Lidia Cooks From The Heart Of Italy Part 15

Meanwhile, fill the pasta pot with salted water, and heat to a rolling boil. Drop in the orecchiette, stir, and return to the boil. Cook the pasta until it's approximately 5 minutes from being done (according to the cooking time on the package), then stir the arugula into the pot.

Cook the pasta and arugula together for another 4 minutes or so, until the orecchiette is al dente al dente, then lift both from the pot with a large strainer (or empty the pot into a colander if you prefer), and drop the pasta and arugula into the skillet of sauce. Toss everything together for a minute or two, over low heat, then turn off the heat, drizzle on the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and toss well. Sprinkle the grated cheese on top, and toss again. Heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately, with more cheese at the table.

SHEPHERD'S R RIGATONI Rigatoni alla Pastora Serves 6 Serves 6 As the name of this traditional dish suggests, it is made from the few ingredients available to a shepherd in remote pastures. Yet, in my experience, some of the best pasta sauces in Italy come from such a limited larder of ingredients. A fine example is this dressing for rigatoni, created with a bit of sausage, dried grating cheese, fresh ricotta, peperoncino, and fresh basil. And if you toss in other fresh herbs in season, your rigatoni alla pastora rigatoni alla pastora will have a slightly different taste each time. will have a slightly different taste each time.

- 1 pound sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds), removed from casings (without fennel seeds), removed from casings - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 1 pound rigatoni rigatoni - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 cups fresh whole-milk ricotta fresh whole-milk ricotta, drained (about 1 pound) - cup grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for the table - cup loosely packed fresh basil fresh basil leaves, shredded leaves, shredded RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot for cooking the pasta; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Fill the pasta pot with salted water, and heat to a rolling boil.

For the sauce, crumble the sausage meat in a bowl, breaking it into small clumps with your fingers. Pour the olive oil into the skillet, and set it over medium-high heat. Sprinkle in the peperoncino, let it toast for a few seconds, then scatter the crumbled sausage in the pan. Cook the sausage, stirring and breaking up any clumps, for 10 minutes or so, as the meat juices are released and cook away, until it is all well browned and crispy.

Meanwhile, when the sausage is sizzling, drop the rigatoni into the boiling pasta water; stir, and cook at the boil. When the sausage is browned and crisp, ladle about cup of the pasta cooking water into the skillet, and deglaze the pan bottom, sc.r.a.ping up the browned bits. Season the sausage meat with the salt, and stir with the bit of moisture in the pan.

When the pasta is al dente al dente, lift it from the pot, drain briefly, and drop it into the skillet. Toss the rigatoni and sausage together, then turn off the heat, and stir in the ricotta and grated cheese. Scatter the basil on top, and toss well to dress the pasta evenly. Heap the rigatoni in warm bowls, and serve immediately.

BAKED C CAVATAPPI IN T TOMATO S SAUCE.

Cavatappi al Forno Serves 6 Serves 6 I love baked pastas of all kinds (as you probably know), as long as the gratinato gratinato, the cheese topping, is properly applied with a light touch, and baked sufficiently, so the cheese is deeply colored, melted, and perfectly crisp at the same time. This Calabrian baked cavatappi has two touches I particularly appreciate: a layer of sliced hard-cooked eggs inside (lending more taste and more protein), and an extra dimension of crunch from bread crumbs on top. You can enhance many other baked pasta recipes this way.

- Kosher salt for the pasta pot for the pasta pot - 1 pound cavatappi cavatappi or or penne penne - 4 cups Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce - 1 cup freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 tablespoons soft b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - 6 hard-cooked eggs eggs, peeled, sliced in -inch rounds - 1 pound shredded provola provola or or provolone provolone, preferably imported from Italy - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A large pot for cooking the pasta; a 4-quart rectangular baking dish or oval gratin dish Fill the pasta pot with salted water (at least 1 tablespoon salt), and heat to a rolling boil. Stir in the cavatappi, and cook at the boil until al dente al dente (about 2 minutes less than the package directions). Drain the pasta well in a colander, and put it in a big bowl. Pour in 2 cups of the tomato sauce, sprinkle over it cup of the grated (about 2 minutes less than the package directions). Drain the pasta well in a colander, and put it in a big bowl. Pour in 2 cups of the tomato sauce, sprinkle over it cup of the grated grana grana, and toss well, to dress all the cavatappi evenly.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400; brush the baking dish with the b.u.t.ter. Spill in half of the dressed pasta, spreading it out to fill the pan bottom in an even layer, and arrange the cooked egg slices on top. Scatter half the shredded provola evenly over the eggs, then spread a cup of tomato sauce on top of the cheese. Next, arrange all the remaining pasta in a flat, even layer, then spoon cup tomato sauce on top. Sprinkle the remaining grated grana grana and the rest of the provola over the pasta; scatter the bread crumbs over all, and drizzle the last bit of tomato sauce on the top. and the rest of the provola over the pasta; scatter the bread crumbs over all, and drizzle the last bit of tomato sauce on the top.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the crumb topping and pressing it against the sides. Set the dish in the oven, and bake for 35 minutes, then remove the foil, and bake another 15 minutes or so, until the top is nicely browned and crusty. Serve hot!

STUFFED B BAKED P PASTA.

