Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 13

FRESH T TACCOZZE P PASTA WITH S SEA B Ba.s.s.

Taccuncill e San Pitre Serves 6 Serves 6 The Italian t.i.tle calls for John Dory as the fish, and by all means use it if you can find it, but otherwise sea ba.s.s will be just as delicious.

- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 medium onion onion, chopped (about 1 cup) - 1 pound red potatoes red potatoes, peeled and cut in -inch cubes - 2 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - 2 medium stalks celery celery with leaves, chopped with leaves, chopped - 2 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 12 cups (3 quarts) cold water - 1 pound skinless sea-ba.s.s fillet sea-ba.s.s fillet, cut in 1-inch cubes - 2 ripe medium tomatoes tomatoes, cut in 1-inch cubes (about 3 cups) - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Fresh Taccozze Taccozze RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A wide, heavy-bottomed saute pan or saucepan, 13-inch diameter, with a cover To make the sauce: Pour the olive oil into the big pan, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the onion. Cook, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes, until it begins to soften. Toss in the potato cubes, stir with the onion, and spread them out in the pan; cook for 5 minutes or so, tumbling them over occasionally, until they start to caramelize and stick to the pan bottom. Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan, and drop in the tomato paste; let it caramelize and toast in the hot spot for a minute, then stir together with the onion and potatoes.

Drop in the celery and bay leaves, sprinkle on the salt, stir, and get everything sizzling, then pour in the cold water. Stir up the vegetables, cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling nicely, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until the potatoes start to fall apart and thicken the sauce.

Drop in the cubes of fish and tomatoes, stir to distribute them, and heat the sauce back to an active simmer. Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or so, until the sea ba.s.s is cooked through and the tomatoes have softened and dissolved into the sauce.

Before cooking the taccozze taccozze-right in the sauce itself-I shake the diamond shapes by handfuls in a colander or strainer, removing excess flour. Then I drop all of the pasta at once into the simmering sauce. Stir and lift the taccozze taccozze with tongs, separating the flat pieces if they are stuck together. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat; cook the with tongs, separating the flat pieces if they are stuck together. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat; cook the taccozze taccozze for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until al dente. al dente. Serve immediately in warm soup bowls. Serve immediately in warm soup bowls.

FRESH P PASTA S STRIPS (MALEFANTE) WITH B BEANS & B & BACON.

Malefante con f.a.gioli e Pancetta Serves 6 Serves 6 - FOR THE BEANS - pound dried cannellini beans cannellini beans (about 1 cups), rinsed and soaked overnight (about 1 cups), rinsed and soaked overnight - 3 bay leaves bay leaves, preferably fresh - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - FOR THE SAUCE - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 12 ounces slab or thick-cut bacon slab or thick-cut bacon, cut in -inch pieces - 7 plump garlic cloves garlic cloves, peeled and sliced - 3 large stalks celery celery with leaves, chopped with leaves, chopped - 3 tablespoons tomato paste tomato paste - FOR COOKING AND DRESSING MALEFANTE MALEFANTE - 1 batch (1 pounds) Fresh Fresh Malefante Malefante - Kosher salt for the pasta pot for the pasta pot - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 3-quart pot for cooking the beans; a wide, heavy-bottomed saute pan or braising pan, preferably 14-inch diameter, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot Drain the soaked beans and put them in the pot with fresh cold water covering them by an inch or so; add the bay leaves and olive oil. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to keep the liquid simmering steadily, and cook, partially covered, about 40 minutes or until the beans are just cooked through, but not mushy. Turn off the heat, stir in teaspoon salt, and let the beans cool in the pot with the cooking liquid.

To make the sauce: Set the big pan over medium heat, and add the olive oil. Scatter in the bacon, and let cook until the fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add the sliced garlic, and let sizzle for a minute, then stir in the celery. Cook until the celery begins to soften, about 4 to 5 minutes.

Clear a s.p.a.ce in the pan, and drop in the tomato paste; let it caramelize in the hot spot for a minute or two, then stir the paste into the celery and bacon. Pour in the cooked beans with their cooking liquid, stir well, and pour in a cup or more of water to cover all the solids with enough sauce liquid. (If you want the dish to have a soupier consistency when finished, add 2 or more cups water now.) Bring the sauce to a simmer, and cook until the celery is tender and the beans are creamy, about 20 minutes, stirring in more water as needed to keep the beans and bacon immersed (or to maintain a soupier consistency). When the sauce is done, turn off the heat, and keep the sauce covered until you start cooking the malefante. malefante.

Meanwhile, as the sauce is cooking (or later if you prefer), fill the large pot with well-salted water and heat to a rolling boil. For a whole large batch of malefante malefante, heat at least 7 or even 8 quarts of water with 1 tablespoons salt.

Shake the malefante malefante by handfuls in a colander or strainer to remove the excess flour, then drop all the pieces into the boiling pasta water at the same time; stir and separate them with a spider or tongs so they don't stick together. Cover the pot, bring the water back to a boil over high heat, and cook the by handfuls in a colander or strainer to remove the excess flour, then drop all the pieces into the boiling pasta water at the same time; stir and separate them with a spider or tongs so they don't stick together. Cover the pot, bring the water back to a boil over high heat, and cook the malefante malefante, stirring frequently, for 4 minutes or so, until al dente. al dente. (If the sauce is off the heat, return it to the simmer now to dress the pasta.) (If the sauce is off the heat, return it to the simmer now to dress the pasta.) Lift out the malefante malefante with a spider, drain for a moment, and spill them into the simmering sauce, working quickly. Toss pasta and sauce until all the strips of pasta are coated. Adjust the consistency of the dish, adding more pasta water if you want it looser, or thickening it quickly over high heat. with a spider, drain for a moment, and spill them into the simmering sauce, working quickly. Toss pasta and sauce until all the strips of pasta are coated. Adjust the consistency of the dish, adding more pasta water if you want it looser, or thickening it quickly over high heat.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle a cup or so of grated cheese over the malefante malefante, and toss well. Heap it into warm pasta bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

SPAGHETTI WITH C CALAMARI, SCALLOPS & S & SHRIMP.

