Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 14

Pour 6 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, set it over medium heat, scatter in the garlic slices, and cook for a couple of minutes, until sizzling and starting to color. Sprinkle the peperoncino onto the pan bottom, let it toast for a few seconds, then spill in all the broccoli di rape. broccoli di rape. Raise the heat, sprinkle the salt over it, spread, and stir the Raise the heat, sprinkle the salt over it, spread, and stir the broccoli di rape broccoli di rape in the pan and get it cooking. Ladle in about 3 cups of boiling pasta water, stir with the vegetables, and adjust the heat so the water is at a bubbling simmer. Cover the skillet, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the in the pan and get it cooking. Ladle in about 3 cups of boiling pasta water, stir with the vegetables, and adjust the heat so the water is at a bubbling simmer. Cover the skillet, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the broccoli di rape broccoli di rape is tender. is tender.

Uncover the pan, and immediately scoop the ditalini from the pasta pot with a spider or large strainer-they should be slightly undercooked-and spill them into the simmering sauce. Stir the pasta and broccoli di rape broccoli di rape together, drizzle on the remaining olive oil, stir again, and bring the sauce to a vigorous simmer. Cook for a few minutes, until the ditalini are perfectly together, drizzle on the remaining olive oil, stir again, and bring the sauce to a vigorous simmer. Cook for a few minutes, until the ditalini are perfectly al dente al dente and the sauce has thickened-it should have a soupy, but not watery, consistency. (If the ditalini need more cooking, keep the skillet covered; if they are almost and the sauce has thickened-it should have a soupy, but not watery, consistency. (If the ditalini need more cooking, keep the skillet covered; if they are almost al dente al dente when they go into the skillet, cook uncovered to reduce the sauce quickly.) when they go into the skillet, cook uncovered to reduce the sauce quickly.) When pasta and sauce are done, turn off the heat, sprinkle the cup of grated cheese on top, and stir it in. Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

RIGATONI WITH L LENTILS.

Rigatoni con Lenticchie Serves 6 Serves 6 Lentils and pasta are a traditional pairing in Italian cooking, and most of the regions in the southern part of the boot enjoy pasta con lenticchie pasta con lenticchie in some form, usually in soups. In this dish, which I was served in Basilicata, the lentils were cooked with other vegetables into a sauce that served as a delicious dressing for rigatoni. It was excellent that way. This sauce seems to me even more delightful as a dressing for whole-wheat or barley pasta. in some form, usually in soups. In this dish, which I was served in Basilicata, the lentils were cooked with other vegetables into a sauce that served as a delicious dressing for rigatoni. It was excellent that way. This sauce seems to me even more delightful as a dressing for whole-wheat or barley pasta.

- 1 cup small lentils lentils, preferably lenticchie di Castelluccio lenticchie di Castelluccio - cup carrot carrot cut in -inch dice cut in -inch dice - cup celery celery cut in -inch dice cut in -inch dice - 2 fresh bay leaves bay leaves - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pound rigatoni rigatoni or other pasta or other pasta - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, 3-to-4-quart capacity; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta Rinse the lentils, and put them in the saucepan with the diced carrot and celery, the bay leaves, and 3 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, cover the pan, and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle, steady simmer. Cook until the lentils are just tender, about 25 minutes (or longer, depending on size).

When the lentils are almost cooked, pour the olive oil into the large skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter in the garlic slices, and cook for a minute or two, until sizzling and starting to color; sprinkle the peperoncino onto the pan bottom to toast as the garlic sizzles. Pour in the crushed tomatoes, slosh out the can with a cup of cold water, pour that into the skillet, stir well, and bring to the boil. Simmer the sauce for 5 minutes or so, just to thicken up a bit.

When the lentils are tender, pour them into the skillet with the tomatoes, season with the salt, stir everything together, and heat the sauce to a bubbling simmer. Cook for 25 minutes or so, until the lentils are quite tender and the sauce has thickened to a consistency you like for dressing pasta. If you're going to cook the pasta right away, keep the sauce at a bare simmer. For later use, let it cool, then refrigerate. (If it thickens after cooling, loosen it with pasta water when you reheat it.) To cook the rigatoni or other pasta: Fill the big pot with salted water, and heat to a rolling boil. Stir in the pasta, and cook it until barely al dente. al dente. Scoop the rigatoni from the water, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet of sauce, simmering over low heat. Toss together for a minute or two, until the rigatoni is evenly dressed and perfectly Scoop the rigatoni from the water, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet of sauce, simmering over low heat. Toss together for a minute or two, until the rigatoni is evenly dressed and perfectly al dente. al dente.

Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the chopped parsley and a cup of grated cheese, and toss well. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, toss again, and serve immediately in warm bowls, with more cheese at the table.

FIERY M MACCHERONI.

Maccheroni al Fuoco Serves 6 Serves 6 Like many traditional Lucani dishes, this one is fas.h.i.+oned from the handful of ingredients one would find even in the most humble peasant pantry: dried peppers, yesterday's bread, a chunk of hard cheese, olive oil, and garlic. Minimal yet delicious.

The fire in fiery maccheroni maccheroni, of course, comes from dried diavolicchio diavolicchio, the hot chili peppers so beloved in Basilicata and other southern regions. Here, whole dried peperoncino pods are soaked until soft, then pureed into a pesto to dress the pasta. Toasted bread crumbs play an important role in this dish, too, when they're tossed in just before serving. They pick up the paste and garlicky olive oil, cling to the strands of pasta (preferably bucatini or perciatelli), and give crunchy, fiery sparks of flavor to every enjoyable bite.

- ounce whole dried Italian peperoncini dried Italian peperoncini - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to cover pepper pesto - cup coa.r.s.e bread crumbs bread crumbs from day-old country bread from day-old country bread - 1 pound bucatini bucatini (or perciatelli or thick spaghetti) (or perciatelli or thick spaghetti) - 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano) (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor or mini-chopper; a large pot, 8-quart capacity, for cooking the pasta; a baking sheet, a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To soften the peperoncini: Remove the stems, put them in a heatproof bowl or measuring cup, and pour over them 2 cups of boiling water. Let them soak for several hours (preferably overnight), until they are very pliable.