Schiaffettoni Serves 6 Serves 6 In Calabria, as in other regions of southern Italy, there's a general preference for dried pasta, even for baked stuffed pastas. Usually, stuffed pastas like canneloni or manicotti are formed from flat pieces of fresh pasta, topped with filling, and then rolled up to make the familiar tube shape. But with this recipe, you stuff pasta for baking as they do it in Calabria, using the dried tubular pasta called paccheri; paccheri; first cook them just to soften, then spoon in a savory sausage-and-ricotta filling. Fill a big pan with the stuffed first cook them just to soften, then spoon in a savory sausage-and-ricotta filling. Fill a big pan with the stuffed paccheri paccheri, drape them with tomato sauce and grated cheese, and bake.

As with other baked pasta ca.s.seroles, you can multiply this recipe many times and make enough schiaffettoni schiaffettoni to feed any size crowd. The individual to feed any size crowd. The individual paccheri paccheri can be stuffed and the big pan (or pans) fully a.s.sembled in advance; bake at the last minute, while your guests are being seated. And best of all, you know everyone will love it. can be stuffed and the big pan (or pans) fully a.s.sembled in advance; bake at the last minute, while your guests are being seated. And best of all, you know everyone will love it.

- 2 pounds sweet Italian sausage sweet Italian sausage (without fennel seeds) (without fennel seeds) - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking dish - 1 medium onion, chopped chopped (about 1 cup) (about 1 cup) - 2 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and sliced cloves, peeled and sliced - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt, plus more for the pasta pot - 1 cup white wine white wine - 1 pound paccheri paccheri - 3 cups fresh whole-milk ricotta fresh whole-milk ricotta, drained (about 1 pounds) - 3 cups freshly grated Grana Padano Grana Padano or or Parmigiano-Reggiano Parmigiano-Reggiano - 2 hard-cooked eggs eggs, peeled and finely chopped - 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 3 cups Tomato Sauce Tomato Sauce RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger; a large pot for cooking the pasta; a 4-quart rectangular baking dish To cook the sausage, remove it from the casings and crumble the meat in a bowl, breaking it into small clumps with your fingers. Pour the olive oil into the skillet, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the onion and garlic. Cook for 5 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent and softened, then scatter the crumbled sausage in the pan. Cook the sausage, stirring and breaking up any clumps, for 15 minutes or so, until the meat juices have all cooked away and it is starting to brown.

Sprinkle over it the teaspoon salt, pour in the wine, and stir well. Raise the heat a bit, bring the wine to a boil, and cook, stirring frequently, until it has all evaporated and the meat is browning in a dry pan. After 30 minutes or so, when all of the sausage is brown and crispy, sc.r.a.pe it into a large bowl and let cool.

Meanwhile, fill the pasta pot with salted water, and heat to a rolling boil. Drop in the paccheri paccheri, stir well, and return the water to a boil. Cook the paccheri paccheri until flexible but still quite until flexible but still quite al dente. al dente. Test doneness by plucking one out of the water and pressing it gently. It must be soft enough that you can squeeze it without snapping the tube, yet firm enough to stay open, without collapsing, while you fill it. When cooked enough, quickly lift out all the Test doneness by plucking one out of the water and pressing it gently. It must be soft enough that you can squeeze it without snapping the tube, yet firm enough to stay open, without collapsing, while you fill it. When cooked enough, quickly lift out all the paccheri paccheri with a spider or strainer, and drain them well in a colander. with a spider or strainer, and drain them well in a colander.

Heat the oven to 400 and brush the baking dish with olive oil.

For the stuffing, dump the drained ricotta into the bowl with the sausage, and stir together, mixing the meat and ricotta well. Stir in 1 cup of the grated grana grana, the chopped hard-cooked eggs, and parsley, until smooth.

Spread a cup of the tomato sauce in the bottom of the baking dish. With a soup spoon, fill the paccheri paccheri one at a time with the sausage-ricotta stuffing. Lay them in the baking dish, close together, in neat rows, filling the pan with one layer of stuffed pasta tubes-if you have more, arrange them in a second layer on top. Spoon and spread the remaining sauce over the one at a time with the sausage-ricotta stuffing. Lay them in the baking dish, close together, in neat rows, filling the pan with one layer of stuffed pasta tubes-if you have more, arrange them in a second layer on top. Spoon and spread the remaining sauce over the paccheri paccheri, and sprinkle the remaining grated cheese on top.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of aluminum foil, arching it above the pasta and pressing it loosely against the sides. Set the dish in the oven, and bake for 45 minutes, then remove the foil, and bake another 15 minutes or so, until the cheese is nicely browned and crusty and the sauce is bubbling.

To serve: lift out as many paccheri paccheri as a wide spatula will comfortably hold, being careful to keep the topping in place, and with the help of another smaller spatula or knife slide each portion onto a warm dinner plate. as a wide spatula will comfortably hold, being careful to keep the topping in place, and with the help of another smaller spatula or knife slide each portion onto a warm dinner plate.

Reggio Calabria SPICY C CALAMARI.

Calamari Piccanti Serves 6 Serves 6 It always pleases me when such a simple recipe can be so good. But every ingredient and every step must be perfect-the calamari, fresh; the olive oil, the best; and the pan must be hot for the quick cooking.

I always prefer to buy whole calamari and clean them myself (you can see how easy it is to do in my book Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen). I also like to leave the skin on the bodies, because it takes on a lovely color when cooked. However, now that squid are frequently sold already cleaned, which is a convenience, the body skin is usually peeled off as well. So, if you like the skin, as I do, ask the fishmonger at your market to leave it on. If that's not possible, don't worry: the dish tastes marvelous either way. (And if you are not a fan of squid, you could also prepare scallops, swordfish, or even a fillet of cod using this recipe.) - 2 pounds cleaned calamari calamari, whole bodies (skin on or off) and tentacles - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 6 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and crushed cloves, peeled and crushed - 1 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - teaspoon peperoncino flakes peperoncino flakes, or to taste - 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider Dry the calamari well, and put in a large bowl. Pour over them cup of the olive oil, and add the garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and the peperoncino. Toss to coat and let marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour.