Spaghetti di Tornola Serves 6 Serves 6 For me, there's no better way to dress spaghetti than with a fresh seafood sauce. And this sauce, from the old fis.h.i.+ng port of Termoli in Molise, is as simple and delicious as any. In the restaurants by the docks in Termoli (near the old citadel called Tornola), just-caught seafood is served in a brodetto. brodetto. You eat the seafood, and then the kitchen will toss spaghetti into the sauce you've left in your bowl. In my version of You eat the seafood, and then the kitchen will toss spaghetti into the sauce you've left in your bowl. In my version of spaghetti di Tornola spaghetti di Tornola, the calamari, scallops, and shrimp are part of the pasta dressing, but you can eat the brodetto brodetto in separate courses, Termoli-style, if you like. In summer, I use my mother's home-grown, sun-ripened cherry tomatoes to make an exceptional sauce, but in winter, a couple of cups of canned plum tomatoes make a fine subst.i.tute. in separate courses, Termoli-style, if you like. In summer, I use my mother's home-grown, sun-ripened cherry tomatoes to make an exceptional sauce, but in winter, a couple of cups of canned plum tomatoes make a fine subst.i.tute.

- 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - pound medium calamari calamari, cleaned - pound sea scallops sea scallops (preferably "dry," not soaked in preservative) (preferably "dry," not soaked in preservative) - 1 pound large shrimp shrimp - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons more for finis.h.i.+ng the pasta - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 4 cups cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes, halved; or 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes, crushed - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - cup chopped fresh basil fresh basil - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a boil.

To prepare the seafood: Cut the calamari bodies, including the tentacles, into -inch rings. Pull off the side muscle or "foot" from the scallops and discard. Remove the sh.e.l.ls, tails, and digestive veins from the shrimp; rinse and pat dry.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium-high heat, scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to sizzle and color, about 1 to 2 minutes. Dump in the cherry tomatoes, sprinkle on the teaspoon salt and the peperoncino, and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring and tossing tomatoes in the pan, until softened and sizzling in their juices but still intact.

Start cooking the pasta first and the seafood right after, so they are ready at the same time. Drop the spaghetti into the boiling water, stir, and return the water to a boil.

As it cooks, scatter the calamari rings and tentacles in the pan with the tomatoes, and get them sizzling over medium-high heat. Let the pieces cook for a minute or two, then toss in the scallops, and spread them out to heat and start sizzling quickly. After they've cooked for a couple of minutes, toss in the shrimp, ladle in a cup of boiling pasta water, stir the seafood and sauce together, bring to a steady simmer, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, just until the shrimp turn pink and begin to curl.

As soon as the spaghetti is barely al dente al dente, lift it from the pot, drain briefly, and drop into the skillet. Toss the pasta and the simmering sauce together for a minute or two, until the spaghetti is nicely coated with sauce and perfectly al dente al dente, and the seafood is distributed throughout the pasta. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the basil and parsley, and drizzle on another 2 tablespoons olive oil. Toss well, heap the spaghetti into warm bowls, giving each portion plenty of seafood, and serve immediately.

BRAISED O OCTOPUS WITH S SPAGHETTI.

Polpi in Purgatorio Serves 6 Serves 6 I love this simple method for cooking whole octopus so it explodes with flavor. You just put it in a heavy pan and let it cook very slowly (with only olive oil, sliced onions, and olives to season it) for a couple of hours. As it cooks, it releases all of its natural, tasty water, which serves as a braising liquid. Though the meat loses some volume, its flavor is retained in the liquid, which naturally cooks into a great dressing for spaghetti or other pasta. In this recipe, the meat is cut into chunks that are tossed with the spaghetti and cooking juices. For a special occasion, though, you can serve the whole octopus, uncut (or two smaller octopuses, as called for here). If you dress the spaghetti with the juices alone and set the octopus on top, with the tentacles curling around and under, it makes a beautiful presentation.

You can also serve this delectable cephalopod-either whole or cut into pieces-over freshly cooked soft polenta or slabs of grilled polenta. And any leftover octopus meat or sauce can be incorporated into a terrific risotto; with so much flavor in them, just a small amount of leftovers is all you'll need to make a great risotto for two.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 large onions onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups) - 2 cleaned octopuses octopuses (about 1 pounds each) (about 1 pounds each) - 1 cup Gaeta or other brine-cured black olives Gaeta or other brine-cured black olives, pitted - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 1 pound spaghetti spaghetti - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, 4-quart capacity, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Pour 6 tablespoons of the olive oil into the saucepan, and set it over low heat. Scatter the onion slices over the bottom of the pan, and lay the octopuses on top. Scatter the olives over the octopuses, cover the pan, and let the octopuses heat slowly, releasing their liquid, and starting to cook in it. After an hour or so, uncover the pan and check to see that there is plenty of octopus liquid in the pan. If it seems dry, add 1 cup of water at a time. This recipe should yield 2 cups of sauce when the octopus is done.

Continue the covered slow cooking for another hour, until the octopuses are very tender. Start testing for doneness after 1 hours: stick the tines of a fork in the thickest part of each octopus; when the fork slides out easily, the meat is done.

Remove the octopuses from the pot, and let them cool slightly. To make a meaty octopus sauce, cut both octopuses into -inch chunks, skin and all (or you can leave the octopuses whole for serving). Measure the liquid remaining in the saucepan. Again, you should have about 2 cups total. If the volume is greater, return the juices to the saucepan and boil to reduce it. Put the cut octopus meat and the juices in the skillet for dressing the pasta.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt). Drop in the spaghetti, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, return the water to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and cook the pasta until barely al dente. al dente.

As the spaghetti cooks, bring the octopus meat and sauce in the skillet to a rapid simmer; taste, and add teaspoon salt if needed (octopus is naturally salty). Stir in the parsley.