To make the pepper pesto: Drain the peperoncini (discard the soaking water), and put them in the bowl of the food processor with 6 tablespoons of the olive oil. Process to a smooth paste (though you may see a few seeds), sc.r.a.ping down the sides several times. If you are not using the pesto right away, pack it into a small container, smooth the top, and cover the pesto with a thin film of olive oil (a little will go a long way).

To toast the bread crumbs: Spread them on a rimmed baking sheet and place it in a 350 oven. Bake the crumbs for about 8 minutes, shaking the pan a couple of times, until they're crisp and golden.

When you are ready to cook the pasta, fill the large pot with water and 1 tablespoon salt, and heat to a rolling boil. Drop in the bucatini, stir to separate the strands, return the water to a boil, and let it cook, stirring occasionally.

As soon as the bucatini goes in the pot, pour the remaining olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Scatter in the sliced garlic, and cook for a minute or so, until it's sizzling, then sc.r.a.pe in the pepper pesto, spread it over the pan bottom, and let it toast for a minute. Ladle in about 2 cups of the boiling pasta water, sprinkle in the 1 teaspoon salt and chopped parsley, and stir well. Bring the water to a boil, and cook until half of it evaporates, about 3 minutes, then lower the heat to keep the sauce barely simmering.

When the bucatini is al dente al dente, lift it from the pot, let drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet. Toss pasta and sauce together until all the strands are evenly coated. Turn off the heat, sprinkle on the grated cheese, and toss; scatter the toasted bread crumbs over the top, and toss a final time. Serve immediately in warm bowls.

Senise peppers drying in the sun FISH S SOUP.

Zuppa di Pesce Serves 6 Serves 6 In the coastal areas of Basilicata, the varied catch of the day is the basis of this uncomplicated yet very tasty fish soup. Here I recommend using monkfish and grouper fillets, both with firm texture, so they won't fall apart in the zuppa. zuppa. Halibut is another good choice. Indeed, many varieties of fish and sh.e.l.lfish can be prepared this way, as long as you adjust the cooking time so the flesh remains intact and avoid overcooking. If using clams or mussels, use a wider pot, so the sh.e.l.ls do not break the meaty fish as they open. Halibut is another good choice. Indeed, many varieties of fish and sh.e.l.lfish can be prepared this way, as long as you adjust the cooking time so the flesh remains intact and avoid overcooking. If using clams or mussels, use a wider pot, so the sh.e.l.ls do not break the meaty fish as they open.

For a more substantial dish, place a slice of grilled or toasted country bread, or a few slices of spicy potato, Patate Lessate con Diavolicchio Patate Lessate con Diavolicchio, in each soup bowl before ladling in the zuppa di pesce. zuppa di pesce.

- 1 pound grouper grouper fillet, with skin fillet, with skin - 1 pound monkfish monkfish fillet, membrane removed fillet, membrane removed - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging the fish for dredging the fish - 2 cups water water - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 5 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 cups white wine white wine - 6 sprigs fresh thyme fresh thyme - 2 bunches scallions scallions, trimmed and chopped (about 2 cups) - 1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar white-wine vinegar - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, 10 inches wide, with a 3-to-4-quart capacity Cut the grouper and monkfish into six portions each (twelve pieces in all), and season on all sides with salt, using about teaspoon. Spread the flour on a plate, and dredge all the fish pieces, lightly coating all sides. Meanwhile, heat a couple of cups of water to the simmer in a small pan or kettle.

Pour the oil in the big saucepan, set it over medium-high heat, scatter in the garlic and peperoncino, and cook for a minute or so, until they're sizzling. Quickly lay the fish pieces in the pan in a single layer, shaking off any loose flour before they go in, and placing the grouper pieces skin side down. Leave as much s.p.a.ce as possible between the pieces. Without moving the pieces, fry the fish on the first side for about 2 minutes, until a light crust forms. Flip the pieces over, and fry the second side for 2 minutes or so, until lightly colored and crusted, then remove all the fish to a large plate.

Raise the heat, and pour in the white wine and 1 cups of the hot water. Drop in the thyme sprigs and the remaining salt, and bring the liquids to a boil. Let them bubble for 5 minutes or so, until the volume has reduced by about a third.

Lay the fish pieces back in the saucepan, toss in the scallions, and simmer for another 4 to 5 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Sprinkle on it the vinegar and chopped parsley; stir and swirl the pan to blend them with the zuppa. zuppa. Turn off the heat, and serve immediately in warm shallow soup bowls: lay a piece of grouper and one of monkfish in each bowl, and spoon over them some of the sauce. Turn off the heat, and serve immediately in warm shallow soup bowls: lay a piece of grouper and one of monkfish in each bowl, and spoon over them some of the sauce.

If you've toasted or grilled bread slices, or prepared patate lessate con diavolicchio patate lessate con diavolicchio to go with the soup, set a bread slice or cooked potato slices in each bowl first, then lay the fish pieces on top. to go with the soup, set a bread slice or cooked potato slices in each bowl first, then lay the fish pieces on top.

BACCALa L LUCANA-STYLE.

Baccala alla Lucana Serves 6 Serves 6 Baccala (salt cod) is cooked in many ways in every region of Italy-in the north, where I grew up, as well as in Basilicata, in the far south. Of course, the preparation styles vary immensely, and I like them all! (salt cod) is cooked in many ways in every region of Italy-in the north, where I grew up, as well as in Basilicata, in the far south. Of course, the preparation styles vary immensely, and I like them all!