When you are ready to cook the calamari, make the dressing. In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining cup olive oil, the lemon juice, remaining teaspoon salt, and the chopped parsley until emulsified.

Set the skillet over high heat, and when it is very hot, lift the calamari out of the marinade with tongs, let drain briefly, and then lay a batch of them flat in the dry skillet. Sear the calamari, turning several times, until the edges of the bodies and the tentacles are caramelized and crispy, about 2 minutes per batch. If you are using unskinned calamari, the skin will darken to a deep-reddish hue.

As the calamari come out of the skillet, arrange them on a warmed platter. When all of the calamari are done, drizzle the dressing over them, and serve right away.

STEAMED S SWORDFISH B BAGNARA-STYLE.

Pesce Spada all'Uso di Bagnara Serves 6 Serves 6 As I wrote in this chapter's introduction, the fishermen of Bagnara, a beautiful port on the Calabrian coast just north of the Strait of Messina, are renowned for their skill in catching the magnificent swordfish that migrate to this corner of the Tyrrhenian Sea every year. During our recent visit, I was not surprised to learn that the cooks of Bagnara are equally skilled when it comes to cooking pesce spada pesce spada as well. The recipe I share with you here is among the simplest and best I have ever tasted, anywhere. Of course, as always in seafood cookery, the freshness of the fish is the key to success, so be sure to get swordfish at its absolute best. as well. The recipe I share with you here is among the simplest and best I have ever tasted, anywhere. Of course, as always in seafood cookery, the freshness of the fish is the key to success, so be sure to get swordfish at its absolute best.

- 2 pounds swordfish steak swordfish steak, 1 inches thick, with skin - cup extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 lemon lemon, thinly sliced - 5 tablespoons small capers capers, drained - 4 plump garlic garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced cloves, peeled and thinly sliced - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 1 tablespoon dried oregano dried oregano - 1 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A 4-quart baking dish, 10 by 15 inches, or similar size; a roasting pan large enough to hold the baking dish inside it (on the rack); a st.u.r.dy flat metal baking/roasting rack to fit inside the roasting pan Heat the oven to 425.

Cut the swordfish steak into six serving pieces. Pour the olive oil into the baking dish, and scatter in the lemon slices, capers, and garlic. Turn the lemon slices over to coat them with oil, and gather them on one side of the dish. Season the swordfish pieces on both sides with salt, lay them in the dish in one layer, and turn each one over several times to coat it with oil on all the surfaces. Distribute the lemon slices on top.

Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to the boil. Set the baking rack in the big roasting pan, and pour in boiling water to the depth of an inch. Put the dish of swordfish on the rack in the roasting pan, and tent the big pan with a large sheet (or two) of aluminum foil. Arch the sheet over the fish, and press it against the sides of the roasting pan.

Carefully set the covered pan in the oven, and bake just until the swordfish is cooked through, about 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the foil, and lift the baking dish from the pan and out of the oven. Immediately crumble the oregano over the hot swordfish and into the pan juices, then sprinkle the parsley over all. Serve right away, placing each piece of swordfish in a warm shallow bowl and spooning over it some of the cooking juices.

CHICKEN C CATANZARO-STYLE.

Pollo alla Catanzarese Serves 6 Serves 6 In these days when the choice of chicken dishes seems limited to variations of grilled chicken breast, this recipe is a refres.h.i.+ng departure. You b.u.t.terfly (split open) a whole chicken, fill it with a savory stuffing, close the bird up again, and pan-roast it in a cast-iron skillet, creating a wonderful sauce at the same time. It is beautiful and bursting with flavor. And though the chicken is plump, the dish is light and fresh-tasting.

- A 3-pound roasting chicken roasting chicken - cup fine dry bread crumbs bread crumbs - 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley fresh Italian parsley - 3 anchovy fillets anchovy fillets, finely chopped - Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large lemon lemon - teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg nutmeg - teaspoon ground cinnamon cinnamon - cup small capers capers, drained and chopped - 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 6 small onions onions, peeled and halved - 3 tablespoons red-wine vinegar red-wine vinegar RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Toothpicks; a 12-inch cast-iron pan with a domed cover; a wide spatula for flipping the chicken Remove the giblets and any excess fat from the cavity of the chicken. Do not trim away extra skin, because you will need it to close up the stuffed chicken later. With the chicken breast up, slice along the neck cavity with the tip of a boning knife to find and expose the wishbone (or collarbone); loosen it and pull out. Turn the chicken over and, with a chef's knife, cut forcefully from neck to tail along both sides of the backbone, freeing it from the body (and saving it, plus the other bones and giblets, to make stock, of course). Now, with the bird still on its breast, pull apart the split sides and fold them open like a book. With the boning knife, cut under and detach the ribs from the inside flaps of the torso; cut out the breastbone from the meat on both sides of the breast. Turn the chicken over, so the skin side is up, and press down on the now boneless breast to flatten the bird.

To make the stuffing: Put the the bread crumbs in a small bowl and stir in the chopped parsley, anchovies, lemon zest, nutmeg, cinnamon, and 2 tablespoons of capers. Drizzle over it 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and toss all with a fork until the crumbs are evenly seasoned and moistened with oil.