Lift the spaghetti from the pot, drain briefly, and drop it into the skillet. Toss the pasta and the simmering sauce together for a minute or two, until the spaghetti is nicely coated with sauce and perfectly al dente al dente, and the octopus chunks are distributed throughout the pasta. Turn off the heat, drizzle over the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and toss again. Heap the spaghetti into warm bowls, making sure each portion gets plenty of octopus pieces, and serve immediately.

THREE M MEATS B BRAISED IN T TOMATOES WITH R RIGATONI.

Ragu Misto alla Molisana Makes meat to serve 6 to 8 and enough sauce for 2 pounds pasta Makes meat to serve 6 to 8 and enough sauce for 2 pounds pasta This is one of those bountiful braises that you make when you want to delight a big table of family or friends, offering them an a.s.sortment of tender meats and pasta dressed with the braising sauce. Like other slowly cooked braises, this gives you two courses from one saucepan. Serve pasta dressed with the meaty-tasting tomato sauce as a first course-there's enough to dress 2 pounds of rigatoni. And then serve the pork, veal, and sausage as a second course.

Of course, you don't have to serve it all for the same meal. Use half the sauce to dress a pound of pasta, freeze the rest, and you have a future meal all ready to go. And after serving the ragu ragu, take any leftover bits and pieces of meat, shred and chop them up, clean the meat from the veal-chop bone, and blend all of it in with any leftover sauce. I bet you'll have enough sauce with meaty morsels for a lasagna or other baked pasta-yet another meal from that one big braising pan.

- FOR COOKING THE MEATS AND SAUCE - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finis.h.i.+ng - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 large onions onions, chopped (about 3 cups) - 1 sprig fresh rosemary fresh rosemary - 1 bay leaf bay leaf, preferably fresh - 3 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 2-pound chunk boneless pork b.u.t.t pork b.u.t.t - 1-pound veal shoulder chop veal shoulder chop - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 cup red wine red wine - 10 cups (three 28-ounce cans) Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 1 pound sweet Italian sausages sweet Italian sausages (without fennel seeds) (without fennel seeds) - FOR COOKING AND SERVING A PASTA COURSE - 2 pounds rigatoni rigatoni (or just 1 pound; see headnote) (or just 1 pound; see headnote) - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano- Reggiano, for a milder flavor), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, 8-quart capacity, with a cover; a large pasta-cooking pot; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Pour the olive oil into the big saucepan, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, let it sizzle and start to color for a couple of minutes, stir in the chopped onions, rosemary, and bay leaf, and season with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for 7 or 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions are softened and translucent.

Season the pork and veal chop all over with 1 teaspoons salt. Push the onions to one side of the pot, and lay the meat pieces in the pan bottom. Brown the meats slowly, turning frequently so all sides are evenly colored, about 10 minutes in all. When the meats are nicely browned, sprinkle the peperoncino in the pan bottom to toast for a minute, then stir the onions back into the center of the pot, sc.r.a.ping up the meat juices.

Turn up the heat, pour in the red wine, bring to a boil, and cook until almost completely evaporated. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, slosh out the cans with 4 cups of cold water, and add that as well. Stir in the remaining teaspoon of salt. Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat, then adjust the flame to keep a gentle, steady bubbling. Cook covered for an hour, stirring and turning the meat pieces over occasionally, then set the cover ajar to allow the sauce to reduce gradually as it bubbles away. Cook another hour, until the pork and veal are just tender, then drop in the sausages and continue simmering for another 45 minutes to an hour.

After nearly 3 hours of total braising, the meats should be extremely tender and readily broken apart; the sauce should be thick and flavorful. Check the concentration of the sauce during the long cooking: If it seems too thin, remove the cover altogether. If it's reducing too fast, cover the pan tightly and lower heat.

If you'll be serving the meats and dressing pasta right away, remove the meat to a warm platter, take out a couple of cups of sauce for the meat, and leave the rest in the big saucepan to dress pasta (about 8 cups sauce for 2 pounds rigatoni, or 4 cups sauce for 1 pound). If you'll be serving the meat and sauce later, leave them both in the saucepan to cool; refrigerate, or freeze for longer keeping.

To cook and dress rigatoni with sauce: fill the pasta pot with plenty of well-salted water (at least 6 quarts water with a tablespoon salt for 1 pound of rigatoni; 8 quarts and 1 tablespoons salt for 2 pounds), and heat to a rolling boil. Stir in the rigatoni, return the water to a boil, and cook until the pasta is just al dente. al dente.

Meanwhile, if you're using the sauce right away, bring it back to a simmer in the big saucepan or a big skillet, preferably 14 inches in diameter. If the sauce has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta cooking water.

Lift the rigatoni out of the pot, drain briefly, and drop them into the sauce. Toss well for a minute or so, over low heat, until the rigatoni are nicely coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss again; if you like, drizzle on more olive oil, and toss that in as well. Serve the pasta right away, transferring it to a large warm bowl to serve family-style, or heaping it in individual warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss again; if you like, drizzle on more olive oil, and toss that in as well. Serve the pasta right away, transferring it to a large warm bowl to serve family-style, or heaping it in individual warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

To serve the meat as a secondo secondo or main course: Slice the pork and veal. Pour the reserved sauce in a skillet, lay in the slices and sausages, and place over low heat until the meat is heated through. Serve on a warmed platter with some of the sauce, pa.s.sing the rest. or main course: Slice the pork and veal. Pour the reserved sauce in a skillet, lay in the slices and sausages, and place over low heat until the meat is heated through. Serve on a warmed platter with some of the sauce, pa.s.sing the rest.