This Baccala Baccala dish has the characteristic flavors of Basilicata, incorporating both hot peperoncino flakes and roasted peppers (jarred peppers are fine to use here). It is a good recipe to try if you've not cooked dish has the characteristic flavors of Basilicata, incorporating both hot peperoncino flakes and roasted peppers (jarred peppers are fine to use here). It is a good recipe to try if you've not cooked Baccala Baccala before, easy to make and with appealing, familiar flavors. before, easy to make and with appealing, familiar flavors.

- 2 pounds (or a bit more) boneless Baccala Baccala (salt cod fillet) (salt cod fillet) - 1 pounds (two 12-ounce jars) roasted red peppers roasted red peppers - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour for dredging for dredging - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup white wine white wine - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger To remove the salt from the salt cod, put the fish in a large, deep container that fits in your sink. Run fresh cold water into the container, filling it completely, so water is spilling over. Keep a slow, steady drip of fresh water to soak the Baccala Baccala for at least 12 hours, up to a couple of days. Occasionally dump out and refresh the water. To decide if for at least 12 hours, up to a couple of days. Occasionally dump out and refresh the water. To decide if Baccala Baccala has been soaked sufficiently, press a finger against it at a thick part, and touch it to the tongue. If it's palatably salty, it is ready to be cooked. Drain the has been soaked sufficiently, press a finger against it at a thick part, and touch it to the tongue. If it's palatably salty, it is ready to be cooked. Drain the baccalu baccalu, pat dry, and cook right away or store in the refrigerator, well wrapped, and cook within a day or so.

When you're ready to prepare the baccalu baccalu, drain the roasted red peppers and cut them into strips about 2 by 3 inches.

Cut the Baccala Baccala into six serving-sized pieces. Spread flour on a plate, and dredge the pieces, lightly coating both sides, and shaking off the excess. Pour 6 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Lay the codfish pieces in the pan in a single layer, and fry for about 5 minutes, until the underside is colored, then flip the pieces over. Scatter the sliced garlic and the peperoncino over the pan bottom, in between the fish pieces. Cook for several minutes, to brown the second side, then turn them all over again. into six serving-sized pieces. Spread flour on a plate, and dredge the pieces, lightly coating both sides, and shaking off the excess. Pour 6 tablespoons of the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Lay the codfish pieces in the pan in a single layer, and fry for about 5 minutes, until the underside is colored, then flip the pieces over. Scatter the sliced garlic and the peperoncino over the pan bottom, in between the fish pieces. Cook for several minutes, to brown the second side, then turn them all over again.

Nestle the roasted-pepper pieces in between the fish pieces, to start cooking on the pan bottom. Stir the wine, cup water, and the salt together in a spouted measuring cup, and pour this evenly over the fish pieces; drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over them as well. Shake the pan to distribute the liquids evenly throughout, and bring them to a simmer. Cook for about 8 minutes, or until the fish is done to your liking. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley, and serve immediately.

FARRO WITH P PORK R RAGu P POTENZA-STYLE.

Grano al Ragu alla Potentina Makes about 4 cups, serving 6 with farro Makes about 4 cups, serving 6 with farro This ragu ragu, in the tradition of Potenza (the capital of Basilicata), is a versatile sauce, equally delicious with cooked grains such as farro, wheat berries, or barley, or as a dressing for almost any pasta you choose. This recipe gives a combination I particularly love, with cooked farro stirred into the pot of ragu ragu just before serving. The nuttiness of the grain and the earthiness of the pork sauce are flavors that remind me of the bountiful Sunday and holiday dinners that are traditional in the lower part of the peninsula. And though it is a dish steeped in old traditions, it is healthful and economical, and will certainly s.h.i.+ne on today's table, for any occasion. just before serving. The nuttiness of the grain and the earthiness of the pork sauce are flavors that remind me of the bountiful Sunday and holiday dinners that are traditional in the lower part of the peninsula. And though it is a dish steeped in old traditions, it is healthful and economical, and will certainly s.h.i.+ne on today's table, for any occasion.

- FOR THE RAGu RAGu - 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder pork shoulder - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons chopped garlic garlic (about 5 cloves) (about 5 cloves) - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - cup white wine white wine - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano, crushed by hand - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - FOR THE FARRO AND SERVING - 1 pound farro farro - 1 fresh bay leaf bay leaf - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup freshly grated pecorino pecorino (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing (or half pecorino and half Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano), plus more for pa.s.sing RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, 5-quart capacity, with a cover; a heavy 3- or 4-quart saucepan For the ragu: ragu: Trim the fat from the exterior of the pork. Cut it into bite-sized morsels, about -inch cubes, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g more fat and bits of cartilage as you divide the meat. Pat the pieces dry with paper towels. Trim the fat from the exterior of the pork. Cut it into bite-sized morsels, about -inch cubes, tr.i.m.m.i.n.g more fat and bits of cartilage as you divide the meat. Pat the pieces dry with paper towels.

Pour the olive oil into the big pan, set it over medium heat, and toss in the pork. Spread the pieces in the pan, and season with the salt. Cook the pork slowly for 15 minutes or so, turning and moving the pieces occasionally as the meat releases its juices and they cook away.

When the pan is dry and the pork starts to sizzle and crackle, clear a hot spot on the bottom, and drop in the chopped garlic and peperoncino. Stir and toast them for a minute or so in the hot spot, until the garlic is fragrant and sizzling, then stir and toss with the meat cubes. Raise the heat a bit, pour in the white wine, stir, and bring to a boil. Let the wine bubble until it is nearly evaporated and the pork is sizzling again. Pour in the crushed tomatoes and a cup of water that has been sloshed around to rinse out the tomato can, grate on the fresh nutmeg, and stir.

Cover the pan, and heat the tomatoes to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain a steady, gentle perking. Cook for about 1 hours, until the pork is tender all the way through and falls apart under gentle pressure, and the sauce has thickened. If the liquid is still thin toward the end of the cooking time, set the cover ajar, and raise the heat a bit to reduce it rapidly.