Season the chicken all over with the salt. Lay it skin side down, spread open the body flaps (the legs and wings will be underneath them), spoon about two-thirds of the crumb stuffing into the center, and press it flat. Fold the flaps of torso closed, and bring them together in a tight seam, closing the gap where the backbone had been. This will bring the wings and legs together, too. To keep this package closed, draw loose skin from one side over the other side, at the neck and tail end of the seam, and pin them in place with toothpicks (wings will now be on top, and the stuffing will be enclosed).

Next, carefully turn the chicken over, breast-skin side up. Starting at the neck, work your fingers under the skin, loosening it from the meat without tearing the skin or pulling it off the breast. Push the remaining crumb stuffing into this pocket, then rub the outside of the skin to spread and smooth the stuffing over the breast meat (under the skin). With toothpicks, pin the skin closed at the neck end and anyplace where the skin has come loose and the stuffing can leak out.

Set the cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat for a minute or two. When it's hot, pour in the remaining olive oil, and carefully lay in the chicken breast side up. Cover the pan, and let the chicken cook and brown on the seam side, about 5 minutes. With a wide spatula and tongs, carefully lift and flip the chicken to cook breast side down. Replace the cover, and let it brown on that side for 5 minutes more.

Turn the chicken over again (breast side up), and scatter the onions all around the bird, turning them on the pan bottom to coat them in oil. Put the cover back on, lower the heat, and cook slowly for about 40 minutes, until the onions are tender and the chicken has released all its fats and juices. Tilt the skillet, spoon off excess fat, and carefully flip the chicken once more-it should be breast down now. Raise the heat a bit, scatter in the remaining capers, and cook uncovered about 4 minutes, to brown the breast again.

Turn the chicken for the last time, so it is breast up, pour in the lemon juice and vinegar, swirl them in the pan, and bring to a simmer. Put on the cover, lower the heat to maintain the simmer, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until the chicken is very tender, the onions are soft and caramelized, and the juices have concentrated.

Carefully lift out the chicken and slide it onto a cutting board. Let the bird rest for 5 to 10 minutes, remove the toothpicks, and cut it into serving pieces. Spoon onions and pan sauce from the warm skillet over each portion of chicken, and serve.

PORK C CHOPS S SHEPHERD-STYLE.

Maiale all'Uso dei Pastori Serves 6 Serves 6 Juicy pork chops, smothered with slowly cooked onions and topped with melted cheese, are certain to make mouths water. You can prepare these in advance-browning the chops and cooking the onions-then complete the skillet cooking and baking as your guests are seated. Thick chops from the pork loin are my favorite, and the ones used in the recipe. Leaner rib chops will work as well but should be cooked a few minutes less.

- 6 bone-in pork loin chops pork loin chops, about 1 inch thick, 6 to 8 ounces each - 2 teaspoons kosher salt kosher salt - cup all-purpose flour all-purpose flour, for dredging - 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 4 medium onions onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 4 cups) - 3 plump garlic garlic cloves, sliced cloves, sliced - 6-ounce chunk provola provola or or provolone provolone, preferably imported from Italy - 1 cup white wine white wine - cup grated pecorino RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A heavy-bottomed ovenproof skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or wider Trim excess fat from the pork chops, leaving only a thin layer on the edges. Season both sides of the chops with 1 teaspoon of the salt. Spread the flour on a plate, and dredge the chops, lightly coating both sides.

Meanwhile, pour the olive oil in the skillet, and set it over medium heat. Shake excess flour from the chops, and lay them all in the skillet in one layer (depending on the size of your pan, you may have to snuggle them in). Gently brown the pork on the first side, about 4 minutes; turn the chops over, and brown the second side, another 4 minutes. Remove the chops to a plate and keep warm.

Scatter the onions and garlic in the skillet, stir them around the pan, season with the remaining salt, and cover. Cook the onions slowly, stirring occasionally, and sc.r.a.ping the pan bottom to mix the crusty browned bits with the onion juices.

Meanwhile, if you'll be finis.h.i.+ng the dish right away, set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat it to 400. Slice the provola in 6 or more thick slices about the size of the pork chops.

After the onions have cooked for 15 minutes or so, and are quite tender and colored with the pan sc.r.a.pings, uncover, and push them all to one side of the skillet. Lay the pork chops back in, one at a time, spooning a layer of soft onions on the top of each chop. When they're all in the pan, lay the provola slices over the onions.

Raise the heat, and when the meat is sizzling again, pour the wine into the skillet (in the s.p.a.ces between the chops, not over them). Swirl the pan so the wine flows all through it, and bring to a boil. Sprinkle about a tablespoon of pecorino on each chop, then carefully move the skillet from the stove to the oven.

Bake the chops for 10 minutes or so, until the cheese toppings are bubbly and crusty. Carefully remove the skillet from the oven, and let the chops rest in it for a few minutes. To serve, lift out each chop with a spatula, keeping the cheese topping intact, set it on a dinner plate, and spoon some of the skillet juices and onions around it.

STUFFED F FIGS S SIBARI-STYLE.

Fichi Ripieni alla Sibarita Makes about 2 dozen, serving 6 to 8 Makes about 2 dozen, serving 6 to 8 Throughout southern Italy, almond-stuffed figs are a traditional holiday treat, made in every household to offer visiting family and friends. Makes sense for a region that historically had little wealth, and where figs and almonds were abundant and always stored for winter use. Figs and almonds are also a naturally delicious pairing, in my opinion. Though it is not fancy, a dried fig with a single toasted almond tucked into it is transformed into a delicious sweet.

