 1 batch (1 pounds) Homemade Homemade Strangozzi Strangozzi - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality, for finis.h.i.+ng the pasta RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed deep skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta For the sauce: Drop the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic into the food processor, and mince finely to an even-textured pestata. pestata. Crumble the ground veal into a bowl, breaking up any clumps of meat. Crumble the ground veal into a bowl, breaking up any clumps of meat.

Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Sc.r.a.pe in the pestata pestata, spread it around the pan, and let it cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to stick to the pan bottom, about 5 minutes. Lower the heat a bit, and scatter the ground veal in the pan, crumbling apart any clumps. Season the meat with 1 teaspoon salt, and stir the meat and pestata pestata together. As the veal starts to sizzle and release its juices, raise the heat, and cook, stirring often, until all the liquid has evaporated and the meat is dry and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. together. As the veal starts to sizzle and release its juices, raise the heat, and cook, stirring often, until all the liquid has evaporated and the meat is dry and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes.

Clear a s.p.a.ce in the center of the pan, dump in the chicken livers, and cook them in the hot spot for a minute or two, until they're all sizzling and lightly colored, then stir the livers and veal together.

Pour in the white wine, bring it to a boil over high heat, and let it cook until almost completely evaporated. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and 2 cups of slosh water (used to rinse the tomato can and bowl), season with the remaining teaspoon of salt, and stir with the meats.

Bring the sauce to a boil, adjust the heat to keep it bubbling steadily, and let it cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes or so. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook the sauce for another hour, or until it has good flavor and is reduced to a consistency you like for dressing pasta. You can use some of the sauce right away-you'll need half of it to dress strangozzi strangozzi-or let it cool, then refrigerate or freeze for later use.

For cooking and dressing the strangozzi: strangozzi: Bring a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt) to a rolling boil. Heat half the meat sauce, about 3 cups, to a bare simmer in a wide skillet or saute pan (if you've just made the sauce, use the same pan). If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water. Bring a large pot of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt) to a rolling boil. Heat half the meat sauce, about 3 cups, to a bare simmer in a wide skillet or saute pan (if you've just made the sauce, use the same pan). If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water.

Shake any excess flour from the nests of strangozzi strangozzi, and drop all the pasta into the pot, stirring and separating the strands. Rapidly return the water to a rolling boil, and cook the strangozzi strangozzi for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until barely al dente. al dente.

Lift out the pasta quickly, let it drain for a moment, and drop it into the simmering sauce. Over low heat, toss strangozzi strangozzi and sauce together for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly and sauce together for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) (Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.) Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the strangozzi strangozzi, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and heap the pasta in warm bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

BAKED F FISH WITH S SAVORY B BREAD C CRUMBS.

Tinche al Forno Serves 6 Serves 6 Landlocked Umbria does not have a seafood cuisine. But its mountain lakes, rivers, and streams abound in freshwater fish, such as the tasty tench. This simple preparation is one I found in Umbria, and it is excellent for fillets of our sweet-water varieties, such as carp or whitefish, or even light ocean-fish fillets like sole. Serve with a salad, or with the Potato-Mushroom Cake with Braised Lentils.

- 2 pounds whitefish fillets whitefish fillets - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - Juice of a large lemon lemon (about 3 tablespoons) (about 3 tablespoons) - cup white wine white wine - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, crushed and peeled cloves, crushed and peeled - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - Zest of a large lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - teaspoon dried oregano dried oregano - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste, chopped fine - Fresh lemon lemon slices, for serving slices, for serving RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 4-quart shallow rectangular baking dish; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover Preheat the oven to 400.

Lightly salt the fish on both sides, using about teaspoon salt in all. Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, the lemon juice, white wine, and another teaspoon salt into the baking dish, and whisk together well. Drop in the garlic cloves, and stir with the dressing. Lay the fillets in the dish, turn and swish them in the dressing so both sides are thoroughly moistened, and arrange them, skin side down, in one layer.

Toss the bread crumbs in a bowl with the lemon zest, parsley, oregano, chopped peperoncino, and the remaining teaspoon salt. Drizzle with the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, and toss the crumbs well until evenly moistened with oil.

Spoon the seasoned bread crumbs on top of the fillets in a light, even layer. Bake, uncovered, until the crumbs are crisp and golden and the fish is cooked through, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Lift the fish out with a spatula, and set on a warm platter to serve family-style, or on individual plates. Spoon over it the juices left in the baking dish, and serve right away, with lemon slices on the side.

CHICKEN WITH G GIARDINIERA.

Giardiniera di Pollo Serves 6 Serves 6 Giardiniera-mixed pickled vegetables-is a ubiquitous and versatile pantry staple in Umbria, as in other parts of Italy. Originally a means of preserving the summer vegetable bounty for the lean winter months, it is now a popular vegetable preparation all year round. Sometimes homemade but more frequently bought in jars from the grocery, giardiniera giardiniera usually combines crisp chunks and slices of carrot, cauliflower, celery, and sweet or hot peppers; olives, onion, cuc.u.mbers, and turnips are in some brands of usually combines crisp chunks and slices of carrot, cauliflower, celery, and sweet or hot peppers; olives, onion, cuc.u.mbers, and turnips are in some brands of giardiniera giardiniera, too. The pickling medium might be vinegar, brine, oil, and spices in a variety of combinations and proportions.