Molise, the second-smallest region in Italy (after the Valle d'Aosta), is also its newest: until 1963, it was joined with Abruzzo. It has a relatively small economy, focusing on agriculture and, on the coast, fis.h.i.+ng.Campoba.s.so, the regional capital, has been destroyed by earthquakes throughout the ages, but the heart of the city, crowned by the ma.s.sive Castello Monforte, still boasts ancient churches and winding medieval roads; I am almost surprised, when walking a narrow Campoba.s.so alley, suddenly to spill out onto a large piazza with tall trees. It is through these streets that, in June, the region's most important festival, Sagra dei Misteri (Festival of Mysteries), makes its way, a winding parade of wooden religious symbols.Not far from Campoba.s.so is Saepinum Saepinum, a town founded by Samnites, a highly civilized people who predated the Romans. When the Romans themselves moved in, they built a theater and temples to Apollo and Jupiter, the remains of which can still be seen.Isernia, another ancient Roman city, boasts a Roman aqueduct and bridge, and its streets still follow the Roman grid network of cardo cardo and and dec.u.ma.n.u.s dec.u.ma.n.u.s, the two main intersecting streets. The elegant Fraterna Fountain reuses old Roman stonework and looks like a mini-palazzo, with six portico arches in front.I once went to Larino Larino in late May for the festival in honor of the town's patron saint, San Pardo. The whole town was decorated, and hundreds of carts, covered in handmade silk flowers, were pulled through the city streets by snow-white oxen. Larino's cathedral is one of the most ornate in Molise, and its amphitheater the oldest in all of Italy. in late May for the festival in honor of the town's patron saint, San Pardo. The whole town was decorated, and hundreds of carts, covered in handmade silk flowers, were pulled through the city streets by snow-white oxen. Larino's cathedral is one of the most ornate in Molise, and its amphitheater the oldest in all of Italy.Termoli is a busy port and one of Molise's best beach resorts. Its cathedral houses the relics of martyrs brought back to Termoli after the Crusades. The imposing castle, built in the thirteenth century by Frederick II, once protected Termoli from pirates and marauding Saracens (maybe they wanted their bones back). is a busy port and one of Molise's best beach resorts. Its cathedral houses the relics of martyrs brought back to Termoli after the Crusades. The imposing castle, built in the thirteenth century by Frederick II, once protected Termoli from pirates and marauding Saracens (maybe they wanted their bones back).Agnone is a musical town, famous for bells, from lowly cow bells to ornate pontifical bells. But I come to Agnone to see Luca Giordano's moving portrait of the Holy Family in the Church of San Marco. Like most of Giordano's paintings, it is an upward spiral of movement, all billowing robes and dramatic light. is a musical town, famous for bells, from lowly cow bells to ornate pontifical bells. But I come to Agnone to see Luca Giordano's moving portrait of the Holy Family in the Church of San Marco. Like most of Giordano's paintings, it is an upward spiral of movement, all billowing robes and dramatic light.Anyone who enjoyed Umberto Eco's Name of the Rose Name of the Rose will want to visit the will want to visit the Castel San Vincenzo Castel San Vincenzo, situated on a high plain with snow-covered mountains in the distance. Originally built to defend the Benedictines from the Saracens, the Castel contains the ninth-century Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno; its frescoes are a treat for the eye. In the Crypt of the Epiphany, you'll find the martyrdom of St. Stephen, but my favorite is the martyrdom of St. Lawrence, or San Lorenzo; he is being grilled at a very high temperature but merely appears to be sunbathing.Monteroduni wins the prize for Molise's most impressive castle, the Pignatelli. I love its square shape and four cylindrical towers, one on each corner. Built, destroyed, and rebuilt, the castle is at the apex of the town, and houses objects from the Pignatelli family, a museum devoted to local agricultural life. It even has an old torture chamber.-T wins the prize for Molise's most impressive castle, the Pignatelli. I love its square shape and four cylindrical towers, one on each corner. Built, destroyed, and rebuilt, the castle is at the apex of the town, and houses objects from the Pignatelli family, a museum devoted to local agricultural life. It even has an old torture chamber.-TANYA Overleaf: The town of Tursi in southeastern Basilicata

MY FRIEND FRANCO LUISI HAS BEEN INVITING ME FOR YEARS TO visit Lucania, his region, now called Basilicata, nestled in the instep of the foot of Italy. I did take a quick visit to Basilicata during one of my research trips to Puglia. I had gone to Altamura in search of the best bread in Italy, as claimed, when Franco came to meet me and swept me across the regional border into Basilicata. Matera was the first city where we stopped, and I knew then and there that this was a special place, a place somewhat forgotten, but once you crossed its borders there was no letting go. That visit led to many subsequent trips to this place of mystical landscapes and very special people-people who want you to love their land and the intense flavors of their foods. visit Lucania, his region, now called Basilicata, nestled in the instep of the foot of Italy. I did take a quick visit to Basilicata during one of my research trips to Puglia. I had gone to Altamura in search of the best bread in Italy, as claimed, when Franco came to meet me and swept me across the regional border into Basilicata. Matera was the first city where we stopped, and I knew then and there that this was a special place, a place somewhat forgotten, but once you crossed its borders there was no letting go. That visit led to many subsequent trips to this place of mystical landscapes and very special people-people who want you to love their land and the intense flavors of their foods.

My friend Franco had returned with his wife to live in San Martino d'Agri, in the middle of Basilicata, where he was born. Franco is a wine merchant who has made his home in the United States with his family for more than fifteen years, but the call of his Lucania was too compelling, so he returned to Italy to settle in Rome-close enough, since San Martino d'Agri is only four hours away.

With Franco, I explored the food bounty of this little-known and spa.r.s.ely populated region. The fare is pasta, vegetables, mountain cheeses such as pecorino and provola, and lamb and pork, plus a taste of fish in the coastal towns. But within this seemingly limited list there was a world of flavors to discover. Durum-wheat pasta, dry or freshly made, reigns; Bucatini with Sausage, Pasta with Baked Cherry Tomatoes, Ditalini with Broccoli di Rape Broccoli di Rape, Rigatoni with Lentils, and Fiery Maccheroni Maccheroni are just some of what I discovered and want to share with you. are just some of what I discovered and want to share with you.