In Calabria, though, the preparation of stuffed figs, fichi ripieni fichi ripieni, is not always so simple. The region's figs are prized for their excellence, both fresh and dried. And especially in the northern province of Calabria-in the area of Sibari, where figs grow best-they're stuffed in all sorts of ways, with different nuts, spices, sweetenings, cocoa, or candied fruits. All of these flavorful ingredients are mixed together to make the stuffing for fichi ripieni alla Sibarita fichi ripieni alla Sibarita, figs stuffed Sibari-style, considered one of Calabria's signature dishes. There are many versions of this cla.s.sic. In most, the figs are baked after stuffing, usually with saba saba (cooked grape must) or other syrup. Sometimes the figs are then packed in some preserving medium for long storage and more flavor, such as (cooked grape must) or other syrup. Sometimes the figs are then packed in some preserving medium for long storage and more flavor, such as saba saba, spiced sugar, or sweetened liquor. My version is really a dessert, best served right away. The stuffed figs are baked in a pool of pomegranate and lemon juice, which concentrates in the oven into a luscious thick syrup that I drizzle over the warm figs. It's a great dessert anytime of year, but particularly during the holidays it has the spirit of an old Italian custom.

- 1 cup pomegranate juice pomegranate juice - Juice of 1 large lemon lemon, freshly squeezed (about 3 tablespoons) - cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar sugar - 1 cup chopped toasted almonds almonds - 1 cup chopped toasted walnut halves walnut halves - cup honey honey - cup cocoa powder cocoa powder - teaspoon ground cinnamon cinnamon - teaspoon ground cloves cloves - 1 pound whole dried figs dried figs RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: Oval or rectangular 3-quart-capacity baking dish or shallow ca.s.serole Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven, and heat to 350. Pour the pomegranate juice, lemon juice, and cup sugar into the baking dish, and whisk together until the sugar dissolves. For the stuffing, put the chopped nuts in a bowl, pour in the honey, and stir well so all the nuts are coated. Sprinkle on the cocoa powder, cinnamon, cloves, and the last tablespoon sugar; stir and toss until thoroughly distributed.

With a sharp knife, slice into each fig from top to bottom-following the line of the stem-splitting it but leaving the split halves still attached. Fold open each fig like a book, exposing the cut surfaces, and top each half with a spoonful of the nut stuffing. Press the stuffing into the fruit interior, so it sticks and stays, then place the open fig in the baking dish, with the stuffing on top, resting in the juice on the bottom. Stuff all the figs this way, and arrange them in the dish.

Tent the baking dish with a sheet of aluminum foil, arching it so it doesn't touch the stuffing, and pressing it against the sides. Bake the figs for 20 minutes, until the juice is bubbling and the figs are softened, then remove the foil, and bake another 35 to 40 minutes, basting the figs two or three times with the juice, until the figs are caramelized and tender and the juice has reduced to a syrup. Let the figs cool in the baking dish for at least 5 minutes before serving warm, or leave them to serve later at room temperature. Put three or four figs for each serving on a dessert plate or in a bowl, and drizzle some of the pan syrup over them.

ALMOND B BISCOTTINI.

Biscottini alle Mandorle Makes about 40 small biscotti Makes about 40 small biscotti Every region of Italy has its own version of biscotti, and these plain and simple twice-baked cookies from Calabria are great for the home baker. They are tasty and crumbly, and I like the accent of the toasted sliced almonds. When you cut the logs of dough after the first baking, you'll likely have crumbs and some broken pieces, but don't throw them away. Save them to sprinkle over ice cream or poached fruit, or to fold into a zabaglione zabaglione-they add crunch and a sweet taste to all kinds of desserts.

- 2 cups all-purpose flour all-purpose flour - 1 teaspoons baking powder baking powder - A big pinch kosher salt kosher salt - 2 large eggs eggs - cup sugar sugar - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon (about 2 teaspoons) (about 2 teaspoons) - teaspoon pure vanilla extract pure vanilla extract - 2 tablespoons and 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 1 cup toasted sliced almonds almonds (3 ounces) (3 ounces) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A standing electric mixer with paddle attachment; a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper; wire cooling racks; a sharp, serrated knife For the cookie dough: Sift or stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Crack the eggs into the mixer bowl, and add the sugar. Start the mixer on low speed, and beat until blended. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl, increase to medium speed, and beat for a couple of minutes, until the sugar and eggs are pale yellow and fluffy; beat in the lemon zest and vanilla.

Stop the mixer, sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl, and dump in the flour mixture all at once. Mix on low speed to form a crumbly dough. Increase to medium speed, drizzle in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, and beat until the dough forms a ball. Stop the machine, spill in the sliced almonds, and mix on low for just a few seconds, to incorporate the nuts.

On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough into two pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 2 inches thick and 12 inches long. Arrange the logs on the parchment-lined baking sheet, and refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile (or later, when you're ready to bake the cookies), arrange a rack in the center of the oven, and heat to 350. Bake the sheet of chilled logs for about 40 minutes, until the dough is lightly colored and set, rotating the sheet front to back during baking to ensure even cooking. With a long metal spatula, transfer the logs to wire racks, and let them cool for about 30 minutes.

For the second baking, have the oven at 350. Slice the dough logs on a cutting board with the serrated knife, cutting diagonally to form oval biscotti about inch thick. Lay the cookies flat in rows on the baking sheet (lined with the same parchment paper), and set it in the oven.