Giardiniera right from the jar can be served as an antipasto, a salad, or a side dish. Embellished with freshly poached chicken, as in this recipe, right from the jar can be served as an antipasto, a salad, or a side dish. Embellished with freshly poached chicken, as in this recipe, giardiniera giardiniera becomes a delicious and colorful dish, suitable as an appetizer at dinner, a main course for lunch, or a practical and appealing picnic or buffet salad. becomes a delicious and colorful dish, suitable as an appetizer at dinner, a main course for lunch, or a practical and appealing picnic or buffet salad.

When I have time, I make my own giardiniera giardiniera, which I shared with you in Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen. But with many fine imported varieties of giardiniera giardiniera available in most markets, I almost always have a jar of the store-bought kind in the fridge or cupboard, for immediate enjoyment. And with convenience in mind, you don't always have to poach a chicken to enjoy available in most markets, I almost always have a jar of the store-bought kind in the fridge or cupboard, for immediate enjoyment. And with convenience in mind, you don't always have to poach a chicken to enjoy giardiniera di pollo. giardiniera di pollo. Pick up a roast chicken from the market, or use leftover roast chicken or turkey, to make this terrific dinner salad in no time at all. Pick up a roast chicken from the market, or use leftover roast chicken or turkey, to make this terrific dinner salad in no time at all.

- FOR THE POACHED CHICKEN - A 3-to-4-pound roasting chicken roasting chicken - 1 medium onion onion, quartered through the root - 1 large carrot carrot, halved crosswise - 1 large stalk celery celery, halved crosswise - 2 fresh plum tomatoes plum tomatoes - 6 or so stalks fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley, with lots of leaves - 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns black peppercorns - FOR THE SALAD - 3 cups giardiniera giardiniera, store-bought or homemade, drained - A 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts artichoke hearts, drained - cup pitted oil-cured black olives oil-cured black olives - cup chopped fresh Italian parsley Italian parsley - 3 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste - cup red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar, or more to taste - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt, or more to taste RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed soup pot or saucepan, 8-quart or larger, with a cover To poach the chicken: Rinse the bird, and put it in the pot with all of the seasoning ingredients nestled around it. Pour over it cold water to cover, and bring to a boil, then cover the pot and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the chicken is tender, about 45 to 50 minutes.

Lift the chicken from the pot, set it in a colander or strainer over a bowl, and let it cool. Remove the fat and skin, and discard. Take the meat off the bones, remove any cartilage or tendons, and tear the chicken into nice salad-sized shreds (about inch wide and 2 inches long)-you should have about 5 cups chicken pieces. (If you want to finish the stock to put away, return the bones, cartilage, and the broth in the bowl to the poaching pot, and simmer for another hour or more. Strain and cool it, then refrigerate or freeze.) To a.s.semble the salad: Toss the chicken, giardiniera giardiniera, artichokes, olives, parsley, and capers in a large bowl. Drizzle over it the olive oil and vinegar, and tumble and toss to coat all the salad pieces. Taste, and adjust the seasoning with more salt, olive oil, or vinegar. Give it a final toss, and serve.

VEAL S SCALOPPINE U UMBRIA-STYLE.

Scaloppine all'Umbra Serves 6 Serves 6 This dish showcases the skillful skillet cookery and flavorful pan sauces that delighted me in Umbria. After lightly frying the veal scallops, you start the sauce with a pestata pestata of prosciutto, anchovy, and garlic, build it up with fresh sage, wine, broth, and capers-and then reduce and intensify it to a savory and superb glaze on the scaloppine. Though veal is most prized in this preparation, I have tried subst.i.tuting scallops of chicken breast and pork; both versions were quick and delicious. Serve the scaloppine over braised spinach, or with braised carrots on the side. of prosciutto, anchovy, and garlic, build it up with fresh sage, wine, broth, and capers-and then reduce and intensify it to a savory and superb glaze on the scaloppine. Though veal is most prized in this preparation, I have tried subst.i.tuting scallops of chicken breast and pork; both versions were quick and delicious. Serve the scaloppine over braised spinach, or with braised carrots on the side.

- 2 ounces prosciutto prosciutto, roughly chopped - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 3 small anchovy fillets anchovy fillets - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 12 veal scallops veal scallops (2 to 3 ounces each) (2 to 3 ounces each) - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 8 fresh sage fresh sage leaves leaves - 1 cup white wine white wine - 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice - cup light stock light stock (chicken, turkey, or vegetable) or (chicken, turkey, or vegetable) or water water - 2 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a meat mallet; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Using the food processor, mince the prosciutto, garlic, anchovies, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into a fine-textured pestata. pestata.

Flatten the veal scallops into scaloppine, one at a time: place a scallop between sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap, and pound it with the toothed face of a meat mallet, tenderizing and spreading it into a thin oval, about inch thick.