One Sunday, Franco's sister Angela was unstoppable as she made for us ferricelli ferricelli, fresh pasta, which she rolled on a knitting needle and dressed with a sausage sauce; then lasagnelle lasagnelle, which she dressed with Sarconi beans and tomato. With her two forefingers she dragged the dough on a board to create raschiatelli raschiatelli, which looked like larger cavatelli, and she dressed them with broccoli di rape. broccoli di rape. The Sarconi beans, from the town of the same name, were especially memorable. These tender, meaty, plump white beans resembling canellini turned the The Sarconi beans, from the town of the same name, were especially memorable. These tender, meaty, plump white beans resembling canellini turned the lasagnelle lasagnelle dish into a rare treat. What was ever present in each one of these dishes was the dish into a rare treat. What was ever present in each one of these dishes was the diavollicchio diavollicchio, the local chili pepper, used mostly in powdered form. The best of these peppers come from Senise, a small town in the center of Basilicata, next to the Lago di Monte Cotugno. The cla.s.sic appetizer here is the Zafaran crusck. Zafaran crusck. And what would that be? Well, it's like a chip made with thin-skinned, tender peppers from Senise. First they are air-dried, then popped into hot oil to crisp, and they are eaten as a snack. And what would that be? Well, it's like a chip made with thin-skinned, tender peppers from Senise. First they are air-dried, then popped into hot oil to crisp, and they are eaten as a snack.

What I found amazing is that a sprinkle of the chili powder changed an otherwise mundane dish, such as boiled potatoes, into something festive. But also try tossing some fried fresh Senise peppers with boiled potatoes and you'll have another flavor revelation.

Even Franco got into the kitchen with his sister that Sunday during my visit, and showed me his favorite dish. He quickly sliced an abundant amount of garlic, let it cook in extra-virgin olive oil until golden, then turned off the heat and sprinkled one heaping teaspoon of the peperoncino powder into the hot oil, exclaiming, "Alla Zift." "Alla Zift." Now there is no such word in Italian, but he kept repeating it- Now there is no such word in Italian, but he kept repeating it-Zift, Zift-and I realized it was the sound that the pepper makes when it hits the hot oil. He dressed a pound of cooked pasta with that, and behold, the most delicious three-ingredient recipe I have ever tasted.

The condiment of choice in Basilicata is some form of fresh or cured pork, and luganighe luganighe, the sausages of the Lucani, are the front-runner. In a land where summers are hot and meat is scarce, the best way to preserve it is to make it into sausages or salamis, add some herbs and peperoncino to keep those nasty bacteria away, and you have flavoring for pasta and soups for the whole year. One of my favorite soups from Basilicata is Wedding Soup-Minestra Maritata, with mixed vegetables, little meatb.a.l.l.s, and cubes of provola cheese.

There is great olive oil produced in Basilicata, and the renowned wine is Aglianico del Volture, a full-bodied red from the primitive varietals of which Paternoster is a very good producer. But on one early morning we headed out to visit Azienda Agricola Gli Angeli di Crocco in Montalbano Jonico, where we had some excellent Malvasia and a plateful of extraordinary just-picked figs. Azienda Crocco, run by a father-and-son team, is perched on a hill surrounded by a mult.i.tude of the most fascinating and beautiful dry clay formations, called calanchi. calanchi. These These calanchi calanchi make up the sides of the surrounding hills, which seem like drapes flowing in the wind, and extend serpentlike for miles, resembling the Great Wall of China. An amazing sight, but, then, this is the make up the sides of the surrounding hills, which seem like drapes flowing in the wind, and extend serpentlike for miles, resembling the Great Wall of China. An amazing sight, but, then, this is the terroir terroir from which Matera, the dwelling in stone also known as I Sa.s.si, was formed. from which Matera, the dwelling in stone also known as I Sa.s.si, was formed.

The wines from the hills of Basilicata were long traded for the baccala baccala of the Nordic waters. As in most of Italy, of the Nordic waters. As in most of Italy, baccala baccala has found its way, along with has found its way, along with Zuppa di Pesce Zuppa di Pesce, onto the seafood menus of Basilicata, especially on the seacoast around Maratea, a beautiful summer resort.

For one of the smallest, least populated, and least known regions of Italy, Basilicata has a lot on its table, and there is no more faithful son than Franco Luisi singing its much-deserved praises.

WEDDING S SOUP.

Minestra Maritata Makes about 5 quarts Makes about 5 quarts In the dialect of the Lucani (as natives of Basilicata are known) maritare maritare means "to wed," and I have always thought that this wonderful soup was so named because it was customarily served at wedding celebrations. Recently, however, while doing some research, I came upon another explanation of why it is called means "to wed," and I have always thought that this wonderful soup was so named because it was customarily served at wedding celebrations. Recently, however, while doing some research, I came upon another explanation of why it is called maritata maritata-because it weds vegetables (in the soup base) with meat (in the polpette polpette), and with this added protein it becomes a complete and balanced one-course meal. I like both interpretations of the name and believe they're compatible. Certainly a young couple, on the brink of their first night as newlyweds, can use this fortifying nourishment!

There are many ways to prepare and serve a soup with multiple elements like this one, and you can of course play around with the recipe here. One variation is to fry the meatb.a.l.l.s rather than poaching them. Though it takes a bit more work, it does give another layer of flavor (see my recipe for Meatb.a.l.l.s in Broth in the Umbria chapter, for instructions on frying little meatb.a.l.l.s for soup). Another option is to add cubes of provola to the soup just before serving. If you can get a good-quality Italian provola (mild provolone), this embellishment is superb. I've included instructions for this step at the end of the main recipe.