Bake the biscotti for 7 minutes, remove the pan, and quickly flip them over. Return the sheet to the oven (rotated back to front), and bake another 7 minutes or so, until the cookies are crisp, crunchy, and golden. Transfer them to wire racks, and let them cool completely before serving. Store biscotti in an airtight container lined with wax paper; they will keep 2 to 3 weeks.

SESAME C CANDY.

Dolcetto di Sesamo Makes about 5 dozen pieces Makes about 5 dozen pieces Here's another sweet that, like figs stuffed with almonds, is usually made around the holidays. It is simply a caramel syrup with sesame seeds stirred in, poured onto a counter to cool in a thin layer, and cut into bite-sized candies. A smooth, nonporous surface like marble, granite, or stainless steel is best for the cooling; avoid porous wooden surfaces or Formica.

- 1 cups sesame seeds sesame seeds (about 6 ounces) (about 6 ounces) - Scant 1 cup sugar sugar - 3 tablespoons honey honey - 2 teaspoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter - Extra-virgin olive oil - cup toasted slivered almonds almonds - Finely grated zest of 1 lemon lemon - Finely grated zest of 1 orange orange - 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon cinnamon RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A rimmed baking sheet; a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan; pastry brush and st.u.r.dy metal spatula; parchment or wax paper Preheat oven to 350. Spread the sesame seeds on a rimmed baking sheet, and place it in the oven. Toast the seeds until light golden, shaking them on the baking sheet occasionally, about 8 minutes. Let the seeds cool on the sheet.

Put the sugar, honey, b.u.t.ter, and 2 teaspoons water in the saucepan, and set it over medium-low heat. Stir with a wooden spoon frequently as the b.u.t.ter melts and the sugar dissolves and the syrup comes to a boil. Simmer until the syrup is a deep-caramel color, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, brush a nonporous work surface (such as granite or stainless steel) with olive oil; coat the metal spatula with olive oil as well. When the caramel is done, turn off the heat, and stir in the sesame seeds, almonds, citrus zests, and cinnamon. Pour (and sc.r.a.pe) the molten candy from the pan onto the work surface, and quickly spread it into an even rectangular layer, about inch thick. Allow it to cool and firm up for a minute or two, to firm up but not harden.

With a serrated knife and a straight edge, slice the sheet of candy into 1-inch strips. Then cut diagonal slices 1 inch apart. Divide the strips into diamond-shaped pieces. With a metal spatula separate the pieces, and arrange them in a single layer, not touching, on trays lined with parchment or wax paper, and let them harden completely. Store them in an airtight container with parchment or wax paper between the layers.

Cathedral of Gerace in the province of Reggio Calabria

In the busy city of Reggio Calabria Reggio Calabria, look for the Bronzi di Riace at the National Museum. The piercing eyes of these ancient Greeks make you feel there is a soul within. These statues were found off the coast and are amazingly well preserved. Of great interest also is the sculpture bust of a Philosopher of Porticello Philosopher of Porticello, a rare example of Greek portraiture. The sculptor has captured his subject's personality in stone. The cathedral in Gerace is the subject of a legend that gold was hidden inside the columns of the church. There have been thefts throughout the years, and it is said that people have even tried to steal the columns themselves.Cir is a town with many beaches and daytime activities. Carafa Castle is well restored, and you can bask in the sun on the Punta dell'Alice, an old Roman settlement with many artifacts, in particular the Saracen Markets, where a golden row of antique arches are reflected like honeycombs in the adjacent sea. A short distance outside the city are the ruins of a Greek temple dedicated to Apollo, and as you move away from the coast you'll find the town of is a town with many beaches and daytime activities. Carafa Castle is well restored, and you can bask in the sun on the Punta dell'Alice, an old Roman settlement with many artifacts, in particular the Saracen Markets, where a golden row of antique arches are reflected like honeycombs in the adjacent sea. A short distance outside the city are the ruins of a Greek temple dedicated to Apollo, and as you move away from the coast you'll find the town of Crucoli Crucoli, where lovely textiles are made and baskets are woven. Visiting Crucoli is really getting into the heart of Calabria.Isola Capo Rizzuto is a charming town with a wonderful little island just off the coast that is connected to the mainland at low tide. You can wander through the meandering streets to reach the antique Castello. is a charming town with a wonderful little island just off the coast that is connected to the mainland at low tide. You can wander through the meandering streets to reach the antique Castello.Tropea, famous for its sweet red onions, also has one of Calabria's best beaches-the Piazza Vittorio Veneto is the center of summer life in Tropea. The cafes are teeming with chic vacationers. Located in the center of town is the cathedral, which dates back to Norman times; of note, you'll find the Madonna del Popolo Madonna del Popolo in the Galluppi family chapel and the so-called Black Crucifix. A symbol of the town is the Church of Santa Maria dell'Isola, located on a rock that juts out into the sea. It is home to a Benedictine Sanctuary. This is a lovely place to bring a picnic lunch and admire the yellow stone church that is so beautiful against the glimmering blue sea. in the Galluppi family chapel and the so-called Black Crucifix. A symbol of the town is the Church of Santa Maria dell'Isola, located on a rock that juts out into the sea. It is home to a Benedictine Sanctuary. This is a lovely place to bring a picnic lunch and admire the yellow stone church that is so beautiful against the glimmering blue sea.Sibari, once the Greek town of Sybaris and known for great luxury, is worth a visit for its umbrella-pine-tree-lined, soft-sand sh.o.r.es. The immense archaeological site of ancient Sybaris provided many of the artifacts in the Sibartide National Archaeological Museum. Sibari is not far from the Pollini National Park, one of Italy's more recently founded parks, established in 1993 to protect the Bosnian pines of the area. The dense nature of the area has sheltered the towns within, which maintain the ancient culture and language of the Albanian settlers who migrated here in the sixteenth century.-TANYA