Meanwhile, prepare the farro, first rinsing it well and draining it in a sieve. Put it in the smaller saucepan with 6 cups cold water, the bay leaf, salt, and olive oil. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, then set the cover ajar, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the grains are cooked through but still al dente. al dente. Turn off the heat, pour off excess liquid, and keep the farro warm until the Turn off the heat, pour off excess liquid, and keep the farro warm until the ragu ragu is done. is done.

To finish the dish: Have the ragu ragu simmering and stir in the farro thoroughly. Cook together for a minute, so the grain is very hot. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese on top, and stir in. Spoon the dressed farro into warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more grated cheese at the table. simmering and stir in the farro thoroughly. Cook together for a minute, so the grain is very hot. Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese on top, and stir in. Spoon the dressed farro into warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more grated cheese at the table.

TORTA WITH P PRUNES.

Torta alla Prugne A 9-inch cake, serving 8 or more A 9-inch cake, serving 8 or more Italians love prugne prugne, the name for both fresh and dried plums (which we call prunes). Italy is one of Europe's largest plum-producers, and the fresh fruit is a favorite in season. But dried plums, prugne secche prugne secche, are in such demand year-round-for snacking, cooking, and baking-that today Italy ranks as one of the world's biggest importers of prunes (many tons of them grown in California!).

I, too, love prugne secche prugne secche, particularly in crostatas (tarts) and torte torte such as this cake, which I found in Basilicata. Morsels of prune, poached in a wine syrup, dot the golden, b.u.t.tery cake, and each bite bursts with their concentrated essence of fruit flavor. It's a great treat for the holidays, or on any winter's day-a delicious reminder of the sweet taste of summer. such as this cake, which I found in Basilicata. Morsels of prune, poached in a wine syrup, dot the golden, b.u.t.tery cake, and each bite bursts with their concentrated essence of fruit flavor. It's a great treat for the holidays, or on any winter's day-a delicious reminder of the sweet taste of summer.

- 1 cups (about 7 ounces) pitted prunes prunes (preferably soft, not old and dry) (preferably soft, not old and dry) - 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar sugar - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - 1 cup red wine red wine - 12 tablespoons (1 sticks) b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, at room temperature - 1 tablespoon fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 1 cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 1 teaspoon baking powder baking powder - teaspoon baking soda baking soda - 4 large eggs eggs, separated - teaspoon kosher salt RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 9-inch springform pan; standing electric mixer with paddle and whisk attachments (or a hand whisk) To poach the prunes: Cut them into bite-sized morsels. Put them in a small saucepan with cup of the sugar, the lemon zest, and the wine. Set the pan over medium-low heat, and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar. Let the syrup bubble gently and steadily for 15 minutes or so, reducing slowly, until it has thickened and barely covers the s.h.i.+ny poached prunes. Leave the prunes in the syrup to cool completely, then drain through a sieve, collecting and saving the remaining syrup, about cup. (You can poach the prunes hours or a day ahead of time and leave them soaking in the syrup. Drain well before a.s.sembling the cake.) To make the cake: Arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350. Secure the bottom disk in the springform, and grease the inside surfaces with a tablespoon of the soft b.u.t.ter. Stir the bread crumbs and a tablespoon of sugar together. Coat the b.u.t.tered bottom and sides of the cake pan completely with the crumb mixture, and shake out any loose crumbs.

Sift together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda.

Put the remaining sugar and b.u.t.ter in the mixer bowl and, using the paddle attachment, cream together for several minutes on high speed, sc.r.a.ping down the bowl several times, until light and smooth.

Beat in the egg yolks one at a time; sc.r.a.pe down the bowl, and fluff up the batter on high speed after incorporating each yolk. On low speed, blend in the dry ingredients, mixing just until completely moistened and incorporated.

In a clean bowl, whip the egg whites with the salt to firm peaks, using the whisk attachment or a hand whisk. Stir in a third of the whites to lighten the cake batter, then gently fold in the remainder. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared pan, and spread it to fill the springform in a flat, even layer.

Scatter the drained prune pieces all over the top of the batter, s.p.a.ced evenly, covering the whole cake. Put the pan in the oven, and bake for about 45 minutes (rotating it after 25 minutes), as the batter rises around the prune pieces. When the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, remove the cake to a wire cooling rack. Drizzle the remaining wine syrup all over the top of the warm cake, and let it cool for hour or so before loosening and removing the side ring.

Serve the torta torta slightly warm or at room temperature, cut in wedges-plain or topped with whipped cream. slightly warm or at room temperature, cut in wedges-plain or topped with whipped cream.