- FOR THE VEGETABLE SOUP - 1 medium onion onion, cut in chunks - 2 medium stalks celery celery with leaves, cut in chunks with leaves, cut in chunks - 1 small carrot carrot, cut in chunks - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - cup loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves leaves - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 7 quarts cold water - 1 head escarole escarole (about 1 pound), cut in -inch shreds (about 1 pound), cut in -inch shreds - 1 bunch Swiss chard Swiss chard (about 1 pound), cut in -inch shreds (about 1 pound), cut in -inch shreds - 1 large fennel fennel bulb (about 1 pound), trimmed and sliced inch thick bulb (about 1 pound), trimmed and sliced inch thick - 1 pound zucchini zucchini, cut in -inch pieces (about 3 small zucchini) - 2 tablespoons kosher salt kosher salt - FOR THE MEATb.a.l.l.s - 4 ounces stale country bread country bread, crusts removed (about 3 or 4 slices) - cup milk milk, or more as needed - 1 pound sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds) (without fennel seeds) - 1 large egg egg, beaten - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - Freshly ground black pepper black pepper to taste to taste - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - FOR SERVING - Freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing - Extra-virgin olive oil, best-quality - pound provola provola, cut in -inch cubes (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a heavy-bottomed soup- or stockpot, 8-quart capacity or larger, with a cover; a 4-quart saucepan for blanching the meatb.a.l.l.s Using the food processor, mince the onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and basil into a smooth paste (pestata). (pestata).

Heat the olive oil in the soup pot over high heat, and sc.r.a.pe in the pestata. pestata. Cook, stirring, until the Cook, stirring, until the pestata pestata has dried out and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. Pour the cold water into the pot, stir up the has dried out and just begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 5 minutes. Pour the cold water into the pot, stir up the pestata pestata, put on the cover, and bring the water to a boil. Lower the heat, and simmer the broth for about 15 minutes, blending the flavors, then stir in the greens, the fennel, the zucchini, and the 2 tablespoons salt. Return to the simmer, and cook covered for 45 minutes or so, until the greens are tender. Remove the cover, and cook at an active simmer for another 45 minutes or longer, until the soup has reduced in volume and the flavors are concentrated to your taste.

While the soup simmers, prepare the meatb.a.l.l.s. Tear the bread into chunks, put them in a small bowl, and pour in just enough milk to cover them. Let soak for a few minutes, until completely saturated, then lift the bread out of the bowl and squeeze out the milk in your fists (use the milk for another purpose). Tear the moistened bread into shreds, and toss them into a large bowl.

Remove the sausage meat from the casing, and crumble it in with the shredded bread, breaking up any meat clumps with your fingers. Pour the beaten egg over the meat, and sprinkle the salt, freshly ground black pepper, and parsley on top. Fold and toss and squeeze all the ingredients through your fingers to distribute them evenly. Scoop up a small amount of the meat mix-about a heaping teaspoon-and roll it in your palms to form a 1-inch ball (the size of a large grape). Continue to form b.a.l.l.s until all the meat is used up.

Meanwhile, fill the 4-quart saucepan with 3 quarts of lightly salted water to poach the meatb.a.l.l.s, and bring it to a boil. Drop in the meatb.a.l.l.s, cover the pot, and return the water to a boil quickly. Adjust the heat to keep the water simmering gently, and poach the meatb.a.l.l.s, uncovered, about 5 minutes, until cooked through. Lift them out with a spider or strainer, let drain briefly, and drop them into the finished soup (discard the poaching water).

Bring the soup to a simmer, and cook meatb.a.l.l.s and soup together for about 5 minutes. (If you'll be serving the soup later, put the meatb.a.l.l.s in a bowl. Reheat them in the soup, and simmer 5 minutes just before serving.) Turn off the heat, and ladle the soup, with plenty of vegetables and meatb.a.l.l.s, into warm bowls. Sprinkle each serving with some of the grated cheese, and give it a drizzle of your best olive oil. Serve right away, pa.s.sing more cheese at the table.

If you are adding provola to the soup, as I like to do, drop in the cubes just after the meatb.a.l.l.s have simmered in it and you've turned off the heat. Give the soup one good stir to distribute the provola pieces, which will begin to melt right away, and immediately ladle individual portions into your warm bowls. (Don't leave the provola in the soup pot for a long time before serving, because it will become stringy.) POTATOES WITH P PEPERONCINO.

Patate Lessate con Diavolicchio Serves 6 Serves 6 Potatoes will never taste the same after you have tried this dish. This preparation captures the beauty of the cooking of Basilicata: straightforward, simple, but full of brilliant flavor. Even if you are not so pa.s.sionate about hot pepper, I encourage you not to be timid with the peperoncino in this dish.

Of course, this kind of simple cooking depends on fine ingredients. Excellent olive oil and good potatoes are key. I like russets, but Yukon Gold or waxy varieties would work, too.

- teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 pounds large russet potatoes russet potatoes - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 5 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Spice grinder or small mortar and pestle; a 4-quart saucepan; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 8-to-10-inch diameter Put the peperoncino flakes in the spice grinder or mortar and pestle, and grind to a fine powder.

Put the potatoes in the 4-quart pot with water to cover them by about 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Cook just until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork or sharp knife blade (don't let them get mushy), then drain and let them cool. Peel off the skins, and cut the potatoes crosswise into round slices, about inch thick. Put the slices in a large warmed serving bowl, sprinkle the salt over them, and toss well to season. Cover the bowl with a cloth kitchen towel to keep them warm.

To make the dressing: Pour the olive oil in the skillet, and set over medium heat for a couple of minutes. Strew the sliced garlic and sprinkle the ground peperoncino in the hot oil, and let both sizzle, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat, and stir in the chopped parsley. Drizzle the seasoned oil from the skillet over the warm potatoes, and toss to coat all the slices. Serve immediately.

ARTICHOKES, FRESH F FAVAS & P & POTATOES.