Costa Smeralda

I FIRST SET FOOT ON SARDEGNA, THE SECOND-LARGEST ISLAND IN FIRST SET FOOT ON SARDEGNA, THE SECOND-LARGEST ISLAND IN the Mediterranean, in 1978, when my son, Joseph, was ten, and Tanya six. We went there as part of our regular three-week vacation in Italy, and also to do some research in what was then unknown territory. The wines of Sardegna were just beginning to come to the American sh.o.r.es; I had read about the Mediterranean, in 1978, when my son, Joseph, was ten, and Tanya six. We went there as part of our regular three-week vacation in Italy, and also to do some research in what was then unknown territory. The wines of Sardegna were just beginning to come to the American sh.o.r.es; I had read about bottarga bottarga, the salted dry mullet roe, and about malloreddus malloreddus, the local semolina gnocchi, and I was curious and eager to experience them all.

We landed in Olbia and rented a car; our first stop was Porto Cervo. There we rested for a few days, to enjoy the sea and the local maritime cuisine, especially the spiny lobster. You'll find my Roast Lobster with Bread Crumb Topping-Aragosta Arrosta, based on that delectable dish. In the Porto Cervo restaurant, where we sat facing the dock with its azure waters and glistening yachts, another new taste experience was saffron malloreddus malloreddus with a sausage sauce. I've had it many times since that trip, and each time I am reminded of that first unforgettable taste. with a sausage sauce. I've had it many times since that trip, and each time I am reminded of that first unforgettable taste.

But to truly know Sardinia, one needs to travel inland as well. So we soon moved on and drove to Nuoro, in the heart of the mountains, where the culture I had read about came alive. Sardinian cooking is mostly the rustic fare of the hills and mountains. It is hearth-and-spit cooking-roasted meats, skewered suckling pig, sausages, whole lambs and goats roasted on poles surrounded with aromatic olives, rosemary, juniper, and myrtle branches for flavoring. Inland Sardinia is a land of shepherds; the earliest evidence of sheep-rearing dates back to the pre-nuragic era, 1800 B.C. B.C. And it is still thriving today, more than in any other region of Italy. The impressive And it is still thriving today, more than in any other region of Italy. The impressive nuraghi nuraghi, stone-built structures from that period, can still be found in the landscape today. It is said that the shepherds of that time used these structures to watch over their flocks in the distance.

It follows that there is an abundance of cheese in Sardegna. Sweet sheep's-milk cheeses, Fior Sardo and Pecorino Sardo, are eaten either fresh or aged and used in cooking, as are caciocavallo and provolone. One of my favorite preparations is their Provolone Turnovers-Pardulas. Good milk produces great cream, and several years later, when I returned to Sardegna with Mario, I had this stupendously simple dessert of semolina cooked in cream with myrtle sauce (see Semolina Pudding with Blueberry Sauce-Mazzafrissa. Even simpler and just as delightful was a slice of fresh sheep's ricotta with some bittersweet miele di corbezzolo miele di corbezzolo, honey from the strawberry-tree flower.

In Oliena, near Nuoro, we stayed at a most charming country inn, Su Cologone, set in the valley of Supramonte, amid olive trees and grapevines. The restaurant of the same name offers lots of local products and a traditional cuisine. Here I had for the first time Flatbread Lasagna, an unusual cauliflower dish, and a bread-and-cabbage ca.s.serole with a soup variation using similar ingredients. All of these inexpensive country dishes I have brought back with me and translated for you, so you can enjoy making them for friends and family in your own kitchen.

It was summertime, and eggplants were everywhere. I've always a.s.sociated Sicily with eggplants, but Sardegna seems to be a close second. At one meal we had Baked Eggplant in Tomato Sauce, and the next evening we had Baked Eggplant with Onions and Fresh Tomatoes. I have returned several times now to Su Cologone to taste and retaste the local specialties and flavors. On one subsequent visit with Mario, I had my first encounter with fregola fregola, a homemade pasta that is shaped into small b.a.l.l.s reminiscent of peppercorns. The dish I particularly liked and took notes on so I could share it with you was Baked Fregola Fregola Ca.s.serole. Ca.s.serole.

On my most recent trip to Sardegna, in June 2008, Mario had made all the arrangements with his Sardinian friend and a.s.sociate Franco Azzara. Franco met us at the Olbia airport, and our first stop was his house, between Olbia and Santa Teresa di Gallura, to meet the family and have an espresso with a side of liquore di mirto liquore di mirto, myrtle liquor made by his wife. We then all proceeded to Alghero, on the western sh.o.r.e, to enjoy a lobster alla Catalana. alla Catalana.

There is a very Spanish feel and flavor to Alghero, since it was a Catalan colony for many years. And in this refres.h.i.+ng spiny-lobster salad with tomatoes and celery, dressed with boiled eggs, the name and the flavor are a blend of Catalan and Sardinian. But I must give credit where it is due, and the recipe I give you blends the traditional dish with Franco's rendition. As to the delicious Spaghetti with Cold Tomato-Mint Sauce-Spaghetti al Sugo Freddo, it was Franco who let me in on the secrets of this old family recipe.