A local man comes home from shopping near Monte Cotugno

Basilicata, known locally as Lucania, hits the sea at the arch of the boot of Italy. If you've seen The Pa.s.sion of the Christ The Pa.s.sion of the Christ, which was filmed in and around the city of MATERA MATERA, you will recognize the territory. The porous tufa tufa stone of Matera was excavated for centuries, and thousands of cave dwellings were dug into the mount, like the honeycombs of a beehive. Chapels and even some s.p.a.cious churches were created this way by the monks. Today, the stone of Matera was excavated for centuries, and thousands of cave dwellings were dug into the mount, like the honeycombs of a beehive. Chapels and even some s.p.a.cious churches were created this way by the monks. Today, the sa.s.si sa.s.si appear as if from a distant past. Elaborate fresco cycles decorate some of the religious caves, and the largest cave, Santa Maria della Valle, even has a garden. The cave dwellings were inhabited as late as the early 1950s, after which the government ruled it illegal. appear as if from a distant past. Elaborate fresco cycles decorate some of the religious caves, and the largest cave, Santa Maria della Valle, even has a garden. The cave dwellings were inhabited as late as the early 1950s, after which the government ruled it illegal.Melfi is famous for its chestnuts, but it also has one of the most beautiful Norman castles. Set apart on a large expanse of land, atop a gently sloping hill, the castle is enormous in size, yet simple in design and decoration. As austere as the outside is, the interior reflects the sumptuous lifestyle of the n.o.bles who lived there for centuries after its original construction in the eleventh century. The Rapolla sarcophagus ( is famous for its chestnuts, but it also has one of the most beautiful Norman castles. Set apart on a large expanse of land, atop a gently sloping hill, the castle is enormous in size, yet simple in design and decoration. As austere as the outside is, the interior reflects the sumptuous lifestyle of the n.o.bles who lived there for centuries after its original construction in the eleventh century. The Rapolla sarcophagus (A.D. 165), housed inside the castle, is one of the most beautiful Roman sarcophagi I have ever seen. The carving is sublime, and, judging by the beautiful young woman sculpted on the top, the deceased must have been gorgeous. 165), housed inside the castle, is one of the most beautiful Roman sarcophagi I have ever seen. The carving is sublime, and, judging by the beautiful young woman sculpted on the top, the deceased must have been gorgeous.Lagopesole Castle still retains the spirit of Frederick II. Sitting high on a hill, this is the last castle he built (mid-thirteenth century), and he used it for one of his favorite pastimes, hunting. The sandy-colored stone with which the castle was built appears to me at the same time warm and stark in the blazing sun of the region. The spirts of Manfredi and Elena, fourteenth-century inhabitants of the castle, are said still to occupy it. The chapel inside, with some fresco remains lingering on the walls, is colossal and beautiful in its austerity. Castle still retains the spirit of Frederick II. Sitting high on a hill, this is the last castle he built (mid-thirteenth century), and he used it for one of his favorite pastimes, hunting. The sandy-colored stone with which the castle was built appears to me at the same time warm and stark in the blazing sun of the region. The spirts of Manfredi and Elena, fourteenth-century inhabitants of the castle, are said still to occupy it. The chapel inside, with some fresco remains lingering on the walls, is colossal and beautiful in its austerity.Venosa Castle was built during the Angevin period (fifteenth century). Surrounded by a moat and with a drawbridge, this is a fun castle to take the kids to. Mine loved looking at the writings on the walls, by prisoners who were held way up in the towers of the castle. In Venosa, Horace's birthplace, I enjoy the eerie feeling I get at the unfinished church of Santa Trinita, which is behind the (completed) abbey church. At first it appears as if Santa Trinita has been destroyed, but really it was never finished. The twelfth-century monks began this huge construction borrowing stone from the nearby Roman amphitheater. Castle was built during the Angevin period (fifteenth century). Surrounded by a moat and with a drawbridge, this is a fun castle to take the kids to. Mine loved looking at the writings on the walls, by prisoners who were held way up in the towers of the castle. In Venosa, Horace's birthplace, I enjoy the eerie feeling I get at the unfinished church of Santa Trinita, which is behind the (completed) abbey church. At first it appears as if Santa Trinita has been destroyed, but really it was never finished. The twelfth-century monks began this huge construction borrowing stone from the nearby Roman amphitheater.The hilltop town of Maratea Maratea is a jewel that maintains its local flavor. It overlooks the glimmering blue sea below, and the climb to get down to its beaches is well worth the effort. The small port below reminds me of Portofino, except that it isn't filled with tourists. is a jewel that maintains its local flavor. It overlooks the glimmering blue sea below, and the climb to get down to its beaches is well worth the effort. The small port below reminds me of Portofino, except that it isn't filled with tourists.Metaponto has some impressive Roman temple remains, in particular the Temple of Hera. One of the most important cities in Magna Graecia, Metaponto played a crucial role when allied with Hannibal against Rome. There are ruins of a Greek amphitheater, and nearby some of Italy's best white sand beaches. If you are really interested in archaeology, see the sites and remains of the Siris and Heraclea colonies. Siris is well known for being founded by the Trojans.-T has some impressive Roman temple remains, in particular the Temple of Hera. One of the most important cities in Magna Graecia, Metaponto played a crucial role when allied with Hannibal against Rome. There are ruins of a Greek amphitheater, and nearby some of Italy's best white sand beaches. If you are really interested in archaeology, see the sites and remains of the Siris and Heraclea colonies. Siris is well known for being founded by the Trojans.-TANYALeft: Frescoes from the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Tursi; right: the Monastery and Church of Santa Maria d'Orsoleo (seen through the arch)

This is a strip of beautiful coast between Maratea and Diamante.

CALABRIA IS IN THE MOST SOUTHERN TIP OF THE BOOT, surrounded by five hundred miles of coastline with beautiful turquoise water and deserted pebble beaches. Inland, the terrain is rugged, with mountains that stretch like tense fingers to the sh.o.r.e.

The cuisine of Calabria is not an expansive cuisine; it is, in the true sense of the word, a simple cuisine, reflecting the place. The basic ingredients are olive oil, onions, peperoncini, tomatoes, pork, fish, caciocavallo cheese, durum-wheat pasta, and bread.

Some of the unique regional products that flavor this cuisine are: the onion from Tropea, a purple torpedo-looking sweet onion that is much used in Calabria and sought after in the world-so much so that the Queen of England has her regular allocation delivered to the castle kitchen. And then there are little red hornlike Aspic peppers that in late summer hang, tied like cordons of coral, off balconies, walls, and cantinas. They are left to dry anywhere with direct sunlight and some ventilation, then used in cooking the rest of the year. They can be eaten whole, fried until crisp, crushed, powdered, or made into paste with olive oil. Every household seems to have one or more of these Ferrari-red garlands hanging somewhere.

So much is the peperoncino valued that there is a yearly sagra sagra, or festival, in honor of it. There is as well the Accademia del Peperoncino, which has its office in Diamante. On my last visit, looking for information, I came to the accademia accademia to find a busy team of officeworkers scurrying around, because that night the to find a busy team of officeworkers scurrying around, because that night the sagra sagra was taking place, and four thousand people were expected-Mario and I among them. was taking place, and four thousand people were expected-Mario and I among them.