Ciaudedda Serves 6 or more Serves 6 or more The trio of seasonal vegetables here lends a distinctive flavor and texture to this skillet-cooked vegetable dish. Crisp and soft at the same time, it is a deluxe version of home fries, with the artichokes and favas adding color and excitement to the familiar flavor of pan-fried potatoes. It's a great dinner vegetable dish, as well as a terrific accompaniment to eggs at a springtime breakfast or brunch. (If you are watching your carbs, omit the potatoes and increase the amounts of other vegetables by half.) - 1 pounds russet potatoes russet potatoes - 3 pounds fresh fava-bean pods fresh fava-bean pods, sh.e.l.led - 1 lemon lemon for acidulated water for acidulated water - 6 medium artichokes artichokes (about 3 pounds) (about 3 pounds) - 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 ounces pancetta pancetta, cut in -inch pieces - 2 small onions onions, thinly sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: 2 large saucepans; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger, with a cover Put the potatoes in a pot with water to cover them by about 2 inches, and bring to a boil. Cook just until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork or sharp knife blade (don't let them get mushy), then drain and let them cool. Peel off the skin, and cut the potatoes crosswise into round slices, about inch thick.

To prepare the favas: Bring 4 quarts of water to boil in another saucepan, drop in the sh.e.l.led favas, and blanch about 2 minutes, until they turn bright green. Drain the beans, and drop them right away into a large bowl of ice water. When chilled, drain the favas again; peel off (and discard) the inner skins. You should have about 2 cups peeled favas.

To prepare the artichokes: Fill a large bowl with a couple of quarts of cold water, and squeeze in the juice of the lemon, dropping in the cut lemon halves, too. Snap off the thick outside artichoke leaves; cut off the top third of the remaining leaf tips, and trim the stem tip. Peel the globe of the artichoke, removing the stubs of the plucked leaves and the skin covering the stem, to expose the lighter-colored tender flesh. Slice the artichoke in half lengthwise, and sc.r.a.pe out the choke (if present) with a paring knife or the edge of a teaspoon. Slice the artichoke halves into 1-inch-thick wedges, and drop them into the bowl of acidulated water.

Pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the pancetta pieces. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, as they render fat, then stir in the onion slices, sprinkle in the peperoncino, and cook another 4 minutes or so, until the onions are sizzling and wilting. Drain the artichoke wedges and spread them in the pan; stir and toss gently to coat them with oil. Cover the skillet, and cook for about 15 minutes, until the artichokes are tender, stirring now and then.

Spread the sliced potato rounds in the pan, scatter the favas on top, and turn them over with a stiff spatula, mixing them with the hot vegetables. Cover and cook for 10 minutes or so, stirring and turning the vegetables over gently so the potatoes don't break apart too much. If they're sticking to the bottom of the skillet, loosen with a few tablespoons of water, sc.r.a.pe them up, and turn them over. If there's liquid in the pan, remove the cover and cook it away over slightly higher heat. When the potatoes start to brown, sprinkle on the salt, and drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil all over.

Cook, uncovered, for another 5 to 10 minutes, occasionally lifting and tumbling the vegetables over with the spatula. As you do, sc.r.a.pe up the crusty glaze that forms on the skillet bottom, and turn it with the vegetables, to incorporate the crustiness throughout. When everything is golden and lightly crusted, turn off the heat. Serve the ciaudedda ciaudedda family-style while still hot, right from the skillet. family-style while still hot, right from the skillet.

BUCATINI WITH S SAUSAGE.

Bucatini con Salsicce Makes about 7 cups, enough for 2 pounds of bucatini or other pasta, serving 12 Makes about 7 cups, enough for 2 pounds of bucatini or other pasta, serving 12 This recipe makes a wonderful tomato-and-sausage sauce for pasta. Typical of Basilicata, it is uncomplicated yet yields a complex and delicious flavor. It is important to use the best sausage, preferably a mix freshly made by a real Italian butcher. If there's one available to you, ask for sweet, all-pork sausage, preferably a medium grind of meat with some texture, rather than a fine grind, which tends to be pasty. To save work, since you want the meat to be loose, ask for the sausage mix before it is put in the casing. As for the pasta, I recommend bucatini, which is what I first had in Basilicata. But I like spaghetti with this, too-a whole-wheat spaghetti would be especially nice.

- 1 pounds sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage (preferably without fennel seeds) (preferably without fennel seeds) - 1 cup white wine white wine - cup whole Tuscan-style pickled peperoncini pickled peperoncini, drained (about 24 small peppers) - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 6 cups (two 28-ounce cans) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 1 pound bucatini bucatini (or perciatelli or thick spaghetti) (or perciatelli or thick spaghetti) - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed, high-sided skillet or saute pan, 14-inch diameter; a large pot for cooking the pasta Remove the sausage meat from the casings, and put it in a large bowl. Break it up with your fingers into the smallest possible bits, pour the white wine over it, and toss the crumbled meat until it's evenly moistened. Remove the stems of the drained peperoncini, sc.r.a.pe out the seeds (or leave some, if you like it hot), and slice the peppers crosswise into -inch rings.

Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 3 minutes. Toss the sausage meat into the skillet, and spread it out, breaking apart any clumps, and stirring with the oil and garlic. Raise the heat a bit, and cook for 5 minutes or so, stirring now and then, as the meat juices bubble and evaporate. When the pan is dry and the sausage starts sizzling, season it with the salt, and scatter the peperoncini slices in the pan. Stir and cook for a minute or two, until the peppers are sizzling, too.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes and 3 cups of water (with which you sloshed out the tomato containers), and stir well. Cover the pan, bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and adjust the heat to keep a steady bubbling boil. Cook for an hour or so, until the sauce has reduced by nearly half, stirring more frequently as it thickens; if it is still loose, cook uncovered for a few minutes more. When the sauce has a consistency you like for dressing pasta, turn off the heat. You can use some of the sauce right away-you'll need half of it to dress a pound of bucatini-or let it cool (then refrigerate or freeze) for later use.

For the pasta: Fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a rolling boil. Drop in the bucatini, stirring and separating the strands. Cover the pot, return the water to a boil over high heat, then set the cover ajar and cook the pasta until barely al dente. al dente. Meanwhile, heat half the sausage sauce in the big skillet back to a bare simmer; if it has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water. Meanwhile, heat half the sausage sauce in the big skillet back to a bare simmer; if it has cooled and thickened, loosen it with some of the pasta water.