The coast south of Alghero, Costa Verde, is less well known than the Costa Smeralda, north of Olbia, where the rich and famous have their summer residences, but it is just as beautiful. It is lined with magnificent high sand dunes, some of them covered with the local flowers and fauna, which lead into the emerald-green waters. Franco took us west of Guspini to the Hotel Le Dune in the location called Piscinas not far from Oristano. There, in a solitary setting, stands a building dating back to the eighth century, which is now a national monument and has twenty-six rooms open to guests. Completely submerged in nature, the setting is of peace, and the cuisine of the sea. I must add that the journey over the rough roads is not easy, but it is worth the trip.

Above left: provolone cheese drying; above right and below: local workers at the Pintapane bakery in Oliena making pane carasau pane carasau On the way back from Oristano we headed toward Oliena, where I wanted to see how the pane carasau pane carasau and its thinner version, called and its thinner version, called carta di musica carta di musica, were made. There we met with the gallant, ever-so-Sardinian Anna Rosa Fancello, who took us to see her sister-in-law, who makes the pane carasau pane carasau by hand. This typical unleavened crispy thin disk, used by shepherds on their long trips to pasture, is the quintessential Sardinian bread, eaten with cheese and cold cuts as well as used in soups. I was amazed at the dexterity of the whirling hands as Anna Rosa's sister shaped the by hand. This typical unleavened crispy thin disk, used by shepherds on their long trips to pasture, is the quintessential Sardinian bread, eaten with cheese and cold cuts as well as used in soups. I was amazed at the dexterity of the whirling hands as Anna Rosa's sister shaped the pane carasau pane carasau, and it was fascinating to hear from both sisters about the local traditions and the culture of this bread. Today, the bread is mostly made in small, somewhat automated family shops, as we found in the Pintapane bakery, run by Piero of the Corrias family in Oliena.

Being isolated in the middle of the Mediterranean has made Sardinia the most idiosyncratic of Italian regions. The island's history has been shaped as much by foreigners, Spaniards in particular, as by other Italians.

Just as the food culture is unique in Sardegna, influenced by the different occupations through the ages, so is the wine culture. The varietals unique to Sardegna are the Gir, Cannonau, Nuragus, Monica, and the Vernaccia di Oristano. There are also various clones of the typical Mediterranean Moscato and Malvasia grapes, and there is a definite Mediterranean character and taste to the wine of Sardinia. Sella & Mosca is one of the first producers to capitalize on these Sardinian varieties and to bring them to America and the rest of the world. With new technology, Sardinia is now producing delicious world-cla.s.s wines.

On that trip back to Olbia from Oliena, having eaten pane carasau pane carasau, we needed some wine to wash it all down, and we went to visit the unique winery Pedra Majore, run by the Isoni di Monti brothers and their families. The winery was situated on the most amazing granite formations on top of a hill. One thing that is so spectacular about traveling through Sardinia is that enormous granite rock formations will appear when you least expect them, especially around the coast, and they look like majestic sculptures-as if they had been arranged by a curator for your pleasure. The ma.s.sive stones, weathered through time, take on the appearances of animals, people, and other figures.

Here in this winery, one primary rock looked like a sitting dog, surrounded by a cl.u.s.ter of beveled rocks that formed an enclosed s.p.a.ce. That s.p.a.ce, we soon realized, was a welcoming kitchen where kid, capretto capretto, was being roasted on a spit, and Carabineros, giant red shrimp, were on a hot griddle alongside. Soon we were happily eating and sipping their delicious white, I Graniti, Vermentino di Gallura.

PROVOLONE T TURNOVERS.

Pardulas Makes about a dozen Makes about a dozen If you are traveling in Sardinia, this is the dish to have. And if you want a taste of Sardinia at home, this is the dish to make. Pardulas resemble large ravioli, stuffed with sliced provolone. They're not cooked like pasta, though, but fried until crisp and oozing melted cheese. They're like grilled cheese sandwiches-kids love them. In fact, everybody does.

Pardulas make a great appetizer flanked by some tossed salad or sliced tomatoes. For a more elaborate and substantial turnover, add some blanched asparagus or broccoli, or prosciutto or ham, to the stuffing; just cut down a bit on the cheese to make room. And if you make them half-sized, they're a terrific hors d'oeuvre to pa.s.s at a c.o.c.ktail party. They are traditionally served drizzled with honey but are delicious just fried and plain.

For convenience, make and fill pardulas pardulas in advance and fry them when your guests arrive. If necessary, you can fry them up to 30 minutes ahead of time and keep them warm in the oven. in advance and fry them when your guests arrive. If necessary, you can fry them up to 30 minutes ahead of time and keep them warm in the oven.

- 3 cups durum-wheat flour durum-wheat flour - teaspoon kosher salt kosher salt - 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil extra-virgin olive oil - 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter b.u.t.ter, cut in small chunks, at room temperature - 9 ounces provolone provolone, in 12 thin slices - Vegetable oil for frying for frying - Honey for drizzling (optional) for drizzling (optional) RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT: A food processor; a 3-inch round cookie cutter; a heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger Put the flour, salt, olive oil, and b.u.t.ter chunks in the food-processor bowl. Process until the fat has been incorporated and the mixture has a sandy texture. With the processor running, pour 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons water through the feed tube, and process just until a dough forms and gathers on the blade and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough is too sticky, add another tablespoon or two of flour; if too dry, add 2 tablespoons water. Process briefly, until the dough comes together, turn it out on a lightly floured surface, and knead by hand a few times, until it's smooth and soft. Press the dough into a disk, wrap it well in plastic wrap, and let it rest at room temperature for at least hour.