I love peperoncino and use it a lot in my cooking, but being on location helped me realize how much of a tradition and a way of life this little pepper represents to the people of Calabria and their cuisine. Brought here by the Spaniards after they discovered the New World, chili peppers found their ideal habitat in Calabria. In the past century, over a million people left Calabria to seek a better life in other parts of Italy as well as abroad, especially in the United States. Ironically, they took with them their favorite food, crushed peperoncino, now found on every pizzeria counter across America.

I first discovered Calabria in 2006, when Mario and I decided to drive around the whole perimeter of the region, across its central mountains, and over one of its highest peaks, the Aspromonte.

Calabria is a place in a precarious position. It is a dead end, unless you are heading to Sicily. But in order to reach Sicily, you have to get to Reggio Calabria, the capital city, and then take a ferry over the Strait of Messina. Thus it's much easier to fly from Rome to Palermo and bypa.s.s Calabria altogether. Before this recent trip, the closest I got to Calabria was in 1995. I went to Sicily with a group of friends, hoping to stop off in Calabria en route. We sailed the Sea Cloud Sea Cloud, a magnificent three-masted sailboat built in 1931 for E. F. Hutton and his wife, Marjorie Merriweather Post. From southern Sicily we headed up toward the Strait of Messina. There is a strong current in these waters most of the time, but on that faraway day the seas seemed to be angry. And although the sailing was exhilarating, we never did dock in Reggio Calabria as we had planned. This, I reminded myself, is the strait about which Ulysses had been warned. The two monsters Scylla and Charybdis awaited, one on each side: Scylla, the monster with six heads on the Calabrian coast, and Charybdis, across the gulf, on the Sicilian coast, swallowing up any s.h.i.+p coming close to the whirlpools of the changing tides. Am I grateful we got away!

But this time, with Mario, I made it to Calabria. We went by land, leaving the autostrada autostrada from Naples to take a side road down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. There we reached Maratea, a beautiful seaside city where we had a great lunch in a small trattoria, consisting of fried olives, Calabrese Salad- from Naples to take a side road down to the Tyrrhenian Sea. There we reached Maratea, a beautiful seaside city where we had a great lunch in a small trattoria, consisting of fried olives, Calabrese Salad-Insalata alla Calabrese, and Spicy Calamari-Calamari Piccanti.

The intensity of the flavors was evident in every bite, reminding me a lot of Sicilian food but somehow more naive and rustic, and certainly more fiery. The evening we spent down the coast in Diamante, where the Sagra del Peperoncino was alive with music. The tents were festooned with wreaths of peperoncino, and tables were full of pyramids of piled-up gla.s.s jars filled with the red peperoncino in oil, in vinegar, a paste, dry powder-every way one can imagine. The grounds looked like Christmas, even though it was midsummer. Smells of sausages, lamb, baked pasta wafted through the air, and we made sure we had some of each. I particularly remember the Stuffed Baked Pasta-Schiaffettoni, Shepherd's Rigatoni-Rigatoni alla Pastora, and Steamed Swordfish Bagnara-Style-Pesce Spada all'Uso di Bagnara.

Next stop was Tropea, where I went looking for La Rosa di Tropea, the famous red onion from Tropea. But I also found a stupendous turquoise beach, which, I later discovered, was rated in the Sunday New York Times New York Times in January 2007 as one of the world's best beaches. The city itself is perched on a high promontory, with a skyline of Renaissance churches, and sandstone palazzos. The sanctuary of Santa Maria dell'Isola stands at the highest point on an isolated rock, with only a thread of sandy beach connecting it to the mainland, as if guarding Tropea. in January 2007 as one of the world's best beaches. The city itself is perched on a high promontory, with a skyline of Renaissance churches, and sandstone palazzos. The sanctuary of Santa Maria dell'Isola stands at the highest point on an isolated rock, with only a thread of sandy beach connecting it to the mainland, as if guarding Tropea.

The red torpedo onions have been growing in this region since the Greeks occupied it. The sandy soil and hot climate in "La Costa degli Dei"-the "Coast of the G.o.ds," as this strip of land is called-is ideal for growing these onions. The Tropea onion is synonymous with the Calabrian cuisine from this area. It is sweet and quite digestible, thanks to such sugars as glucose, fructose, and saccharose. It is claimed to have antiseptic properties as well, but most of all it tastes great, whether raw, fried, stuffed, or in pastas and soups such as Onion Soup-Zuppa di Cipolla. It also features in Eggplant, Onions, and Potatoes-Patate, Cipolle e Melanzane.

In Tropea we met up with my friend Raffaele La Gamba, who lives in Brooklyn but hails from this part of Calabria. Every holiday when we meet in New York, on his table there must be flavorful 'nduja 'nduja, the spiciest dip-spread-sauce I ever tasted, and I mean ever.

So I wanted to know where and how this spreadable fiery salami is made. We headed out to Spilinga, a small town that was the 'nduja 'nduja epicenter, and went to visit Luigi Caccamo, the epicenter, and went to visit Luigi Caccamo, the 'nduja 'nduja artisan. artisan. 'Nduja 'Nduja is made from the head tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the pig, as well as some fatback, skin, belly fat, and other organ tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. It is all minced and then tossed with almost an equal amount of fiery peperoncino. After resting for a few days, the mixture is stuffed into the large intestines of the pig. It is tied up like salami and hung in a controlled-temperature setting to mature. We tasted it as a spread, and slightly warmed as a dip on crusty bread, but we also had a firecracker pasta with is made from the head tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of the pig, as well as some fatback, skin, belly fat, and other organ tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. It is all minced and then tossed with almost an equal amount of fiery peperoncino. After resting for a few days, the mixture is stuffed into the large intestines of the pig. It is tied up like salami and hung in a controlled-temperature setting to mature. We tasted it as a spread, and slightly warmed as a dip on crusty bread, but we also had a firecracker pasta with 'nduja 'nduja in the tomato sauce. I bade Raffaele a fiery goodbye, to enjoy the rest of his vacation. in the tomato sauce. I bade Raffaele a fiery goodbye, to enjoy the rest of his vacation.