When done, lift the bucatini from the pot, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the sauce. Toss together for a minute or two, until all the strands are coated and perfectly al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the cup grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil if you like, and toss again. Spoon the pasta into warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the cup grated cheese over the pasta, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil if you like, and toss again. Spoon the pasta into warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

PASTA WITH B BAKED C CHERRY T TOMATOES.

Pasta con Pomodori al Forno Serves 6 Serves 6 The deep flavor and delightfully varied textures of this pasta dressing develop in the oven, where you bake the cherry tomatoes coated with bread crumbs just before you toss them with pasta. Roasting them this way intensifies their flavor, and the bread crumbs become crunchy. It is a lovely dish to make when sweet cherry tomatoes are in season, but it is also good with the lesser cherry-tomato varieties you get in winter; these can be used successfully here because of the concentration of taste and texture during baking.

This dressing is suitable for almost any pasta, but I particularly like it with spaghetti, gemelli, or penne. Because the tomatoes are at their best as soon as they come out of the oven, the dressing and pasta should be cooked simultaneously, and I have written the recipe to ensure that you will have your pasta and baked tomatoes ready for each other at the same time.

- 3 pints cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes, halved - cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 pound spaghetti, gemelli spaghetti, gemelli, or penne penne - 10 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 1 cup loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves, shredded leaves, shredded - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing - 4 ounces ricotta ricotta or or ricotta salata ricotta salata RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large, rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350.

Toss the cherry-tomato halves in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Sprinkle over tomatoes the bread crumbs, salt, and peperoncino; toss well to coat the tomatoes evenly. Pour the tomatoes onto the parchment-lined sheet, and spread them apart in a single layer. Bake until the tomatoes are shriveled and lightly caramelized (but not dried out), about 25 minutes in all.

Meanwhile, fill the large pot with salted water, and heat to a rolling boil. When the tomatoes are nearly done, drop the pasta into the pot, stir, and return the water to a boil.

As soon as the pasta is cooking, pour the remaining olive oil into the big skillet, set it over medium-high heat, and scatter in the sliced garlic. Cook for a minute or two, until it is sizzling and lightly colored, then ladle in about 2 cups of the pasta cooking water, and bring to a vigorous boil, stirring up the garlic. Let half the water evaporate, then lower the heat, stir in the chopped parsley, and keep the sauce barely simmering.

As soon as the tomatoes are done, remove them from the oven.

When the pasta is al dente al dente, lift it from the water, drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet, still over low heat. Toss pasta quickly with the garlic-and-parsley sauce in the pan, then slide the baked tomatoes on top of the pasta. Scatter the basil shreds all over, and toss everything together well, until the pasta is evenly dressed and the tomatoes are distributed throughout. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss once more.

Mound the pasta in a warmed serving bowl. Shred the ricotta all over the top of the pasta, and serve immediately.

DITALINI WITH B BROCCOLI DI R RAPE.

Ditalini con i Broccoli Serves 6 Serves 6 Small ditalini and well-cooked broccoli di rape broccoli di rape are all you need to make a delicious, warm, nouris.h.i.+ng, and comforting dish-moist and almost soupy in consistency. Of course, you need the basic seasoning of the Basilicata cook, too: olive oil, garlic, lots of peperoncino, and pecorino. If you feel the need to add more to this simple dish, slivers of chicken breast can cook right in the pot with the ditalini and will give a meaty substance. Another natural addition would be cubes of provola just before serving (see Wedding Soup, for tips on adding provola to a soupy dish). are all you need to make a delicious, warm, nouris.h.i.+ng, and comforting dish-moist and almost soupy in consistency. Of course, you need the basic seasoning of the Basilicata cook, too: olive oil, garlic, lots of peperoncino, and pecorino. If you feel the need to add more to this simple dish, slivers of chicken breast can cook right in the pot with the ditalini and will give a meaty substance. Another natural addition would be cubes of provola just before serving (see Wedding Soup, for tips on adding provola to a soupy dish).

- 1 pounds broccoli di rape broccoli di rape (a large bunch) (a large bunch) - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 1 pound ditalini ditalini - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To prepare the broccoli di rape: broccoli di rape: Separate the big stems of the bunch, breaking apart any that are attached, and trim them one at a time. First, slice off the bottom of the stem with a paring knife-just the dried part, where the stem was first cut, usually no more than an inch or so. With the blade of the knife, lift the outer skin of the stem, starting at your fresh bottom cut, and peel it toward the top in one long strip. Pull off the large, tough leaves attached to the lower stem, too. Peel away more strips of skin (and lower leaves) until only the pale inner stem remains, with all the tender leaves and Separate the big stems of the bunch, breaking apart any that are attached, and trim them one at a time. First, slice off the bottom of the stem with a paring knife-just the dried part, where the stem was first cut, usually no more than an inch or so. With the blade of the knife, lift the outer skin of the stem, starting at your fresh bottom cut, and peel it toward the top in one long strip. Pull off the large, tough leaves attached to the lower stem, too. Peel away more strips of skin (and lower leaves) until only the pale inner stem remains, with all the tender leaves and broccoli di rape broccoli di rape florets at the top. Trim and peel the other stems this way, then chop them all crosswise in short lengths, inch or so. florets at the top. Trim and peel the other stems this way, then chop them all crosswise in short lengths, inch or so.

Meanwhile, fill the large pot with salted water (at least 6 quarts water with 1 tablespoon salt), and heat it to the boil. When the broccoli di rape broccoli di rape is trimmed and chopped, begin cooking the pasta and sauce at the same time. is trimmed and chopped, begin cooking the pasta and sauce at the same time.

With the pasta water at a rolling boil, stir in the ditalini, return to the boil, and let it cook, stirring occasionally.