Next, we visited the town of Bagnara, between Tropea and Scilla, nestled in a sickle-shaped bay. Down a high promontory, the winding road led us to this fishermen's town of little houses that seemed to be clinging to the rocks. Here they have fished swordfish since the days of the Greeks, and they still do it the same way today, harpooning the fish by hand.

But swordfish is not the only good thing in Bagnara. Italians travel from afar to enjoy the notorious ice cream and torrone of Bagnara. And there are other surprise flavors and sensations to be found in this rugged land. One unique flavor that I adore, especially in ice cream, is bergamot-a fruit of the citrus family, pear-shaped, yellow in color, and intense in aroma. Bergamots are cultivated only in a narrow strip of the Calabrian coast extending for about sixty miles between the Tyrrhenian and the Ionian Seas. The perfumed lemony essence of this fruit is used in candy and desserts, as well as in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Ever on the lookout for recipes I could bring home, we stopped at Bovalino Marina, where a friend of Mario treated us to an excellent meal. On their terrace, above orchards of olive trees overlooking the Ionian Sea, we enjoyed Orecchiette with Favas and Cherry Tomatoes-Orecchiette con Fave e Pomodorini, Pork Chops Shepherd-Style-Maiale all'Uso dei Pastori, and finished with some Almond Biscottini-Biscottini alle Mandorle, and Stuffed Figs Sibari-Style-Fichi Ripieni alla Sibarita We continued our search, zigzagging past Catanzaro, up the Silagian Mountains, where we had, in the most simple setting, some of the most intense and flavorful foods for lunch. Baked Cavatappi in Tomato Sauce-Cavatappi al Forno, Chicken Catanzaro-Style-Pollo alla Catanzarese, and Sesame Candy-Dolcetto di Sesamo were on the menu, and we washed it all down with Cir, claimed to be one of the best as well as the oldest wine in Calabria. were on the menu, and we washed it all down with Cir, claimed to be one of the best as well as the oldest wine in Calabria.

Tropea onions piled high at the market CALABRESE S SALAD.

Insalata alla Calabrese Serves 6 Serves 6 Peppers play a central role in this Calabrian version of potato salad. Fresh green peppers are fried as a main salad ingredient; and peperoncino, dried crushed red-pepper flakes, serves as an essential seasoning.

The peppers you want for this are the slender, long ones with sweet, tender flesh, which I have always just called "Italian frying peppers." These days, with the greater popularity of peppers and chilis here in America, markets sell a number of varieties that are suitable for frying, such as banana peppers, wax peppers, Hungarian peppers, and Cubanelle peppers.

In addition to this delicious salad with potatoes, you'll find many wonderful uses for fresh peppers, fried Italian-style. Season them with olive oil and slices of garlic, let them marinate, and enjoy them as part of an antipasto or layered in a sandwich. Or sprinkle a little wine vinegar on the peppers (with the olive oil and garlic) for a condiment-like salad that is just perfect with grilled fish or chicken.

- 1 pound russet potatoes russet potatoes - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 Italian frying peppers Italian frying peppers (also called banana peppers and Cubanelles), preferably 5 inches or longer (also called banana peppers and Cubanelles), preferably 5 inches or longer - 12 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled cloves, peeled - 1 small red onion red onion, halved and very thinly sliced - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A bowl for mixing and serving the salad; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider Put the potatoes in a pot with water to cover them by about 2 inches, and heat to a steady boil. Cook just until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork or sharp knife blade (don't let them get mushy), then drain and cool them. Peel off the skins, cut the potatoes crosswise into round slices about inch thick, and put them in the salad bowl.

Pour cup of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, put the whole peppers in it and cook for a couple of minutes, until they're sizzling and starting to color on one side, then turn them and brown the other side. Keep turning and moving the peppers around so they cook and color evenly.

After 5 minutes, when the peppers have been turned a couple of times and are sizzling nicely, scatter the garlic cloves in between them. Now lay another, smaller skillet or a heavy pot cover on top of the peppers, and press down for more thorough browning. Cook for another 5 minutes or more, rotating the peppers a couple of times, until they are browned and blistered on all surfaces. Remove from the heat, and let the peppers cool for a few minutes, with the weight still in place.

When the peppers can be handled, cut off the stems, peel off the skin, slice them open, and sc.r.a.pe out the seeds. Slice them lengthwise in strips about 1 inch wide; if the peppers were very long, cut the strips crosswise into nice lengths for eating, 3 inches or so.

a.s.semble and dress the salad while the pepper strips are still warm (though it is also good at room temperature). Put the pepper pieces and the onion slices in the bowl with the potatoes, and sprinkle the salt and peperoncino over them. Drizzle the remaining cup olive oil and the vinegar on the vegetables, and toss well. Serve right away.

ONION S SOUP.

Zuppa di Cipolla Serves 6 Serves 6 In the introduction to this chapter, I tell about the extraordinary red onion from Tropea. Its healing qualities have been promoted since Roman times. And though not widely publicized, the wine-red onion is particularly valued by the men of the coast for its capacity to enhance a certain romantic vigor-a legend now confirmed by recent scientific research, we were told, that found la cipolla rossa di Tropea la cipolla rossa di Tropea naturally rich with the same compound as delivered by the drug v.i.a.g.r.a! naturally rich with the same compound as delivered by the drug v.i.a.g.r.a!

I can't comment on that, but I can tell you with certainty that one can only love any dish featuring the Tropea onion, whether raw or cooked. This wonderful soup, with lots of onions and good San Marzano tomatoes, is the one that we sampled in Calabria and that I have since re-created at home. Made with American-grown sweet onions, it is almost as good as the original version. It can be a meal in itself, or a very special opening course.

- cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 2 pounds Tropea or other sweet onions Tropea or other sweet onions, halved, thinly sliced crosswise - 1 tablespoon kosher salt kosher salt - 3 cups (one 28-ounce can) Italian plum tomatoes plum tomatoes, preferably San Marzano - 4 cups water - 6 thick slices country bread country bread - pound chunk of provola provola or or provolone provolone - cup grated pecorino pecorino, or to taste RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy saucepan, such as an enameled cast-iron French oven, 4-to-5-quart capacity, with a cover Pour the olive oil into the pot, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the sliced garlic. Let the garlic sizzle for a minute, then fill the pan with the onion slices, and sprinkle the salt over them. Stir the onions so they're all coated with oil. Cook them slowly, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes or so, until they are reduced in volume and translucent, lightly colored but not browned.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes and water (some of which you've used to slosh out the tomato container). Stir in with the onions, cover the pan, bring to a boil, then adjust the heat to keep the soup simmering gently. Cook covered for 45 minutes (the onions should be very tender). Uncover and cook another 15 minutes, or until the soup has reduced by about a quarter.

When ready to serve, toast or grill the bread slices. Cut the provola into six or more slices. Put a slice of hot bread in the bottom of each of six warm soup bowls, and lay a slice of the cheese on top. With a big slotted spoon, scoop up the onions and tomatoes from the soup, and drop portions over the bread and cheese in each bowl. Finally, ladle in hot broth to fill the bowls, sprinkle grated pecorino over each, and serve immediately.

EGGPLANT, ONIONS & P & POTATOES.

Patate, Cipolle e Melanzane Serves 6 Serves 6 When summer is in full swing and there are mounds of beautiful purple eggplants available, here's a wonderfully refres.h.i.+ng salad you can make. Since the eggplant is poached rather than fried, it is a light and healthful dish. The flavors and textures of the eggplant, onion, and potato are harmonious, but you can use fewer or no potatoes and more eggplant.

- 2 small firm eggplants eggplants (about 1 pound total) (about 1 pound total) - 1 pound small red onions red onions - 1 pound russet potatoes russet potatoes - 1 cups plus 2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 tablespoon packed fresh mint fresh mint leaves, shredded leaves, shredded - teaspoon dried oregano dried oregano RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A wide, shallow saucepan or high-sided saute pan, 4-quart capacity, for poaching the eggplant and onions; a large bowl for mixing and serving the salad Trim the ends from the eggplants, and shave off some lengthwise strips of the skin with a vegetable peeler, leaving some strips on, creating a striped appearance. Slice the eggplants lengthwise into 6 or more long wedges, about 1 inch thick. Peel the red onions, and slice them lengthwise into quarter-round wedges, not not cutting at the root; you want the wedges attached. cutting at the root; you want the wedges attached.

To poach the eggplants and onions: Put 1 cups of the vinegar and 2 quarts cold water in the shallow saucepan, and heat to a boil. Drop in the eggplant wedges and the split-open onions, cover the pan, and return to a boil. Set the cover ajar, and adjust the heat to maintain a steady gentle boil. Cook about 30 minutes, occasionally tumbling the vegetables over to poach evenly, until quite soft and tender.

Meanwhile, put the potatoes in another pot, with water to cover them by about 2 inches, and cook just until the potatoes are easily pierced with a fork (don't let them get mushy). Drain the potatoes, and let them cool briefly. Peel off the skins, and cut them in half lengthwise, then crosswise into -inch-thick half-rounds. Put the potato pieces in the salad bowl, and cover to keep them warm.

When the eggplant and onions are fully cooked, gently lift them out of the poaching liquid with a spider or strainer, and lay them out on a tray or baking sheet in one layer. While the eggplant is still warm, scoop out the central clumps of seeds from the wedges, then cut them crosswise into 2-inch chunks. Separate the onion wedges, and then the layers. Put all the vegetable pieces-they should still be warm to the touch-in the bowl with the potatoes.

To dress the salad: Drizzle the olive oil and remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar over the salad, sprinkle the salt on it, scatter in the shredded mint, and crumble the dried oregano over all. Gently toss the vegetable pieces to coat them all with dressing without breaking them apart. Serve immediately.

ORECCHIETTE WITH F FAVAS & C & CHERRY T TOMATOES.

Orecchiette con Fave e Pomodorini Serves 6 Serves 6 A technique I have always liked, when preparing vegetables for a pasta dish, is to toss them in the pot with the pasta as it boils. Depending on which takes longer, I put the vegetable in first and then add the pasta, or vice versa. Either way, I believe this maximizes the flavor and nutritional value of the vegetables, and I know the pasta absorbs some of the vegetable flavor as they cook in the same water.

I was glad to see this technique used frequently in preparing pasta dishes in Calabria, like this one, where orecchiette and arugula are cooked in the pot together before they are tossed with the other dressing vegetables, favas, and cherry tomatoes. Great to make in spring when fresh favas are in the market.

- 3 pounds fresh fava-bean pods fresh fava-bean pods, sh.e.l.led - cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 small onion onion, thinly sliced - 1 pint cherry tomatoes cherry tomatoes, halved - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - 1 pound orecchiette orecchiette - 1 pound arugula arugula leaves, washed and trimmed: young leaves left whole, larger leaves torn into pieces leaves, washed and trimmed: young leaves left whole, larger leaves torn into pieces - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for pa.s.sing at the table RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A medium saucepan for blanching the favas; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large pot for cooking the pasta In the medium saucepan, bring about 4 quarts of salted water to boil, drop in the sh.e.l.led favas, and blanch about 2 minutes, until they turn bright green. Drain the beans, and drop them right away into a large bowl of ice water. When chilled, drain the favas again; peel off the inner skins and discard. You should have about 2 cups peeled favas.

Pour cup of the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Scatter the favas and sliced onion in the pan, stir, and cook until the onion is translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Drop the cherry tomatoes into the skillet, and season with the salt. Cook until the cherry tomatoes release their juices and begin to break down, about 5 minutes; keep the sauce warm, but not cooking, until the pasta is dressed.